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Rear axles angle

14K views 16 replies 3 participants last post by  N1d0n  
#1 ·
Hello Everyone..

I have an issue once again. ahah.. 2 weeks ago I went for a nice ride and tore a boot on the rear passenger side.. I changed the boot and today I went to look at the angle of my rear axles and I wanted to verify if there was any binding and there was but I noticed right away that the passenger rear axle was bent really bad..

I went and bought a new Rhino axle but now I just want to know if my RZR is too high? and by that I mean are my axles angle ok?



Please let me know what you guys think.

Thank you,
Marc
 
#3 ·
The steeper the angle is the harder they will be on cv joints and such. As for the bent axle, the oems tend to do that because they twist like a torsion bar, when they are stressed. It looks like you have your springs cranked pretty high, so I'm sure that didnt help either. The rhino axle should be alittle better at the high angles than the oems.
 
#7 · (Edited)
Here is mine with Racertech 2" lift and worn out oem springs set to stock recommended preload.



And here it is with Racertech 2" lift and Racertech heavy rate springs set to Racertech's recommended preload.



The excessive preload you have will wear the oem spring out even faster than they would normally, which is too fast to begin with. You also get a terrible ride with the shocks cranked up that high. Rides like a pogo stick.
 
#8 ·
Here is mine with Racertech 2" lift and worn out oem springs set to stock recommended preload.


And here it is with Racertech 2" lift and Racertech heavy rate springs set to Racertech's recommended preload.


The excessive preload you have will wear the oem spring out even faster than they would normally, which is too fast to begin with. You also get a terrible ride with the shocks cranked up that high. Rides like a pogo stick.
I think I will reinstall my 2" lift and releade the pressure on my spring. But the axle angle that you have and that I have is similar no?
 
#9 ·
I dont know that they are THAT similiar. Yours looks like your suspension is almost topped out. Put a jack under the rear, start jacking it up and see how much you lift the frame before the tires come off the ground. I doubt you have to jack it up very far. On mine I have my suspension set up so I have around 8 to 8 1/2 inches of up travel and 3 1/2 to 4 inches of down travel with just the vehicle weight, no passengers. Here's the thing, the axles shouldnt bind even if you have the wheels off the ground, unless the axles shafts are bent , then you will get bind. But the higher you get the steeper tha angles, the more wear and tear on the cv joints. If you want height and ground clearance, you are gonna be harder on axles. Got to give to get.
 
#10 ·
My outer axle stubs are pretty even with the bottom of the frame where the a-arms mount. Its kinda hard to tell for sure, but from your pic, it appears that your's are a couple of inches below the frame level. But the pic could be decieving.
 
#11 ·
Not being a smart ass here, but what do you need that much ground clearance for? I have found that 12" will get you over anything on the trails. At that compression level, your springs are not able to work. You are in the area of threads that are simply there to get the retainers up in the territory they belong.
Honestly, I think your springs are sagged out, as happens to all OEM springs after 1500 miles or so.
 
#16 ·
I'm running 27" roctanes, measure a true 27". If I remember correctly, I think i was around 12-13 to the bottom of the frame where the rear arms mount.