[Chopstix Kid]

REDACTED
.
Apparently my satire was misplaced here. My sincerest apologies to the OP.

 

[jmu7b6]

My 2-cents... if the noise bothers you, put on a head set. If you want music, get a head set with good audio speakers in them. If you don't want to cover your ears and the noise simply just bothers you, buy a Jeep.

Thanks for no help, you are amazing..... Plenty of people love the rzrs... just want them a little quieter, that's all we're talking about.

 

[HEPHAESTUS]

My 2-cents...

Can I get my money back?

Thanks for no help, you are an amazing..... Plenty of people love the rzrs... just want them a little quieter, that's all we're talking about.

This is where moderation bites us. Had the previous posts arguing about this exact statement not been deleted, maybe he would have seen that his post is redundant and not made it.

 

[SNWMBL]

I would love a quieter exhaust for my 17 XP4. I also don’t want anything on my head except a ball cap.

 

[Chopstix Kid]

Thanks for no help, you are amazing..... Plenty of people love the rzrs... just want them a little quieter, that's all we're talking about.

I was serious about the headsets. Plus you can get the benefit of integrated communications or radios if that’s your thing. That’s what I do. The Jeep was a joke. Don’t buy a Jeep.

 

[jmu7b6]

I was serious about the headsets. That’s what I do. Makes a world of difference when going fast. Plus you get the benefit of integrated communications or radios if that’s your thing. That’s what I do. The Jeep was a joke. Don’t buy a Jeep lol.

I understand a headset is one solution, but myself and others aren't interested in that. We just want to reduce engine noise and fully understand it will never be 100% quiet. Plenty of people have reduced noise in their machines through insulation, rear window, muffler, etc... this thread is intended to consolidate some of that for the pro xp and help everyone understand what difference was made. I have the wolfsnout rear heat shield and will receive my rear window on monday, in next week or two I'm going to remeasure sound before and after for each part to understand more objectively the difference made and will share on this thread. I'm also talking to a few shops on a full custom exhaust with better mufflers, resonator, etc... will post same info once that's done probably in 2 to 3 months.

Also, I was hoping someone would share a slip on exhaust system that reduces it pretty well but so far it doesn't seem like there's one for the pro. The twin loop posted previously was for the xp 1000 and some of the other ones that say "quiet" seems to be debatable whether it's quieter/louder than stock. If you read a bunch of reviews/threads on them in the posts that actually measure the sound, there's not a single one that's quieter than stock. Another recommendation was putting a 2nd muffler on stock which seems to work very well and is inexpensive, but I think I prefer just going a custom route at this point.

 

[jmu7b6]

FYI.. I called HMF racing and asked if they plan to make the Twin loop exhaust for the RZR Pro XP... they said that they did not b\c it's a turbo. The requests I have out to custom shops is making a 3 inch turbo back exhaust with 1 resonator(biggest that will fit) and two mufflers(biggest that will fit) with one muffler feeding the other... this route is expensive though unless you can do it yourself. I will go down this route in March or so, unless I find slip on solution before then. Either way I will post my results when I do it.

 

[littleboss]

I was serious about the headsets. Plus you can get the benefit of integrated communications or radios if that’s your thing. That’s what I do. The Jeep was a joke. Don’t buy a Jeep.

He had already posted that he DIDN'T want to use a headset..... So why post it???

 

[scrappy35]

When I bought my pro, the first thing I noticed was that it was noticeably louder than my xp1k. Everyone seems to be addressing engine noise, but what I noticed was the noise comes from the inboard facing intakes resonating inside the bed. I can clearly hear those intakes making a lot of noise. That is the one big design change I saw with the new body style. When I get mine back together ( doing gear reduction) I’m going to tape off the inboard intakes and see if that really is the extra noise I’m hearing now. Even at idle, the clutch intake makes a pretty good noise. In a 2 seater that is right behind your head.
Opinions?

 

[HEPHAESTUS]

Has anyone tried painting / spraying the back side of the interior panels with a product like lizard skin?

