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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #1
So I've got my clutching pretty close with my dirt tires on flat ground it pulls HARD at 8300-8400. Throw on the paddles and point it up Thunder and its only pulling 7700-7800 rpm.

Any ideas on how to keep the rpm up with the paddles but not be at 8800 on dirt?
 

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Sand Slinger
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Nope, you will have to change the clutching for the conditions. I clutch mine for paddles and dunes as that is where I ride 90% of the time. The rest is trails and usually don't have the room to run the revs up to high. Sorry


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Discussion Starter #3
I wonder if stagger cut and a little more air pressure would help?
 

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Sand Slinger
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Anything you can do to reduce the load on the motor will help, less load or more hp.


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H

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Ray if the tire set up weights are similar anything that you do to the tires that raises the RPM
will only mean you are getting less traction..less hook..more tire spin will net you more RPM :)
 

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Vendor
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The new Dalton kit makes it easy to adjust for both:
Dalton Industries, Ltd. - ATV Products POLARIS


Thats pretty interesting right there. Idlike to hear from someone who is running and tuning it before I leep though.
On the 900 xp it is a bit of a pain to get to the clutches...It is nice when you can add or subtract a couple grams without removing wheels, shocks, or tearing the clutch apart, etc

Lots of people like fine tuning, ..or even take a trip to very high elevation or sand dunes once in a while.
Some just like Dalton "Quick adjust" because they have 2 very distinctive different sets of tires and like the quick adjust feature.
 

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Sand Slinger
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1,264 Posts
The new Dalton kit makes it easy to adjust for both:
Dalton Industries, Ltd. - ATV Products POLARIS


Thats pretty interesting right there. Idlike to hear from someone who is running and tuning it before I leep though.
On the 900 xp it is a bit of a pain to get to the clutches...It is nice when you can add or subtract a couple grams without removing wheels, shocks, or tearing the clutch apart, etc

Lots of people like fine tuning, ..or even take a trip to very high elevation or sand dunes once in a while.
Some just like Dalton "Quick adjust" because they have 2 very distinctive different sets of tires and like the quick adjust feature.
Could you run down the steps involved in adjusting these weights from start to finish, curious as to the time savings? Thx


Sent by me from my damn phone...
 

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Vendor
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Thats pretty interesting right there. Idlike to hear from someone who is running and tuning it before I leep though.
On the 900 xp it is a bit of a pain to get to the clutches...It is nice when you can add or subtract a couple grams without removing wheels, shocks, or tearing the clutch apart, etc

Lots of people like fine tuning, ..or even take a trip to very high elevation or sand dunes once in a while.
Some just like Dalton "Quick adjust" because they have 2 very distinctive different sets of tires and like the quick adjust feature.
Could you run down the steps involved in adjusting these weights from start to finish, curious as to the time savings? Thx


Sent by me from my damn phone...
There are couple of ways to adjust the weights, there is a tip "rivet" to adjust the "zone" of the base weight (you go by the set up guide for your application), ...and then 3.6 grams of the weight can be adjusted via the "quick adjust" threaded passage.
The quick adjust set screws can be added/subtracted without removing the flyweight from the clutch at all, via the included T-handle allen key. Just turn each weight (one at a time) to the angle you can get at it, and work from there....

You can see in the picture in the link the black plastic cvt cover gets swung out and you do it,.....that's it.

For other weights you need to remove the weights,clutch , etc.....which involves removing other parts and tearing it apart, releasing the spring/cover, etc.

Most often you do not have to call any one certain guy to get your special set up for your tires, etc...because most of the common tested set ups are all withing the set up guide in the instructions.....tires,elevation,terrain,etc.

The kit is adjustable, but set up guidelines are all in the kit within the instruction manual.
There are optional secondary springs etc described on our web page , and when to use them ...it is also all within the instruction guide if you get into the secondary spring later.
 

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Sand Slinger
Joined
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1,264 Posts
On the 900 xp it is a bit of a pain to get to the clutches...It is nice when you can add or subtract a couple grams without removing wheels, shocks, or tearing the clutch apart, etc

Lots of people like fine tuning, ..or even take a trip to very high elevation or sand dunes once in a while.
Some just like Dalton "Quick adjust" because they have 2 very distinctive different sets of tires and like the quick adjust feature.
Could you run down the steps involved in adjusting these weights from start to finish, curious as to the time savings? Thx


Sent by me from my damn phone...
There are couple of ways to adjust the weights, there is a tip "rivet" to adjust the "zone" of the base weight (you go by the set up guide for your application), ...and then 3.6 grams of the weight can be adjusted via the "quick adjust" threaded passage.
The quick adjust set screws can be added/subtracted without removing the flyweight from the clutch at all, via the included T-handle allen key. Just turn each weight (one at a time) to the angle you can get at it, and work from there....

You can see in the picture in the link the black plastic cvt cover gets swung out and you do it,.....that's it.

For other weights you need to remove the weights,clutch , etc.....which involves removing other parts and tearing it apart, releasing the spring/cover, etc.

