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Well, thanks for the Rotella compliment. About time you came around to the Rotella way of thinking. ;)
 

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New Gas Truck formula is available now and I'm testing it in my truck, but I used Rotella T4, T5 and T6 for years. Generators, Race Bikes, Tow Rigs... everything. Many years ago Mobile One changed their engine oil formulation and I tested several oils at the time. Rotella was the best option for all my rigs and we put it to work in our racing program. T4 was also factory fill for our KTM race bikes. You might find better oil for a price, but the availability of Rotella and price is undeniable. Read all the reviews of off road guys on Rotella site. Shell Rotella® T4 Triple Protection Diesel Oil
 

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This coming from an Amsoil dealer. Still the same old BS as usual.

If Rotella didn't work as well as Amsoil in our vehicles maybe your post would make sense.

So, are you trying to impeach Rotella? Where is the evidence? LOL I mean real evidence. Not the thousands of Amsoil test comparison advertisements posing as scientific fact.

Polaris PS4 is just as good as Amsoil too. Maybe better.
 

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i hate to admit it but amsoil is the best of what weve seen at the shop here for 28 years now. BUT rotella and a few other are also great oils. to each there own! get out and ride.
 

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I used to own a farm and trucking business. We put 15w-40 Mack truck brand oil in everything from atvs, mowers, cars, pickups, irrigation engines, tractors and heavy trucks. Every machine was strictly maintained. Volume wise we went though 600-700 gallons of oil per year. In 20 years, we never had a single failure due to oil. We did live in Nebraska and the winters get a bit cold so we would use block heaters so that 15w would flow better on cold startup. Rotella is good stuff and I'd have no problem using it. Science and sales often collide with common sense and real world experience.
 

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Anyone try the new Rotella T6 in 15W40 flavor?

I'm liking the New Gas Truck formula fine, but I don't really think it's any better application wise for my gas truck over the T6 5w40. Currently using T6 5w40 in RZR, Generators and everything else, but I plan to use the new T6 15w40 in bikes and Generator for summer heat.

FYI, we did do a test on RZR 800. Swap from Mobile to T4 15w40 and confirmed that it reduced oil burn or blowby enough to justify the swap. No science involved, just daily use over many weeks of long rides. For what it's worth, it was repeatable to confirm results. Moved on to T6 5w40 without much change in the good results. Will likely see that guy using the new T6 15w40 in summer and the 5W40 in winter for plow duty. Higher viscosity for summer use will likely be the plan.

There just isn't anything negative to say about T6 that I know of.
 

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I have used T6 in everything for years, and I'd like to think I've adequate research into it.

T6 is designed for low revving engines? .NOT. That's an unsupportable myth. It's an HDEO because it doesn't meet some of the requirements for auto engine oil. Although in truth I think it does now. Zinc is 1200ppm, and that's the api spec now so... And the rest are usually smaller hurdles.

Usually a friction modifier is adding friction. Like in a manual transmission oil where some sticky is a good thing. Add pacs containing anti-wear is a different thing. Here you'll find zinc as an anti-wear, molly as a super lubricant, various cleaning components, and etc.. Mind you that's an endlessly complex topic.

T6 5w-40 has been my choice, although it does tend to shear down in engine/transmission applications over time. Like in a bike. That's to be expected, for viscosity improvers literally get shredded in transmission applications. Use a group IV oil, change more often, or select another oil with less viscosity range.

My next change in the bike I'll likely move to T6 @ 15W-40 and forego my "one oil for everything" convenience.

For a rzr engine non-turbo I think T6 5W-40 is where it's at. For the turbo's I suggest M1 advanced in 15W-50. Either could use 1oz of rislone zinc additive per qt. And I think engine idle for at least 1 minute pre-shut down is a good thing too for a turbo.

Hopefully this helps. If you want more I've threads out there digging into this in some depth.

atb,
-d
 

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WOW! DAFISH did his homework and big thanks for sharing that info! That pays off if you keep your rigs long term. That's the best way IMO. I notice many people don't keep anything long before moving on to the next latest greatest version. Nothing wrong with that if you got money to burn.

I had some one tell me they never had a single mechanical problem with any rig after owning a dozen machines over 15 years???? He only had two rigs at the time and one was for sale. In this scenario, he didn't keep anything long enough to service it more than once before buying a newer rig. Advice from this guy about maintenance, oil or longevity was completely useless.

I'm not in that group. I keep things long term and many of you do as well. I pay them off and maintain them so they last years while I finance my next toy, tow rig, hauler, tractor or workshop. That program has served me well allowing me to own and play with all my toys and use my equipment for decades. Research = educated decisions on maintenance pays off in a big way. If you gather knowledge from others and do your own research, you are way ahead in every way. That knowledge is power if you apply it properly. Double down and learn how to do your own maintenance and repairs to see the greatest benefits!

My small tractor is nearly 30 years old and works hard all year. My favorite 2dr gas tow rig is 23yrs old and tows RZR 1,000 miles one way often. 2001 KTM race bike endured many race wins and losses through 2008 and still capable of winning races today, but I'm not:) Ride for fun now. Many more I wont bore you with.

All of them survived without major mechanical issues with one thing in common. They get serviced frequently with the best fluids, filters and grease. I use them, but don't abuse them. I also enjoy maintaining them. Lot of satisfaction knowing maintenance and repairs are done the right way and less worries of a failure when you push it. You know you did it right is confidence you can't buy!

Rotella has a great reputation in the powersports crowd. There are other brands that do as well. Pick a good quality fluid and change it often. It helps if you maintain a maintenance log for each rig. You can't go wrong doing that for anything you own or make payments on.

I like the advice for Turbos, run them a little before shut down. Cool that turbo so oil doesn't get cooked when you shut it down after a hard pull. I used to make a short run down a road or across a field on my race bike after a hard long pace. Kept me from passing out from heat exhaustion, kinda like that turbo. It works!
 

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I have used T6 in everything for years, and I'd like to think I've adequate research into it.

T6 is designed for low revving engines? .NOT. That's an unsupportable myth. It's an HDEO because it doesn't meet some of the requirements for auto engine oil. Although in truth I think it does now. Zinc is 1200ppm, and that's the api spec now so... And the rest are usually smaller hurdles.

Usually a friction modifier is adding friction. Like in a manual transmission oil where some sticky is a good thing. Add pacs containing anti-wear is a different thing. Here you'll find zinc as an anti-wear, molly as a super lubricant, various cleaning components, and etc.. Mind you that's an endlessly complex topic.

T6 5w-40 has been my choice, although it does tend to shear down in engine/transmission applications over time. Like in a bike. That's to be expected, for viscosity improvers literally get shredded in transmission applications. Use a group IV oil, change more often, or select another oil with less viscosity range.

My next change in the bike I'll likely move to T6 @ 15W-40 and forego my "one oil for everything" convenience.

For a rzr engine non-turbo I think T6 5W-40 is where it's at. For the turbo's I suggest M1 advanced in 15W-50. Either could use 1oz of rislone zinc additive per qt. And I think engine idle for at least 1 minute pre-shut down is a good thing too for a turbo.

Hopefully this helps. If you want more I've threads out there digging into this in some depth.

atb,
-d
Hey DaFish, Which Rislone product are you referring to, the hyper lube zddp supl
 
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