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@SuperATV ...I'm working on a buddy of mine's rzr. He's got a 2017 RZR XP 1000 Metallic. He bought it used this year. The front diff started leaking and he thinks he hears a noise coming from it when engaged (even after filling diff fluid to recommended level). I was looking at rebuilding it...BUT...notice we couldn't upgrade the sprague or armature plate. I didn't want to take it all apart and not upgrade somethings while its off the rzr.

The model number off the sticker located directly on top of the diff is 1333790. The stock gearcase/diff model number from Polaris website for this year model RZR is 1334178. Does this mean someone replaced the diff with something else or just something Polaris does (which is why you post the picture on your website to check the top of the diff for model number) ???

I can match the diff model # to a complete SuperAtv diff. My ultimate question....do those come with the upgraded sprague and armature plates?

Can you post some photos of the inside of one of these bad boys !!???

https://www.superatv.com/polaris-rzr-complete-differential
 

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Mid production 2017’s got a different diff, it’s essentially a turbo diff with output hubs for the smaller 1K axles, my 2017 XP4 had this diff. I had my output hubs warrantied and it was a PIA because the vin and parts diagrams didn’t reflect the 1333790 diff but it’s the number that was on mine.
 

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@SuperATV ...I'm working on a buddy of mine's rzr. He's got a 2017 RZR XP 1000 Metallic. He bought it used this year. The front diff started leaking and he thinks he hears a noise coming from it when engaged (even after filling diff fluid to recommended level). I was looking at rebuilding it...BUT...notice we couldn't upgrade the sprague or armature plate. I didn't want to take it all apart and not upgrade somethings while its off the rzr.

The model number off the sticker located directly on top of the diff is 1333790. The stock gearcase/diff model number from Polaris website for this year model RZR is 1334178. Does this mean someone replaced the diff with something else or just something Polaris does (which is why you post the picture on your website to check the top of the diff for model number) ???

I can match the diff model # to a complete SuperAtv diff. My ultimate question....do those come with the upgraded sprague and armature plates?

Can you post some photos of the inside of one of these bad boys !!???

https://www.superatv.com/polaris-rzr-complete-differential
Yep! The sprague is definitely an upgrade from stock. The armature isn't anything crazy. Supposedly an upgrade from stock, but looks similar.
The inside maintains the OEM dimensions for running OEM parts or other aftermarket parts if you choose, but the case is much thicker and nicer.

 

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Has anyone had an issue with the front differential engaging when you get up to speed? Without the AWD switched on. It feels like the front end kicks in once I get it up to say 15-20 MPH and will also engage unexpectedly if the rear tires are spinning.
 

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Has anyone had an issue with the front differential engaging when you get up to speed? Without the AWD switched on. It feels like the front end kicks in once I get it up to say 15-20 MPH and will also engage unexpectedly if the rear tires are spinning.
That's not right. Suggest you unplug the diff wires to see if it's doing this because of an electrical glitch. If unplugged and it still engages you know it's a mechanical problem within the diff. Might have internal issue you can fix cheap before it does more damage. If electrical, start tracing wires back to switch and go from there.
Hope it's something simple and easy. Share what you find.
 

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That's not right. Suggest you unplug the diff wires to see if it's doing this because of an electrical glitch. If unplugged and it still engages you know it's a mechanical problem within the diff. Might have internal issue you can fix cheap before it does more damage. If electrical, start tracing wires back to switch and go from there.
Hope it's something simple and easy. Share what you find.
So I just disconnected the wires and no change. I can feel it engage at 20 MPH.
 

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So I just disconnected the wires and no change. I can feel it engage at 20 MPH.
Keep in mind my 1,000 mile long screwdriver and binoculars make this difficult 🧐

I'm not so sure you are feeling the front diff engage. If so, it's most likely an internal mechanical problem. Disconnecting the front diff wires eliminates an electrical issue. Need more testing before taking stuff apart. Be a good time to test connection to diff for power to confirm switch, wires and fuse are good before moving on. Voltmeter or test light is easy.

I CAN'T WARN YOU ENOUGH ABOUT DOING THIS SAFELY.
No disrespect, but I do not know your mechanical abilities or experience level. This is not for first time mechanics or those without proper tools such as safe jacks, jack stands, lifts and tools. Spinning wheel studs will rip your hand, arm and tendons to the bone!! Be mindful of yourself and anyone else close to the rig while doing this.

Step #2. Get all the tires off the ground, use jack stands or lift. Make it safe!! Remove wheels to make this a safe test. It's for sure risky, so keep speeds low. DO NOT engage diff with any engine RPM or drive-line moving/turning. Shift trans with foot on brake and no movement in drive line during this test. If your drive-line is moving and you engage the front diff or shift trans while things are rotating it will cause mechanical damage $$$$$

Step #3 Test drive-line in low gear with RZR on lift or jack stands with all wheels removed. Should just be the rear axles turning. Slowly increase RPM to see if front diff is turning. It should not turn. Stop drive-line with foot on brake. Then repeat same test in high gear after all drive-line has stopped moving with foot on brake. May seem simple to leave out such warnings and skip steps, but no reason to make things worse.

a. If front diff is still unplugged and the front is turning, You have confirmed the problem is inside the diff. Time to remove diff for repair.

b. If the front diff did not engage you have ONLY confirmed the front diff is not engaging while the front diff and axles are not spinning as they would be while rolling down the trail. It is possible the front diff is engaging when it is spinning while driving. It could spin enough to create a mechanical engagement if the dowel pin on the ring gear is sheared off or other things are damaged. That pin damages other parts after it shears off and this is known to be a weakness.