Most often you do not have to call any one certain guy to get your special set up for your tires, etc...because most of the common tested set ups are all withing the set up guide in the instructions.....tires,elevation,terrain,etc.

The kit is adjustable, but set up guidelines are all in the kit within the instruction manual.
There are optional secondary springs etc described on our web page , and when to use them ...it is also all within the instruction guide if you get into the secondary spring later.
So you still need to remove the belt but how about the face of the primary that holds the spring, do you still need to take the bolts out to relive the spring pressure?


Sent by me from my damn phone...
 

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Vendor
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Could you run down the steps involved in adjusting these weights from start to finish, curious as to the time savings? Thx


Sent by me from my damn phone...
There are couple of ways to adjust the weights, there is a tip "rivet" to adjust the "zone" of the base weight (you go by the set up guide for your application), ...and then 3.6 grams of the weight can be adjusted via the "quick adjust" threaded passage.
The quick adjust set screws can be added/subtracted without removing the flyweight from the clutch at all, via the included T-handle allen key. Just turn each weight (one at a time) to the angle you can get at it, and work from there....

You can see in the picture in the link the black plastic cvt cover gets swung out and you do it,.....that's it.

For other weights you need to remove the weights,clutch , etc.....which involves removing other parts and tearing it apart, releasing the spring/cover, etc.

Most often you do not have to call any one certain guy to get your special set up for your tires, etc...because most of the common tested set ups are all withing the set up guide in the instructions.....tires,elevation,terrain,etc.

The kit is adjustable, but set up guidelines are all in the kit within the instruction manual.
There are optional secondary springs etc described on our web page , and when to use them ...it is also all within the instruction guide if you get into the secondary spring later.
So you still need to remove the belt but how about the face of the primary that holds the spring, do you still need to take the bolts out to relive the spring pressure?


Sent by me from my damn phone...
No, you do not remove the belt or any of the clutch spring cover, etc...just take open the black plastic cover shroud to expose the clutches and reach in there with the t- handle to get at the set screws....you do not diss-assemble clutches or belt at all....

here is the link, look again at the picture:
Dalton Industries, Ltd. - ATV Products POLARIS

you can see the belt is still on there...you do not remove the belt, spring cover, weights, at all.
 
H

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Pretty slick idea..I can't get the website to load on my phone but I'm picturing you add allen set screws into a threaded hole near the heel of the weight? Do you add multiple screws to a single hole depending on what weight you need? And if so how does that affect weight distribution from heel to tip? Or does it just add to the heel basically ? I guess what I'm getting at is what if I only wanted to add weight to the middle of the weight? Does my question make sense? Lol
 

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Vendor
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You got the idea, the website shows it better. You are correct about the threadded passage and good question.
We have had great success in snowmobiles (and some atv models) for years with "quick adjust". Some snowmobilers face the same obstacle....start at 2000, eat lunch at 4000 ft elevation , but plan on being to 8000 ft where there is no hp the same day. With Quick adjust they can flip the hood on the sled and remove a couple grams trailside while they eat lunch to help with the high altitude rpm loss.

On some of our snowmobile versions, and also the RZR turbo ones, it is a full threaded passage to the tip...The screws have pre applied nyloc on the threads, but you can tighten to together and you can keep the set screws back at the heel or wind in farther to the tip.

This is a whole new profile for the 900 xp specifically, on this one it is an aluminum rivet in the tip that is a separate function to get the general zone you will need , and the qyuick adjust threaded is more on the early portion of the weight , but effect the overall shift pattern as per the set up guide. That is why the base weight is more case specific and designed for the vehicle application.....and also why the popular one we always have used (and still do ) in the 800 RZR is not applicable to the 900xp.
 

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Registered
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Anyone looking to use these weights they work! And they work awesome we use them in everything we build. I have used them in 300 hp yamaha snowmobiles with turbo's also our turbo arctic cat race sleds and most recently my turbo rzrs! They are always so quick and easy to tune, get the weight where you want it or make adjustments for elevation changes on an n/a machine in a few seconds with the alley wrench. Always had good luck with these weights and any and all dalton components I highly recommend using them! They are quick and simple to tune with the full length threaded passage its simple to put the weight where you need it, they also offer a tungsten screw set so if you need more mid weight or heel weight the super heavy tungsten inserts can be used.
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #17
Ray if the tire set up weights are similar anything that you do to the tires that raises the RPM
will only mean you are getting less traction..less hook..more tire spin will net you more RPM :)
Rod, I have plenty of traction thats for sure. I think it will tractor up about anything. However, that scares the hell out of me!!!!!!!!!!!! When you get to that slow speed digging your way up a long hill, turning out becomes really tricky.
 
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Yeah you need to get the RPMs back at peak power. Maybe you should just go ahead and turbo it..not need to turn out if you can jump the crest :)
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yeah you need to get the RPMs back at peak power. Maybe you should just go ahead and turbo it..not need to turn out if you can jump the crest :)
Well, that would be the easy, logical fix, but.........I do like to do things the hard way!! :rofl3:
 
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