Found that out the hard way on my steering links for a Jeep myself.If those bungs are fully threaded, be careful with your heat input into them. I found that out the hard way when I did my 4-link in my truck. The heat will shrink/distort the threads and you won't be able to thread your joints in nicely, if at all. You really only need to do a butt weld between the bung and the end of the tube, don't pretend its a pipe weld with a root/fill/cap. The strength of the just the butt weld will far exceed what tensile forces will be present in that radius rod.
Called them up... Definitely gonna go with their product. Looks super nice, customer service was great and price is really not bad at all. I didn’t realize this stuff was all the same as 1000 XPs... Way more options now that I know that but still think this stuff is the best for what I need.Definitely late to the party here. Just got home from windrock. Give nrp a call. I'm running his full billet setup on my rs1 with the fk upgrades. Was close to the same price as your parts list. I went through the same thing thinking I could make them cheaper myself. Turns out it's about the same to buy them. View attachment 650508
What is your distance from frame(not the weld in bung) to center of heim joint? Hard to tell from pic but looks like 1-1/16 maybe. You know anyone with a lathe? Even a mini lathe could turn the spacers down quickly.I am starting to think I screwed up by buying misalignment spacers... I should get another set of the short spacers for the frame side to keep the dimension as short as possible between the frame and radius rod plate... Dangit.