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Discussion Starter #1
Looks like I need to replace the starter soon on my 2018 RZR XPT and looks like the starter is tucked up behind lots of stuff and hard to reach. Is the easiest way to go in from the side of the motor by removing the exhaust header pipe and heat shield? Or should I go in from the top? If the top is best, I'm not sure what all needs to come off to get to the starter.

Also, it looks like the OEM starter is $400 to $500. I keep seeing ads on ebay and amazon for other brand starters with same p/n (4014548) for only $100 to $200, but those ads don't mention the 2018 XPT. So I'm not sure if they are compatible or not. Thoughts?

Any advice or tips would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Looks like I need to replace the starter soon on my 2018 RZR XPT and looks like the starter is tucked up behind lots of stuff and hard to reach. Is the easiest way to go in from the side of the motor by removing the exhaust header pipe and heat shield? Or should I go in from the top? If the top is best, I'm not sure what all needs to come off to get to the starter.

Also, it looks like the OEM starter is $400 to $500. I keep seeing ads on ebay and amazon for other brand starters with same p/n (4014548) for only $100 to $200, but those ads don't mention the 2018 XPT. So I'm not sure if they are compatible or not. Thoughts?

Any advice or tips would be greatly appreciated.

Why do you think it’s going bad?

You sure it’s not the bolts backing out and getting stuck?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
For the last few months, the starter will sometimes fire up right away when I hit the ignition key and other times it does nothing. Seems to be happening more frequently lately, and occurs especially once the motor is warmed up. I replaced the battery and that did nothing. So now I'm thinking it is either a bad solenoid, bad ground for the solenoid (which I plan to clean up tomorrow so I can rule that out), or a bad starter. To be clear, the starter does not drag or turn slowly when it turns over. So it either fires up like normal, or doesn't turn over at all... very random. Thoughts?
 

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For the last few months, the starter will sometimes fire up right away when I hit the ignition key and other times it does nothing. Seems to be happening more frequently lately, and occurs especially once the motor is warmed up. I replaced the battery and that did nothing. So now I'm thinking it is either a bad solenoid, bad ground for the solenoid (which I plan to clean up tomorrow so I can rule that out), or a bad starter. To be clear, the starter does not drag or turn slowly when it turns over. So it either fires up like normal, or doesn't turn over at all... very random. Thoughts?
I would pull the stator cover and look to see if any of the heads have broken off. I can’t see the starter going bad unless it sees a lot of water mud etc. Do a search on the broken bolt on the starter. One of the heads might be getting caught when starting etc. Just a thought.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the tip. I'll read up on that some more. I thought the broken bolt was reported when the starter SPINS, but didn't catch on the flywheel. My issue is that the starter sometimes does NOT spin at all... just hear one click.

FWIW, the starter has started slow (not that the starter spun the motor slow, but rather it seemed to delay turning over) ever since I bought it new 1.5 years ago. But early this year I started noticing it not turning over at all sometimes, which is very annoying at the starting line of a XC race! Grrr.

Just curious... is it possible to remove the starter without removing the stator cover?
 

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Before I replaced a starter, I would do some volt drop testing. Battery cables (both), starter solenoid & starter wiring. Check ground wiring as well.

Should be less than .1 volt. If more, you have a poor connection somewhere.

Google volt drop testing. Its really easy to do.

I have personally repaired two RZR's that multiple parts where tossed at vehicles and the problem was the main ground connection. You have to pull the skid plates. Its a stud, in front of the engine in the frame cross member. Just to the drivers side of the prop shaft. You can see it from the drivers side below the sway bar from the drivers side rear wheel well.

Its a stud screwed into the crossmember with all the grounds stacked on top of the stud and a nut. Usually, the stud has come loose from the crossmember.
 

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How a solenoid works. It has a flat plate that gets slammed against the battery post to power the starter. Each time there is a electric arc of high amps that can erode the plate. Most plates are round and rotate on its shaft. When the arc is enough high spots are built up. When bad enough it will keep the plate from contacting the battery contacts. Hit key again plate may rotate to a good spot and starter works. Next time it depends on how the plate rotates and makes contact if the starter works or not. Your starter spins and easily starts the motor when ti works. Solenoid is the most likely problem and as you say, easier and cheaper to change.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Today, I cleaned the main ground connection and the terminals on the solenoid, but that made no difference. Still acts up sometimes when I try to start it.

Then I checked the voltage on my (brand new) battery when starting the motor... it seemed ok. Dropped about 1 volt (from 12.6 to 11.6 for just a quick second and then went up to 14.2 - 14.4 at idle).

Next, I removed the solenoid and ran an ohms test while adding 12V to it per the Service Manual instructions. The manual says 0 to 0.5 ohms is ok and above 0.5 is bad and needs to be replaced. It registered 0.5 for a split second on my meter. But the odd thing was my solenoid would sometimes click on and off while I consistently applied 12V to it. I thought it should only click once and stay that way til I remove the 12V. So I'm guessing it is a bad solenoid. Tomorrow morning, I plan to order a new solenoid and a new starter relay just to be safe from my local dealer. I normally order parts online, but I need these parts soon b/c I have a XC race this Sunday. I hope the dealership can get these parts by Friday so I can get it installed before my race. I'll report back if this solves my problem. Thx again to everyone for the info above.
 

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There are two separate circuits in a starter solenoid. A pull in circuit and a hold in circuit. They do just as you would expect. One high draw to close the contacts and a lesser draw to hold the contacts together until the engine starts and power is turned off. Sounds like the hold in circuit is bad.
 

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brake switch? next time it doesn't start keep the key turned to the start position and let off the brake and apply it firmly a few times and see if it starts.
 

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Mine did the same thing. It was the key cylinder. New cylinder and keys from Rocky Mountain was about $28 and took about 10 minutes to replace. Try turning and holding the key when it doesn't crank. Then wiggle the key. Mine would crank if I pushed the key a certain way while turning it.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Mine did the same thing. It was the key cylinder. New cylinder and keys from Rocky Mountain was about $28 and took about 10 minutes to replace. Try turning and holding the key when it doesn't crank. Then wiggle the key. Mine would crank if I pushed the key a certain way while turning it.
Thanks! I need to try that.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
UPDATE:
I installed a new OEM Solenoid today and it did NOT fix my problem.

Just to recap everything I've done so far:
1) Replaced Battery
2) Replaced solenoid
3) Replaced the Starter Relay in the fuse box
4) Removed/cleaned the connection for the brake sensor switch (also tried pumping the brake pedal when it wouldn't start)
5) Removed/cleaned the main ground bolt on the frame (near the starter solenoid).

Other than getting a new ignition key/cylinder as recommended above by ricepow, the only thing left is a new starter (which I'm not happy about b/c that is an expensive part and looks like a pain to get to it).

I'll see if I can wiggle the starter like ricepow suggested and see what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Okay... just took it for a spin around the block b/c my starting issue only happens after engine is warm. Got home and killed the engine. When I tried to crank it, it didn't turn over (as usual), so I held the key to the far right and wiggled the key. That worked! I did that 2 more times and each time it wouldn't turn over, I could wiggle the key (or push it in) and it would turn over and start right up. So that appears to be my problem. I'll order new key cylinder and ignition key asap. Thanks guys!!!
 
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