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Discussion Starter #1
So turns out when you put 32s on and drive like a maniac the stock lower radius arms take a licking and then well... Just kind of STOP ticking.
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So since its an RS1 I thought about going pretty much the only way to upgrade and getting SuperATV high clearance ones. Then the machinists at work saw me removing the old ones, they all used to build race cars and stuff so they got interested and now they wanna build me a set.

We have a waterjet, multiple mills, tig welder and basically every possible tool or machine I could use to make any kind of radius arm I can imagine... So... Recommendations?
1: Material: Aluminum, Steel or Cro-Moly Steel?
2: Design: Arched or straight with adjustability? (all things being equal straight will always be stronger and lighter but not sure how much a difference the arch makes as far as getting places).
3. Thickness: Billet/Solid or welded plate/tubing of ?? thickness?
4. Shape: Round? Rectangular?
5. Hemi joints: Best brand/type?

Thanks.
 

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Uni-ball on the frame side and hiem on the hub side. FK or QA1 for hiems.

If you do steel use chromoly 1 - 1.25" 0.125-0.187" wall. If you put bends in them for high clearance reinforce the bends with gusset plates across the bends on both sides of the tubing.

6061 Aluminum 1.25" rod for straight radius rods. If you want high clearance aluminum radius rods unless you have a CNC you would be better off buying a set.
 

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Uni-ball on the frame side and hiem on the hub side. FK or QA1 for hiems.

If you do steel use chromoly 1 - 1.25" 0.125-0.187" wall. If you put bends in them for high clearance reinforce the bends with gusset plates across the bends on both sides of the tubing.

6061 Aluminum 1.25" rod for straight radius rods. If you want high clearance aluminum radius rods unless you have a CNC you would be better off buying a set.
That's the ticket if you ask me as well, I would add that if you do go with Chromoly, it really needs to be heat treated after any welding to return to full yield strength and reduce the chances of brittle fracture, but, in this application, you should be ok without it, especially if it's TIG welded with controlled heat input. Also, PTFE lined rod ends & uniballs to keep them quiet and squeak free.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Uni-ball on the frame side and hiem on the hub side. FK or QA1 for hiems.

If you do steel use chromoly 1 - 1.25" 0.125-0.187" wall. If you put bends in them for high clearance reinforce the bends with gusset plates across the bends on both sides of the tubing.

6061 Aluminum 1.25" rod for straight radius rods. If you want high clearance aluminum radius rods unless you have a CNC you would be better off buying a set.
School my on uniball... What are they and how do they compare to what’s on there now? As for rod ends don’t care at all about noise only strength so was looking at QA1 X series... Good choice? As for cro moly vs aluminum: which is better? We got a CNC and I think the guys are dying to do them on it but Inam leaning toward cro moly. That said some super thick aluminum (1.5in?) cut to shape on water jet as one solid piece might be just as easy but probably $$.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
That's the ticket if you ask me as well, I would add that if you do go with Chromoly, it really needs to be heat treated after any welding to return to full yield strength and reduce the chances of brittle fracture, but, in this application, you should be ok without it, especially if it's TIG welded with controlled heat input. Also, PTFE lined rod ends & uniballs to keep them quiet and squeak free.
One thing I don’t have it HT oven (though ironically I just built $1.6 million in heat treat equipment for an automotive plant 🤔). Guys assure me that tig weld plus slow cool (in sand I think??) will be fine. Also PTFE coating just for squeaks cause I don’t care about noise... Just strength
 

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One thing I don’t have it HT oven (though ironically I just built $1.6 million in heat treat equipment for an automotive plant 🤔). Guys assure me that tig weld plus slow cool (in sand I think??) will be fine. Also PTFE coating just for squeaks cause I don’t care about noise... Just strength
It will be fine if done that way, it's optimal to heat treat / stress relief them, but for the application, will be adequate. I'd go PTFE even if you aren't worried about noise lol,, those squeaks get damn annoying. Uniballs on the inner end will prevent excessive rotation front to rear of the arm (for high clearance / arched arms) , and keep it from rubbing on the chassis and bearing carrier. They are installed in a sleeve rather than being a high misalignment joint like a heim end.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I would copy these guys. Very well thought out and only the best materials.
Radius Rod Complete Kit RZR XP 1000 (Campbell Series)
Looks like a nice product unfortunately the one tool I DON’T have is a hydraulic tubing bender so high clearance round is a no go.
Drew up a heavily gusseted square type high clearance arm to be made of 4130 alloy this afternoon in auto cad... No CNC needed... Just purchased insert for hemi, uniball pressed into other end. Arm is tig welded sections of .065 wall square tube with solid full length front and rear gussets water jetted from a sheet of .1 4130 and additional .1 gussets covering weld point top and bottom.
Gains almost 2.5 in clearance over stock for majority of length and think it will be WAY stronger... I am actually on electrical side so don’t have solidworks to simulate stress (actually drew it in autocad electrical lol) but I will have mechanical engineer put it in solidworks tomorrow and simulate as well as get the machinists thoughts...

Thinking the arm will run me about $150 in steel and water jet time (I can get at cost) with our discount and labor is free so should be way better than super ATV and much cheaper.
 

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Uni-balls (also called spherical bearing) allow rotation in one plane and limited deflection in the plane 90 degree to the rotation plane. They will not allow the radius rods to rotate forward / backward.

