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Thank you for the input. I was keeping heat in mind, so I have been jumping around doing a little bit of welding on each end of each rod. I did turn one of the tube inserts blue from taking too long to fill one of the plug welds.... Learning.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
If those bungs are fully threaded, be careful with your heat input into them. I found that out the hard way when I did my 4-link in my truck. The heat will shrink/distort the threads and you won't be able to thread your joints in nicely, if at all. You really only need to do a butt weld between the bung and the end of the tube, don't pretend its a pipe weld with a root/fill/cap. The strength of the just the butt weld will far exceed what tensile forces will be present in that radius rod.
Found that out the hard way on my steering links for a Jeep myself.

I recommend keeping an end threaded in there during welding if you wanna plug weld but keep the end itself cool by wrapping it with a wet rag.
Also the temporary radius arm I made out of DOM tube and the ends I cut off my bent stock one to get me by until I get some high clearance ones is only butt welded (mainly cause the cheap ass Polaris ends only have about 10mm that fits inside tube) and I have rode hard several times, rolled it once and broke 2 front driveshaft u joints and it’s held up perfect... So plug we’d REALLY isn’t needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Definitely late to the party here. Just got home from windrock. Give nrp a call. I'm running his full billet setup on my rs1 with the fk upgrades. Was close to the same price as your parts list. I went through the same thing thinking I could make them cheaper myself. Turns out it's about the same to buy them. View attachment 650508
Called them up... Definitely gonna go with their product. Looks super nice, customer service was great and price is really not bad at all. I didn’t realize this stuff was all the same as 1000 XPs... Way more options now that I know that but still think this stuff is the best for what I need.
 

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Got mine all welded up. Doing it here at work, so I just did 15 minutes of welding here and there and moving from piece to piece to keep the heat down. All heims threaded right in.

The hub side spacers should be in the post today so I can bolt everything up later to check fitment.
 

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Do any of you experienced with this think its okay to use misalignment spacers on the frame side of the rad rods? These increase the original width of the heims to 1⅜" which push them out a bit from stock. I'm also welding in the threaded inserts which have an ⅛" shoulder that adds to the 1⅜".

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Here's a picture with it bolted up. Inserts are only tacked and the plate needs to be bolted there too... might need longer bolts!

And another picture of the wheel side spacers compared to a misalignment spacer.

Should I get another set of the short spacers for the frame side? Or should I just grind down the mis spacers?



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I am starting to think I screwed up by buying misalignment spacers... I should get another set of the short spacers for the frame side to keep the dimension as short as possible between the frame and radius rod plate... Dangit.
 

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Welds look GREAT!
I think shorter bolts and keeping joint closer towards frame would be slightly stronger. Over built on some parts is a good thing. I wish the mounting point/plate on the chassis was thicker and stronger myself. I hit a tree root last year, tore sidewall of tire at beadlock and came to nearly dead stop. Hard hit damaged wheel bearing and seem to slightly bend one mounting bolt at frame ever so slightly. Tweaked it enough to make camber off 1 degree or less. These things are hard to measure, but getting it that close is good for the dirt.

I urge you to look for rubber boots to put over the joints. Keeping dirt out is the right answer. Squirt of grease to joint under boot yearly works great, keeps water and dirt out. No squeaks and they last!

Great work! Thanks for sharing pics.
 

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I am starting to think I screwed up by buying misalignment spacers... I should get another set of the short spacers for the frame side to keep the dimension as short as possible between the frame and radius rod plate... Dangit.
What is your distance from frame(not the weld in bung) to center of heim joint? Hard to tell from pic but looks like 1-1/16 maybe. You know anyone with a lathe? Even a mini lathe could turn the spacers down quickly.
 

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Thanks Pro4driver! Having a lot of fun in the process. Will look into heim boots!

SNWMBL, yes, 1-1/16 to 1-1/8 with mis spacers. Seems way too wide. I went ahead and ordered the 'tall' spacers from wolfpack utv. They're the spacers intended for the frame side. Machining is one of the things I do not have easy access to, all well.
 

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Update, here's where I am with this project... Trying to decide how I want to configure the rad rod plate. I want to use 2 plates and tie them together to make a cage, aka double shear. The way that I have it, the lower radius rod is pushed out from it's original location off of the frame by about 3/8". Anyone see a problem with this? Also, another delay, now I need longer bolts for the lowers. Thanks to either Joe's or SNWMBL's thread, I found belmetric to buy the bolts from. Also need to add a tow hook/bed step to the back plate, and later a rear bumper.
 

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I agree, I have thoroughly enjoyed his and Joe's build threads. All amazing work!

Tomorrow I will cut the tow hook and gussets, and cut some 1/8" 4130 to box in the rad rod plates. It will be super simple, I'm thinking just plates in the horizontal on the top & bottom of the opening.

Here's the tow hook and gussets, I will break the tip of the gussets to follow the angle of the tow hook.
 

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