Rear Differential Bearings

4201 Views 15 Replies 6 Participants Last post by Troof2023, 15 d ago

conorknoxx

Discussion Starter · Sep 19, 2017

any one else had to change the bearings where the rear axles go into the differential? Did a forum search, didn't find one post about it...
I'm not seeing any oil leaking around mine, but where the axles go into the diff, it is VERY loose.
I'm really wondering if its even possible to do myself, or if you'd have to pull the transaxle, split the cases to get them out? :crying
Which is way outside of my level of competence.

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

skunk347

· #2 · Sep 20, 2017

Get new axles. There probably wore causing slop.

4freese

· #3 · Sep 20, 2017

I’ve seen them go bad on machines that were abused and not properly serviced. Never that quick though. And yes you have to break her apart for that bearing so if you do it replace everything and don’t cheap out on it. Do everything you want to do like reverse chain upgrade and gear ratio conversion.

Also post a short video of the wobble so we can see it better. Could just be a bad axle fooling you.

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conorknoxx

Discussion Starter · #4 · Sep 20, 2017

letting the dealership have a look at it today. There's 10,000km on it, and I've changed the oil regularly with Polaris oil kits..

Rzrted1

· #5 · Sep 20, 2017

Just so you know it's not bad at all

I have done the fronts
On a 2009 Rzr-s, there's a bearing and seal at all three locations
On the front

And a ring and piñon gear, it has a electro magnet that engages

Originally they sold no sep parts you had to replace the hole unit

I lost one seal and bearing, all three are the same

I took one of the good seals and bearings to a bearing parts house

$50 back on biz, take pics of you need to, harder to get out that replace parts

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conorknoxx

Discussion Starter · #6 · Sep 21, 2017

well, dealer says "axles" (splines wearing and causing the snap ring to no longer lock in, creating the loose fit) so I took it home. Going to pull the axles and have a good close look. Then I'll likely switch to Rhino's.

conorknoxx

Discussion Starter · #7 · Sep 21, 2017

Update: wow! this is not easy! Those axles do NOT want to come out of there. Ended up popping the outer CV joints on both sides, then created a kind of home-made "slide hammer" ( a little hard to explain... but essentially picture 5lb weight, from a barbell and a pair of vice grips on the end of the axle, just inside the spline) and finally the left one popped. Right one is still no-go at this point. The inner CV has popped off now too, so all I've got is the big (hollow) hub to pull on. I think I'm going to weld a strap or bracket to it, and attached some kind of slide-hammer / puller... but too fed up to tackle it tonight.
On the left side, I took the lock-ring off the axle, and slid it back into the socket/differential. There is a TON of play in there. I'm really hoping its the axle that is worn. I'm ordering a new set - and will slide a new one in to see how much play there is. "fingers crossed!"

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4freese

· #8 · Sep 22, 2017

conorknoxx said:
Update: wow! this is not easy! Those axles do NOT want to come out of there. Ended up popping the outer CV joints on both sides, then created a kind of home-made "slide hammer" ( a little hard to explain... but essentially picture 5lb weight, from a barbell and a pair of vice grips on the end of the axle, just inside the spline) and finally the left one popped. Right one is still no-go at this point. The inner CV has popped off now too, so all I've got is the big (hollow) hub to pull on. I think I'm going to weld a strap or bracket to it, and attached some kind of slide-hammer / puller... but too fed up to tackle it tonight.
On the left side, I took the lock-ring off the axle, and slid it back into the socket/differential. There is a TON of play in there. I'm really hoping its the axle that is worn. I'm ordering a new set - and will slide a new one in to see how much play there is. "fingers crossed!"

When you put the new ones in load the splines up with some good anti-seize. That will greatly reduce the amount of pull you need to get them back out. The manufacturers do not use it on assembly. I have seen worn hubs and worn splines on axles with machines that have a lot of miles on them. Hell, mine is a 2016 with like 300 miles and my axles we’re STUCK! Had to use my axle slide hammer tool as well. But when you put the new ones in make sure you use the anti seize. You will be happy you did later down the road. Especially if you need to pop a new one in on the trail.

