I just replaced my whole transmission for 1700 with all parts and got the tools, if you do it yourself you can do it for proably 200$. All u need is clutch spacing tool, 2 new through bolts and 2 nuts for those bolts.

 

So you only need to remove 2 of those bolts to align the transmission?

 

As far as I know that should be all you need to, if you get the plate you can throw it on and even see if it is out of alignment without un bolting anything

 

Do you need the alignment plate from Polaris or can you just drill a piece of flatbar with holes centred at 10.5" based on the owners manual?

 

That's all the polaris tool is 1/4" thick plate with to holes exactly 10.5" spaced

 

Center to center distance is one thing, belt alignment is an entirely different beast.

The centerline of the crankshaft and the centerline of the trans input shaft MUST be perfectly parallel to each other in both the "looking down from the top of the machine" and the "looking at the machine from the back" points of view. Call it X and Y axis if you understand the three dimensional Cartesian Coordinates system - Z axis would be looking down the afore mentioned center lines. (c/l)

Looking from behind, if the c/l's are not parallel, you are introducing a slight twist into the belt and it will cause heat buildup and wear on the clutch faces and belt.

Looking down from the top, if the c/l's are not parallel, it loads the belt on one side, once again causing heat buildup and wear on the clutch faces and belt. This misalignment is the worst of the two.

It will also affect clutch action/performance, as they are designed to be actuated in a perpendicular to c/l input, so the moment you twist or misalign, you introduce a side loading that they're not tolerant of and this leads to premature wear of the sliding parts and surfaces in the clutches - mainly the secondary (driven) clutch.

My first desert race car ran a cvt setup that would smoke a belt after long, high speed runs. Turned out that the alignment was out as looking down. As long as I varied speed, making the belt move up/down in the sheaves, not building heat in one spot, I could combat belt loss but it was a temporary fix. Once I realigned the system, I never had another belt failure other than wear.

Clutch alignment is probably one of the most critical aspects of tuning in any CVT system and probably the most overlooked.

 

This is all good, but I didn't see how to adjust endplay alighnment of the eng & trans? Please educate!
Thanks

 

I assume that you do not have the warranty?


I've been debating keeping mine, or cashing it in and add some go fast goodies.

 

The only adjustment for the clutches on the 900 are center to center. If its not lined up something is bent or broke. I see no need to replace the bolts or jamb nuts. If you want to be anal replace the nylock nuts. The transmission hardware is the biggest rip off I have ever seen in my lifetime. I had to buy hardware for a build I'm doing and it made me sick to pay those prices. There about a 10,000% mark up. Lol

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I didn't replace the bolts either!

 

I replaced my motor mounts with the Holtz ones after having to align my tranny 3 times . Have not had to do it again after the new motor mounts .

 

Frank did you replace the bolts every time, I am putting in a new long block I dusted my motor in taylor park, Manual leaves the alignment kind of a gray area any tips you have would be good thanks mike

 

Hi Mike I changed them the second time , not the 3rd time . The old rubber motor mounts allowed the engine and transmission to get out of alignment , the billet ones from Holtz are more ridged .i also used a alignment bar between the clutches ,

 

I have the holz motor mount kit sounds like that is a plus.

 

No you don't have to re align with new mounts. You only change one mount at a time so nothing ever moves

 

I broke my reverse chain. I have 15hrs on my machine. I ordered a Turner shaft and double chain set-up which will hopefully be here next week. I'm setting up to pull the transmission out and split it. I'm trying to do my homework so it will go smoothly ince the parts get here. I was just wondering what the diameter of the holes are supposed to be in the shaft alignment plate? I see I need to use 1/4" plate. What is a good height and width to make it. And if you guys know of anything else I'll need besides run of the mill hand tools or any OE gaskets etc, that info would be much appreciated and I can get that all here ahead of time.

 

I've done it twice in the last three weeks. Once to replace stock chain and then again to do the turner upgrade last week. Besides basic tools you need primary clutch puller, special socket fur mount jam nuts (or just build one), 3 jaw bearing puller, and clutch center distant tool (or build your own). You will also need 3 bond case sealant.

For the center distance tool I used a 13" length of 4" x 1/2" flatbar because that's what I had laying around. The measurements are .870" for the input shaft and .542" for the primary bolt. 10.5" centers. I cut out a section of the flatbar for access to the transmission /engine mount. I will get you some pictures later

Jason

 

That's what I'm talkin about, Pipefitter. I was wondering if bypassing my warranty and biting the bullet on the turner parts was the right thing to do. Especially considering it's $1850. I guess it's a pay me now or pay me later. My neighbor has a machine shop behind his house. He said he'd build the center distance tool. And a pic of the tool would be great to get an idea for the clearance cut for the mount access. And for the jam nuts, can I just take a 28mm socket and have him machine out the 2/3 of the inside of the drive end of the socket? Or what would the most practical means be to produce it? And thanks for the info.

 

when i did mine i built all my own tools to do the job used a piece of strap and drilled out holes correct size on a drill press at 10 1/2 center on center and checked and checked and re-checked with a tape as i tightened trans mount bolts reused old hardware with some fresh locktite and have put another 1000 miles on machine with the same belt with no problems hell i think a tape measure and a good eyeball would get you what you needed depends on how anal you are about this stuff i made the tool mainly because it was easier to hold everything in place while i tightened it all down made a socket to remove and tighten the jam nuts with a socket the correct size with all but like a 1/4 inch of the the teeth ground out of the socket on the outside edge little trial and error but find a download of the service manual it helped alot on all specs and such good luck :tools1:

 

Hey squish, do you have any pics of your home made socket? Thanks.

 

i borrowed it to a friend about 3 months ago and well tools have a way of never making it home but i just would grind out a little and try it over and over till it worked wish i could get you some pics sorry friend

 

Here is the socket I made..

home made alignment tool..

 

their ya go i made about the same animals but just ground out the inner teeth of the socket instead of welding on a piece

 

28mm socket, correct? And thank you, Dart.

 

How do you like your Turner shaft/chain, Pipefitter? Worth the $? Have you given it enough hell to tell whether it's the end of your chain problems?

 

how hard is it to replace these motor mounts?

 

Only have one ride on it today. Havnt really gave her hell yet. I still don't plan on beating on it in reverse but at least now I have the confidence to try and reverse out of a hole.