When I bought my pro, the first thing I noticed was that it was noticeably louder than my xp1k. Everyone seems to be addressing engine noise, but what I noticed was the noise comes from the inboard facing intakes resonating inside the bed. I can clearly hear those intakes making a lot of noise. That is the one big design change I saw with the new body style. When I get mine back together ( doing gear reduction) I’m going to tape off the inboard intakes and see if that really is the extra noise I’m hearing now. Even at idle, the clutch intake makes a pretty good noise. In a 2 seater that is right behind your head.
Opinions?

I have a '19 xp4t and a '21 Pro XP and I also noticed how much louder the Pro is. To me, it's the exhaust. I can sit there right behind either idling and there is a noticeable difference.

 

[Tricon]

Has anyone tried painting / spraying the back side of the interior panels with a product like lizard skin?
I have a '19 xp4t and a '21 Pro XP and I also noticed how much louder the Pro is. To me, it's the exhaust. I can sit there right behind either idling and there is a noticeable difference.

I lined the entire rear firewall, center console, and some of the front of my 4 seater with mass loaded vinyl (sound) and heat reflector. I also did foam backed liner on the roof. It made a big difference in interior heat and a small difference in sound. I'm also in the process of building some interior door panels with mass loaded vinyl and upholstery. I'm curious how it will affect sound. This is just the plastic backing plate I cut out. I should take some db measurements before and after to see, can't imagine it wouldn't help quite a bit.

You guys with stock exhausts should also give one of these a look. I threw one in my Gibson dual exhaust because it was a little too loud after breaking in. It cut down the noise a ton and didn't affect performance at all. Just slap that baby in where the head pipe meets the exhaust pipe and it will quiet the exhaust noise further. But I feel like the cab noise is more resonance from the engine itself.

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[the406life]

I covered the firewall behind the back seat of our 4 seater with two layers of 100mil Kilmat and it made very little difference. Would be nice if they would put a real firewall in these things instead of some cheap plastic garbage.

The Pro XP was our first side by side in 2020 after coming from 30 years of racing motocross and snowmobiling. The quality difference and the attention to detail in the assembly of sxs machines compared to dirt bikes and snowmobiles is disgusting. Paying 10 grand for a dirt bike or 15 grand for a snowmobile is average and I have never had one that came from the factory with stripped bolt holes and stupid engineering features like the airbox on the pro xp. Who thought needing to remove the firewall to change the air filter was a good idea? If they flipped the air box the other way so you could access it with the cargo bed removed it would make life easier. Every time I change the oil I change the air filter as well so it just makes sense to have the airbox accessible at the same time without having to fold up the seats and remove the firewall.
Anyway, I know this is totally derailed. We love our Pro XP and after 3 years of working on it and maintaining it I have just accepted that side by sides are $30,000 pieces of plastic junk engineered by the same people that designed the Ford Pinto and assembled by drunken teenagers on a Friday afternoon.

 

[HEPHAESTUS]

The Pro XP was our first side by side in 2020 after coming from 30 years of racing motocross and snowmobiling. The quality difference and the attention to detail in the assembly of sxs machines compared to dirt bikes and snowmobiles is disgusting. Paying 10 grand for a dirt bike or 15 grand for a snowmobile is average and I have never had one that came from the factory with stripped bolt holes and stupid engineering features like the airbox on the pro xp. Who thought needing to remove the firewall to change the air filter was a good idea? If they flipped the air box the other way so you could access it with the cargo bed removed it would make life easier. Every time I change the oil I change the air filter as well so it just makes sense to have the airbox accessible at the same time without having to fold up the seats and remove the firewall.
Anyway, I know this is totally derailed. We love our Pro XP and after 3 years of working on it and maintaining it I have just accepted that side by sides are $30,000 pieces of plastic junk engineered by the same people that designed the Ford Pinto and assembled by drunken teenagers on a Friday afternoon.

For the most part, I agree with you. But the engineering and experience that goes into RZR suspension would be impossible to acquire for most people, and even for those who are smart enough to grasp the concepts, would take decades of experience to acquire. But I digress ...