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conorknoxx

Discussion Starter · #9 · Sep 22, 2017

Yeah... I was under the mistaken impression that the back side of the axles were happily splashing around in the transaxle oil! The one I got out was pretty rusty. The odd thing is, even though it's "stuck" - it wiggles and slops around in there like crazy. So its definitely not corrosion on the splines holding it in. Somehow that snap-ring/clip/wire thing is caught in there, but good

At this point I'm pretty worried about breaking something like the transmission case, or the internal spline/gear getting it out. Just don't see any other course of action..

4freese

· #10 · Sep 22, 2017

conorknoxx said:
Yeah... I was under the mistaken impression that the back side of the axles were happily splashing around in the transaxle oil! The one I got out was pretty rusty. The odd thing is, even though it's "stuck" - it wiggles and slops around in there like crazy. So its definitely not corrosion on the splines holding it in. Somehow that snap-ring/clip/wire thing is caught in there, but good
At this point I'm pretty worried about breaking something like the transmission case, or the internal spline/gear getting it out. Just don't see any other course of action..

Get yourself a big old exhaust clamp from NAPA and weld it to a nut/bolt that can be attached to a slide hammer and attach it to the inner cv cup and pop that joker on out of there. That’s the tool I made. Works wonderful. I run a shop so I get machines all the time with broken axles and that little tool has really saved me time and headache.

And they sell this style also if you don’t mind waiting but I like the clamp one better

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conorknoxx

Discussion Starter · #11 · Oct 7, 2017

Well, finally got the new set of Rhino axles, and installed them today.
The first thing that made me nervous: I used a set of calipers to measure the old axles, at the splines - 1.21 inches / measure the new ones - 1.19 inches. Not good...
Put them in anyway, and they still have a very sloppy fit into the transaxle. Locked right into place, I can move/wobble them around quite a bit. With everything together, hubs back in place, etc. they don't move as much, but still way to much in my mind. I'm going to stop by the dealer this week and give the axles a shake on a new one, just to be sure what "normal" is.
Nothing much I can see to do though, at this point, other just drive it to failure. Replace the transmission if/when it happens

conorknoxx

Discussion Starter · #12 · Nov 1, 2017

well, the dealer finally got back to me. His reply: "that amount of play is normal for having 10,000km on it. No warranty coverage"
ugh... they are pretty darn loose in there. Can't say I'm happy, but can't see what else I can do at this point, other than tearing down the transmission, which is a little beyond my skills I think.

obrianmcc

· #13 · Nov 2, 2017

... I wouldn't expect a 2015 with 10,000 KM to be covered under any warranty? .... is it causing an issue while riding? ... or are you obsessing about it in the garage? ... I think it's difficult for most to picture how much play you're describing ... can you post a video?

conorknoxx

Discussion Starter · #14 · Nov 2, 2017

that's an interesting point... My warranty was extended to Nov 2018, but there's never been mention of any mileage limit. You'd think there must be though? I can try to get a video of the play, and its not causing any problem while riding at this point. However, if I grab the CV housing, right beside the transmission, I can move it back and forth, at least a quarter of an inch, but I'd say closer to a half inch. Other machines/brands I've check, there's almost no play at all here.

obrianmcc

· #15 · Nov 2, 2017

conorknoxx said:
that's an interesting point... My warranty was extended to Nov 2018, but there's never been mention of any mileage limit. You'd think there must be though? I can try to get a video of the play, and its not causing any problem while riding at this point. However, if I grab the CV housing, right beside the transmission, I can move it back and forth, at least a quarter of an inch, but I'd say closer to a half inch. Other machines/brands I've check, there's almost no play at all here.

That does sound excessive. I ask if your being over OCD on this as that's the category I'd fall into ... new noises, etc will drive me nuts until I can either resolve or get confirmation that it is normal. I'm still fairly new to the RZR game and haven't quite nailed down normal longevity of these machines.

Troof2023

· #16 · 15 d ago

Rzrted1 said:
Just so you know it's not bad at all I have done the fronts On a 2009 Rzr-s, there's a bearing and seal at all three locations On the front And a ring and piñon gear, it has a electro magnet that engages Originally they sold no sep parts you had to replace the hole unit I lost one seal and bearing, all three are the same I took one of the good seals and bearings to a bearing parts house $50 back on biz, take pics of you need to, harder to get out that replace parts

1 - 16 of 16 Posts