Idk as id even worry about going up but maybe just put a cheap 90* elbow facing rearward and see what that does. If you think about its location, unless you are like some ppl, youll never go that deep to need to go up any further.

As for noise, like oldschool exhaust, a simple downturn or elbow can change sound and direction.

Big question I have, is there is the two plenums up top there but is there a belt exhaust still down real low like the 900 s (i own) or the xp1k (friends) seems its great the intakes are high but water still went in his belt exhaust bc of where it sits.


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Here is the commercial product I had seen before...
https://www.utvinc.com/utv-inc-polaris-rzr-rs1-aluminum-intake-cvt-air-scoop/
That is frankly butt ugly and probably rings like a cowbell.
I'm headed for home depot plumbing dept tomorrow. Thinking of using a 90 degree pvc fitting, reducing 4 to 3 inch, so it will have good flow and a large opening for some kind of grate. I'll try to post photos if anything turns out worthy.

 

Probly just start w the 90 just to make sure youre going to like it, that way you dont spend all the extra money. Always good to test fit n check etc first. I got lots of odds and ends ive bought and ended up not using etc.

Are you able to get any pics of the belt exhaust? I been wondering about snorkels incase i end up buyin an rs1


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Probly just start w the 90 just to make sure youre going to like it, that way you dont spend all the extra money. Always good to test fit n check etc first. I got lots of odds and ends ive bought and ended up not using etc.

Are you able to get any pics of the belt exhaust? I been wondering about snorkels incase i end up buyin an rs1

 

Yes, good plan, I'll do the basic 90 with screen and see how it works. Heading out today to buy a few parts. And, yea I always end up with stuff that doesn't work so I'll keep receipt and haul it all back after that.
I will get a look at the belt air outlet today too, and describe or photo it for you.

 

Hello all. The cvt exit is my issue. looking for a way to snorkel that. I've been on two rides and had to cross a creek and got water in there both times. the water wasnt that deep either.

Now, I also understand that the cvt exit is blowing where it is to keep things cooler. So, if I can figure out how to snorkel, is it going to start having heat issues?

attached is a diagram. need to fit a round pipe on a square hole to snorkel.

 

I saw this on my XP and thought it was pretty stupid to have all the ducting 4ft up except leave this one about 2 ft lower. And that little metal grate on the end rattles like a bastard. Is it really necessary to leave it like that for cooling purposes? I too would like to get that up a little higher. I generally avoid mud and water but occasionally have to cross a stream and that thing sits pretty low.

 

Helmet maybe if your not using one ?

 

Ok, thanks for the diagram, I found the cvt air outlet duct. It is 32 to 34 inches off the ground, facing forward toward the firewall, just behind the cvt air inlet tube.
Sure looks possible to duct from there if you really need super deep water capacity. The manual says to avoid water deeper than the floorboards. I think when I get that deep I'll back off.
Back in 85 when we started quad riding Honda 250r, we'd do everything and anything with them. I had a couple places where I could cross our local river, if I chose my path carefully, diagonally up stream, then turn and diagonal downstream continuing across. Had to keep the front end up all the while, with front tires floating and one foot on back bar. Great entertainment on a hot day. However, a month later it was time to change out all the bearings that were cooked from having the lube water contaminated and wore out. And of course it took several oil changes to get the water out of the gearbox.
So I'm happy being limited to 13 inch water depth. Been there, wrecked that already.

 

I picked up a bunch of pvc plumbing parts today, and my first pass design is done. I used a reducing 90, it is 4 inch (inner) diameter on on end, and 3 inch on the other end. So it sort of flair real smoothly along the length of the 90 corner. That allowed me to use a bigger screen on the 4 inch end. I'm going to try to post a couple pictures. The ducting is not painted yet, so you'll be able to see it well. Once it's all flat or semi gloss black, it will be much more difficult to see. It might even look good when painted.

I have two concerns with this design. It may draw in water if ridden in the rain, which can happen. Also, even though the grates are very open, and elongated, they may have more resistance than the stock solution. So there is some experimentation to do. Perhaps a shroud added can reduce the water intrusion.

 

Looks like a good start. Id start and run it like that before glueing, painting, etc.


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I'll probably glue it up, I modified each of the three parts of each side anyway, so no returning them. And I need to put on at least one clamp around the roll bar , to hold each side in place. Then I'll run it around, see if it works ok, see if the noise is lower. Then, if everything works right I can paint it.
It would be really fun to send a design to protomold company, or similar, and have a real part produced.

 

subd

 

Yeah or one of the vendors on here make a part based on that and maybe send you one of the first ones made as a way to say thanks. But there again, seems a lot of stuff falls on deaf ears.

Looks good so far, just wonder if it helped the noise. It should since id think the pvc is thicker which would resonate less and the while thing points rearward as well.


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Yeah or one of the vendors on here make a part based on that and maybe send you one of the first ones made as a way to say thanks. But there again, seems a lot of stuff falls on deaf ears.

Looks good so far, just wonder if it helped the noise. It should since id think the pvc is thicker which would resonate less and the while thing points rearward as well.