 

[jmu7b6]

Are there any exhaust experts on here? Been doing some research on 2.5" vs 3" pipe, smaller pipe is quieter while a larger pipe flows more(obviously). My question is on a 925cc two cylinder machine, is 3" pipe overkill and just allowing more noise than needed. I'm not an expert, don't claim to be a google PHD, I've been researching online, watching videos, etc.., so I'm questioning if a 3" exhaust is really needed on these machines even if you are making them less restrictive by using better components (no cat or high flow cat, mufflers, resonators, etc..).

Here's one video that got me thinking

where they compare open headers, 2.5", vs 3" exhaust on a 600hp 454ci(roughly 7500cc) engine. Anyways, in this video there was only a difference in HP & Torque above 3500 RPM and the difference(2.5" was 554 torque & 601 hp vs 3" 569 torque & 614hp) was 13hp and 15 torque on a much larger engine compared to exhaust pipe size, while they comment that the noise was noticeably quieter on the 2.5". I'm wondering if 3" is overkill on these small motors and will just allow more noise through vs really impacting the performance.

Here's a CFM calculator where I got a max 287 to 431 CFM by plugging in numbers for the RZR Pro XP, range is based on what number you plug in for volumetric efficiency. I used 2 to get 287 and 3 to get 431.

Here's another website where they breakdown CFM by pipe size, 2.5" flows 509 CFM and they are estimating that can support 232 HP on a single pipe, understand this is just an estimate and there are various factors.

Any actual exhaust experts have any input on a 2.5 vs 3 for Turbo RZRs? Have you compared the same components while only varying pipe size using a dyno like the video above?

From my reading it seems 2.5 will flow more than enough exhaust and will help with noise.

 

[BondoMan]

In my experience, diameter is calculated from power adders/VE, displacement and maximum RPM. My supercharged 6.2L V8 putting out ~700lbft and spinning to 6800 rpm barely requires dual 3”. Without doing the math, the rzr motor will spin (maybe) 33% more rpm, but has 70% less displacement displacement per pipe. Without factoring VE which shouldn’t move the needle too much, 2.5” is adequate and 3” is overkill. It won’t help or hurt performance (that whole back pressure myth is bunk) but it will be louder. If anything, low rpm torque may be down on the larger pipe, but these machines aren’t setup to run low rpm’s with the cvt.

 

[the406life]

For the most part, I agree with you. But the engineering and experience that goes into RZR suspension would be impossible to acquire for most people, and even for those who are smart enough to grasp the concepts, would take decades of experience to acquire. But I digress ...

I don't have the energy to discuss how unimpressed I am by the Polaris engineers ability to utilize and refine basic control arm/trailing arm suspension geometry that's been around since the mid-1900's.
I would be happy if they just raised their quality expectations during assembly and held their employees accountable for slapping stuff together with minimum effort.

 

[HEPHAESTUS]

I don't have the energy to discuss how unimpressed I am by the Polaris engineers ability to utilize and refine basic control arm/trailing arm suspension geometry that's been around since the mid-1900's.
I would be happy if they just raised their quality expectations during assembly and held their employees accountable for slapping stuff together with minimum effort.

Meh ... I don't recall seeing any horse buggies doing 80mph offroad in the 1900's so I'll give credit where credit is due. I've built 4 rock buggies from the ground up in the past. Getting suspensions as tuned as my RZR came from the factory is not easy.

 

[jmu7b6]

Update from Treal Performance on their exhaust for pro XP. They have a 3" slip on turbo back exhaust - single muffler with resonator, and they said they would make this same setup using 2.5" tubing for the same price $1100. This should be quieter than their 3" but the question is it quieter than stock and how much? They just need a 3-4 week lead time to complete.

I'm debating between going this route or a custom shop which is $1500+ but I'll have larger dual mufflers and a larger resonator on 2.5" tubing. Either option should flow better than stock and reduce temperatures since their will be no cat, but the question is will they both be quieter than stock and by how much? I'd be willing to pay more if the quieter option was 2-3db+ quieter. Anyone have any input on realistic expectations on either of these being quieter than stock before I spend money on trial and error?

Here are the parts the custom shop would use, if anyone has thoughts on the custom setup.