Spherical Bearings – FK Rod Ends

I prefer FK JMX series over QA1 X series but the X series is a very good piece.
JMX / JFX – FK Rod Ends
Hey @RZR_Joe , what size heims does a xp4t need to fab a set of radius rods? I'm making a parts list and if I recall correctly its ⅝" heims? Misalignment spacers on each end?

I'm going with 1¼x.120 4130, I don't need extra clearance so going with a simple straight set.

EDIT: I think I have it figured out...
8 ea. - 5/8 JMX heims (4L & 4R)
8 ea. - 5/8 jam nuts (4L & 4R)
8 ea. - bungs (4L & 4R) for 1.25x.120
16 ea. - misalign spacers
8-9' - 1.25x.120 4130

Now after researching I see that it's clearly cheaper to just buy the radius rods in a kit... The above comes out to $430 not including the tube... But I've got a new TIG welder I'm itching to use so....

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5/8" is correct, I prefer the JMX10T because they have Teflon liners. The misalignment spacers are specific and different on each end. The hub side is critical because the overall width has to fit into the hub exactly. The frame side is not a true misalignment spacer but more like an adapter. I am at Windrock from now until Sunday. When I get home I can get you details and measurements.
 

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Definitely late to the party here. Just got home from windrock. Give nrp a call. I'm running his full billet setup on my rs1 with the fk upgrades. Was close to the same price as your parts list. I went through the same thing thinking I could make them cheaper myself. Turns out it's about the same to buy them.
650508
 

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Steel, aluminum, straight or formed shape, will all work.
Straight rods with FK JMX10T & JMX10LT rod ends installed on CrMo tubing Is my preference. You may need to adjust frame side rod end size depending upon bolt size if not M10. Straight rods allow fine tuning of camber whereas spherical bearing on frame side with a non-straight member limits you to half turn fidelity of lower rod ends at wheel hub side. If non-straight lower, set distance, and use upper rod with left hand and right hand rod ends to set camber. When rod ends wear out / damaged, thread off / on new rod ends; no pressing out / in new spherical bearings. No need to compensate for width of spherical bearing and required snap ring retention. Properly engineered rod size and misalignment spacers is critical to prevent contact with frame. Suppliers, like Kartek, can customize a rod length with proper thread form with no welding required. A spare upper and lower straight rod can be readily field replaced. If you do happen to bend a straight, steel rod, you can readjust overall length. Aluminum may develop crack / fracture from impact due to lower ductility and yield strength. Aluminum and / or formed lower radius arms may end up being heavier than the CrMo straight tubing due to lower yield strength of aluminum, or added bending moment stresses requiring gussets or greater sectional thickness to achieve same load carrying capacity. Contact stress area needs to be verified when using the spherical bearing arrangement. A fabricated radius rod retention plate (two plates separated by an integral welded spacer) can also add stiffness for load sharing. You can achieve double shear strength of the fasteners on the frame side if the fabricated retention plate is welded to the frame. The straight rods won’t look as sexy as an aluminum billet lower though.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Definitely late to the party here. Just got home from windrock. Give nrp a call. I'm running his full billet setup on my rs1 with the fk upgrades. Was close to the same price as your parts list. I went through the same thing thinking I could make them cheaper myself. Turns out it's about the same to buy them. View attachment 650508
Thanks. I will call them. Things have got busy so I just cut my Hemis off the old one, had the guys put a beefy piece of DOM tube into the lathe and open up the ends to accept the hemis and welded it all up to make a quick and dirty straight one for the time being... Way stronger than stock and hasn't taken any damage on 2 rides cause of beefier tube but not high clearance.
 

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5/8" is correct, I prefer the JMX10T because they have Teflon liners. The misalignment spacers are specific and different on each end. The hub side is critical because the overall width has to fit into the hub exactly. The frame side is not a true misalignment spacer but more like an adapter. I am at Windrock from now until Sunday. When I get home I can get you details and measurements.
Hope you're having a blast and your RZR is performing flawless @RZR_Joe !! I was just watching an episode of Extreme Off Road and the host Ian was out there at Windrock wheeling, looks like a fun place!

I would greatly appreciate your input when you do have the chance.

I see that the frame side can have an increased width because the back plate is loose. Stock width is about 1-1/8", new heims with misalignment spacers are 1-3/8". Is it okay to increase this dimension between frame and plate or must the spacers be ground down?? I will be making a new plate as shown below, thanks Joe, the file is spot on! I will also add some plating/gussets to weld plate to frame.

The hub side has to be exactly 1". Should I find a .625 OD, .5 ID round tube for a spacer? Heims are 3/4" wide.

Also, there is a little bit of slop with the stock 12mm bolts in the new heims, should I get new grade 8 1/2" bolts for all connections??

EDIT: So after more digging I found some more info, I was able to figure out that yes, I need some special spacers on the wheel side and this place has the set:

@Duncanstives I hope you don't mind me piggy backing of your thread. If you do, I will be glad to start my own thread. I know our machines are different, but it's sometimes nice to have the information packed together.


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If those bungs are fully threaded, be careful with your heat input into them. I found that out the hard way when I did my 4-link in my truck. The heat will shrink/distort the threads and you won't be able to thread your joints in nicely, if at all. You really only need to do a butt weld between the bung and the end of the tube, don't pretend its a pipe weld with a root/fill/cap. The strength of the just the butt weld will far exceed what tensile forces will be present in that radius rod.
 
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