Step #4. If you have reached this point and don't know what is wrong its time to plug up the front diff wires. Make sure you test for power at the diff plug and that the switch is working properly. Then you need to repeat Step #3. Only engage the AWD in park or when the drive-line is not moving. Test for front diff movement. It should move at all speeds. Test with AWD button off as well. This should get you closer to finding the problem. It will also allow good inspection of drive-line issues. With no tires the drive-line should not vibrate at all and bearings, axles and such should be smooth. If not, make repairs and retest.

Hope this helps you find the issue. Please let us know how it turns out.
 

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The other thing to be careful with the above, is doing this at full suspension droop can cause issues depending on combination of aftermarket accessories / axles. I like to use straps or otherwise keep the suspension in a loaded state similar to how the vehicle is at rest.
 

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Keep in mind my 1,000 mile long screwdriver and binoculars make this difficult 🧐

I'm not so sure you are feeling the front diff engage. If so, it's most likely an internal mechanical problem. Disconnecting the front diff wires eliminates an electrical issue. Need more testing before taking stuff apart. Be a good time to test connection to diff for power to confirm switch, wires and fuse are good before moving on. Voltmeter or test light is easy.

I CAN'T WARN YOU ENOUGH ABOUT DOING THIS SAFELY.
No disrespect, but I do not know your mechanical abilities or experience level. This is not for first time mechanics or those without proper tools such as safe jacks, jack stands, lifts and tools. Spinning wheel studs will rip your hand, arm and tendons to the bone!! Be mindful of yourself and anyone else close to the rig while doing this.


Step #2. Get all the tires off the ground, use jack stands or lift. Make it safe!! Remove wheels to make this a safe test. It's for sure risky, so keep speeds low. DO NOT engage diff with any engine RPM or drive-line moving/turning. Shift trans with foot on brake and no movement in drive line during this test. If your drive-line is moving and you engage the front diff or shift trans while things are rotating it will cause mechanical damage $$$$$

Step #3 Test drive-line in low gear with RZR on lift or jack stands with all wheels removed. Should just be the rear axles turning. Slowly increase RPM to see if front diff is turning. It should not turn. Stop drive-line with foot on brake. Then repeat same test in high gear after all drive-line has stopped moving with foot on brake. May seem simple to leave out such warnings and skip steps, but no reason to make things worse.

a. If front diff is still unplugged and the front is turning, You have confirmed the problem is inside the diff. Time to remove diff for repair.

b. If the front diff did not engage you have ONLY confirmed the front diff is not engaging while the front diff and axles are not spinning as they would be while rolling down the trail. It is possible the front diff is engaging when it is spinning while driving. It could spin enough to create a mechanical engagement if the dowel pin on the ring gear is sheared off or other things are damaged. That pin damages other parts after it shears off and this is known to be a weakness.

Step #4. If you have reached this point and don't know what is wrong its time to plug up the front diff wires. Make sure you test for power at the diff plug and that the switch is working properly. Then you need to repeat Step #3. Only engage the AWD in park or when the drive-line is not moving. Test for front diff movement. It should move at all speeds. Test with AWD button off as well. This should get you closer to finding the problem. It will also allow good inspection of drive-line issues. With no tires the drive-line should not vibrate at all and bearings, axles and such should be smooth. If not, make repairs and retest.

Hope this helps you find the issue. Please let us know how it turns out.
Alright so I got her up on jacks and with the AWD switch off I put it in HIGH and accelerated slowly and at about 10 MPH it engaged the front diff, I assume it is engaging at a lower speed in the air due to less resistance. I put it in low and reverse and it would not engage. I unplugged the AWD switch and tested each gear again. In high gear it still engages the front diff at about 10 MPH. I will need to get a voltmeter to test the switch but seems to be a mechanical issue. I also topped off the case before I started.
 

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once you get over the voodoo of taking your front diff apart it's really pretty simple inside.. The pinion bearing cage let go on mine and pushed the seal out right before loading onto the trailer at the end of a ride a couple years ago so no damage. Oil pouring out and with there only being 8oz in it it must have just happened.

I went home ordered new bearings, seals, and billet armature plate from HD Extreme an rebuilt it myself. I will say the hardest part was getting the damn pinion and bearing out of the case. When the case was machined it left a small burr at the snap ring groove. I stoned that groove the best I could with a toolmaker's bench stone but in the end I ended up wrapping a red rag around the splined pinion and clamped it in the vise and tapped the case with a block of wood and a brass hammer. If you do this be very careful not to ding up the end of the case!!

While you have the case out replace the mounting bolts with 30mm bolts. The factory bolts are only engaging the case about 50% and they have been known to brake the ears off the cases. diff bolts


Edit: brass hammer not grass lol
 

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I went with Sandcraft parts. Explorer bearings are way better than OEM. Hope you find no major damage and a simple repair. If diff fluid was low at all that is bad. Cup full of lube capacity here seems like a bad idea from start of this design. Makes frequent changes and checking fluid level a must do thing for sure.

Good advice on longer bolts. Blue thread locker and don't over tighten. Easy to strip out the threads when you don't use all of them.

 
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