2x Mufflers 616-06323-2100-2.5" SS304 Oval Muffler 19" OAL - P
1x Resonator 615-06313-0000-2.5" SS304 Lightweight Race Muffler 12&q

 

[jmu7b6]

I finally got around to installing the following parts. I did this in the order below and measured decibel reduction at idle, 4000 rpms, and 6500 rpms after each part I installed. All readings below are from 6500 rpms.

1. Double Ott Pro XP Inner Wheel Well Block Offs - ~.5db vs nothing
2. Boat Foam Decking on the Inside of the Roof - Meter didn't measure a difference, but did seem like some of the higher pitch was better
3. Wolf Snout Rear Heat Shield - 4 seat- ~1-1.5 db difference vs previous step
   1. I added an extra layer of Siless 157 mil foam to the shield
   2. Installing this heat shield is much easier than applying sound deadening foam to the plastic panels, took me about 10 mins to install the panel, it's easily removed, and the panel seems to be easy to clean by pressure washing.
4. Double Ott Rear Window with Speaker Cutouts- ~1-1.5 db difference vs previous step
   1. Note: this does work with the Polaris tire carrier and the Jemco PXP Xtreme cargo box. I wanted to get the Dirt Warrior Accessories Rear Window with Speaker Cutouts, but they said it doesn't fit with the Polaris Tire Carrier.

Note: when measuring on the db meter the db's jump up/down quickly and there's a slight delay in the reading vs the noise level, so it's hard to get a precise reading. Readings very drastically if you move the meter around. I kept the meter on the exact same spot on the steering wheel to keep it consistent.

Overall at 6500 RPMs with nothing it was roughly 93-94db after everything was on it was 90-91db, that's about 3-3.5 db reduction, which a 3db reduction is 50% reduction in sound energy. How you perceive sound is different than sound energy, it didn't sound half as loud but it was noticeably quieter than with nothing.

After I did everything above I also threw a moving blanket over the bottom of the rear seats and the foot well(didn't cover it completely), this reduced it about another 1db. I'll be looking into what I can do to insulate the seat bottoms and the foot well at some point in the future. I will also be doing a custom exhaust with 2.5" pipe, 1 Large Resonator, and 2 Large Mufflers around March.

I'll report back when I do these additional items.

 

[BondoMan]

I finally got around to installing the following parts. I did this in the order below and measured decibel reduction at idle, 4000 rpms, and 6500 rpms after each part I installed. All readings below are from 6500 rpms.

1. Double Ott Pro XP Inner Wheel Well Block Offs - ~.5db vs nothing
2. Boat Foam Decking on the Inside of the Roof - Meter didn't measure a difference, but did seem like some of the higher pitch was better
3. Wolf Snout Rear Heat Shield - 4 seat- ~1-1.5 db difference vs previous step
   1. I added an extra layer of Siless 157 mil foam to the shield
   2. Installing this heat shield is much easier than applying sound deadening foam to the plastic panels, took me about 10 mins to install the panel, it's easily removed, and the panel seems to be easy to clean by pressure washing.
4. Double Ott Rear Window with Speaker Cutouts- ~1-1.5 db difference vs previous step
   1. Note: this does work with the Polaris tire carrier and the Jemco PXP Xtreme cargo box. I wanted to get the Dirt Warrior Accessories Rear Window with Speaker Cutouts, but they said it doesn't fit with the Polaris Tire Carrier.

Note: when measuring on the db meter the db's jump up/down quickly and there's a slight delay in the reading vs the noise level, so it's hard to get a precise reading. Readings very drastically if you move the meter around. I kept the meter on the exact same spot on the steering wheel to keep it consistent.

Overall at 6500 RPMs with nothing it was roughly 93-94db after everything was on it was 90-91db, that's about 3-3.5 db reduction, which a 3db reduction is 50% reduction in sound energy. How you perceive sound is different than sound energy, it didn't sound half as loud but it was noticeably quieter than with nothing.

After I did everything above I also threw a moving blanket over the bottom of the rear seats and the foot well(didn't cover it completely), this reduced it about another 1db. I'll be looking into what I can do to insulate the seat bottoms and the foot well at some point in the future. I will also be doing a custom exhaust with 2.5" pipe, 1 Large Resonator, and 2 Large Mufflers around March.

I'll report back when I do these additional items.

This is some interesting and valuable info.