 

Ok, I zip tied the pvc assemblies together, put the stock clamp on, and took it out for a ride.
First, visibility. Greatly improved! My pano rear view mirror now works great.
Next, sound level. Noticeable improvement. There is still plenty of engine noise, but the resonant rumble that was coming out of that stock plenum is gone.
I've got a slight tweak to the plan now. I'm going to put the actual inlet grates back another four inches with a street 45. This also allows the inlet to tuck in , inside the roll bars, just inside the shock rezzy. So it will have extremely low chance of spray from the trails or tires. Rain could still fall onto the inlet. When I get those parts I will go ahead and glue it up and design mounting features, then paint it. Then you'll see more pics here.
Over time, we'll see if it seems worthwhile enough to 3d model it and get a quote from protomold or similar.
Thanks for the ideas guys!

 

I know one thing , to raise / add on to the cvt exhaust is going to be a real pain.
No room
Square tube
Hard to access it with out serious removal of many parts
?

 

Is the swuare tube soft and pliable like you could make it fit a round pvc


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Just going to plop this right here for you. Took me a while to dig through my feed but I remembered seeing exactly what you are trying to do somewhere before. It is a screenshot, I didn’t want to link to it, I believe you need IG to see it so if you do have IG and want to see the other pictures just search for user sdrmotorsports and dig through his timeline to find when they built this one.

 

Cool! Thanks for posting the picture.

Mine uses just grates, not filters and outerwares because this ductwork feeds the Airbox where there is a giant filter for engine air, and the other duct feeds the cvt cooling which typically is not clean air (but cleaner is better, and no rocks or debris essential, imo).
Decided to call the design good enough for now, glued it up and painted it this morning. Want it on for the weekend.

 

Got any pics of them mounted yet??

 

Vendors : Attention!
Make an aluminum elbow that is rectangular at one end 45 degrees to a 3” id pipe .this would connect the current belt exhaust to a pipe to raise intake height of belt exhaust.
It needs a substantial lip on it to clamp &stop the connections from coming apart and also the longer sides of the rectangle need to be beveled outwards to increase air tightness from the clamp.
The elbow should face up towards the belt side rear shock, as there is room up there for the exhaust to be relocated .
Who ever builds this , will sell a pile !
Sorry if my description is vague , but if you pull off the rear air filter access panel , it becomes quite clear what is required.
The stock pipe flares out and bends towards the muffler , so attaching a round pipe is a poor idea , if not impossible.
A proper design would be a matter of sliding the new piece inside the rubber belt exhaust and clamping it in place ,allowing you to come off that new piece and pipe up towards the open shock area ..
Build it ...some one .
I will make one up soon ,time permitting..but out of steel.
Please chime in with thoughts !

 

Completed intake prototypes, glued up, painted, mounted. Ready for test run.

 

This is a sketch of what is needed to raise the belt exhaust as a connector.

 

We do a lot of custom intake and prefiltration for the CVT. Would like to see if we could help out, but don't have a unit available to us. We have learned that keeping inlet and exhaust size as big as possible is important, just don't want to further reduce flow to an already restricted system. As for raising the exhaust port for the CVT, its supposedly design to create a constant air flow across the header to reduce heat build up under the bed area. That being said we might be able to design a 3" adapter that bolts directly to the stock location, then build our cuffed ducts to the length needed to raise it or terminate it where yo want it.
Willing to work with you if you want, just give us a call so we can discuss it.
Regards,
Mark

 

We do a lot of custom intake and prefiltration for the CVT. Would like to see if we could help out, but don't have a unit available to us. We have learned that keeping inlet and exhaust size as big as possible is important, just don't want to further reduce flow to an already restricted system. As for raising the exhaust port for the CVT, its supposedly design to create a constant air flow across the header to reduce heat build up under the bed area. That being said we might be able to design a 3" adapter that bolts directly to the stock location, then build our cuffed ducts to the length needed to raise it or terminate it where yo want it.

Willing to work with you if you want, just give us a call so we can discuss it.

Regards,

Mark

Id put your location or contact info, that way forum members and even non forum members might contact you for the joint venture and supply an rs1. Just a thought

 

Well Mark,

Since you must be on a full size Pc all the time and your customer base isnt, pls see attached photos showing both a mobile website screen shot and a screen shot of the forum app. Of which you should notice that there are no links to click on, not contact, etc.

So, back to the original but edited:

Id post my contact info incase someone not on desktop and maybe on a mobile device can maybe reach you and work on a joint venture.

I didnt mean to sound smug or anything, just tried to get you more business. Which had there been links or numbers etc, then Id not needed to make a post about contact info.

Not allowing to attach right now, will update when avail.



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First let me just thank you for your service!!

You nailed it, I do not work off of the phone app. Blind in one eye and can't hardly see out of the other, lol. Anyway it's all good, we have been a supporting vendor here for 6 years and I assumed we could be found, my mistake.
Regards,

 

I would think, we need to find a way to use pcv and have the pipe come up higher, then have it turn back down and blow out close to the factory exit. Water would still have to be deeper than the highest point.

Or just bring it up, and install a radiator fan to blow across