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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Went to put on my new wheels today and first one went as planned but thought the lug nuts seemed a little stubborn. Went to take the second one off and the first nut seemed stubborn also. Freaking stud turned in the aluminum hub! Cant get the SOB wheel off! I am up in the mountains at our summer get away with limited tools. Now I have to load this sucker up and take it home. Have to remove the wheel and hub as one and try to drill out the stud from the back side. Dont know if I can save the hub or not. Anyone else seem to have stubborn lug nuts? 90lbs of toque on the nuts seems a little much.
 

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Did you install them with an air gun??? I screwed up several studs on the spacers I was using starting the lugs with an air impact. Now I start them all by hand.

Sounds like it's been cross threaded. Bummer.
 

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I would imagine that you said a few kind words...:rofl3:. Like bagman said, I always start the nuts by hand ...I have a 09 s and I do not tighten to 90 lbs...Hell, I don't use a torque wrench either....I'm going to catch flak for saying this...I put A LITTLE dab of wheel bearing grease on each stud when the vehicle ( car , truck , whatever ) is new. As a result have never had a problem with lug nuts or studs....Now , I know your not supposed to do that.....Maybe I've been lucky, but In 50 years of driving have never had one come loose....I did it to my rzr as well.....:ride:
 

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I would imagine that you said a few kind words...:rofl3:. Like bagman said, I always start the nuts by hand ...I have a 09 s and I do not tighten to 90 lbs...Hell, I don't use a torque wrench either....I'm going to catch flak for saying this...I put A LITTLE dab of wheel bearing grease on each stud when the vehicle ( car , truck , whatever ) is new. As a result have never had a problem with lug nuts or studs....Now , I know your not supposed to do that.....Maybe I've been lucky, but In 50 years of driving have never had one come loose....I did it to my rzr as well.....:ride:
Instead of grease you might try anti sieze compound. Doesn't lubricate like grease but prevents corrosion, especially on dissimilar metals. Works great on spark plugs that are screwed into aluminum heads to.

As for the spinning lug, when you get the hub off tack a nut on the back of the lug, that way you can hold it while you spin the nut off the front. Do they make oversize lugs? If not you might try packing some try JB Weld in the hole with a new lug before you toss the hub.
 

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Family, it's about time
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OHH I've been there done that. When I bought my first rzr I went to put a set of paddles on it one of the studs was seized on. I had just enough space behind the lugnut (because it had loosened a few turns) to wedge something back there to provide enough outward force while I tried to loosen the lug, but the lugnut was seriously seized and the stud ended up twisting off. I just assumed the guy before me had cross threaded or overtorqued. Then one night at about 10:30 with a million other things to do to head to the dunes in the morning I went to change to paddles. This time one of the studs twisted in the hub just like yours did. I know they were not over torqued at all. Like the big overgrown monkey that I am with no other choice I took the other 3 lugnuts off and began using the wheel as leverage to bend the stud back and forth. I figured if the stud broke the hub there I wasn't really much worse off than bagging my trip over it, so it was worth a try. IT WORKED PERFECTLY. After a few minutes of wiggling the wheel back and forth the stud broke and it popped right out. Luckily I was smart enough after the first lugnut incident to buy a couple spare studs and nuts. I looked around my garage for someting to put on the lugnut so it would fit tight in the hub. After a few failed attempts I found a roll of plumbing soft solder. I rolled some out then flattened it with a hammer so it would fit tight in the hub. I tapped new stud in and it fit nice and snug. The solder is soft enough to form around the stud and hold it really well. My last minute fix has worked well and I have changed the tires many times since with no problems. I should probably buy a new hub to keep around for the next time.
 

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I've backed off to 80 ft/lb max as well. 90 is just stupid IMO for these 3/8" studs. I mean, cars and trucks have 1/2" studs and 100 ft/lb is the norm there. :question:
 

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Did you install them with an air gun??? I screwed up several studs on the spacers I was using starting the lugs with an air impact. Now I start them all by hand.

Sounds like it's been cross threaded. Bummer.
Nascar doesn't start um by hand.:popcorn:
The beginning part of the stud on a Nascar wheel isn't threaded to get the nut started. Many other things have prolly gone into them being able to slam them on so fast.

It amazes me how fast the guy can index the tire on the studs. Tire and wheel weigh 70 lbs each.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Always start 'em by hand. I generally never-seize steel bolts, spark plugs, into aluminum but by some stupid reason believed the owners manual about not lubing them. Have a used hub on the way but am going to backyard engineer the old hub before it comes in.
 

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Irony..... Just went through a similar trip last week, removed wheels for service and upon replacing the left rear the lug nuts wouldn't torque to 90. One spun in hub,all were started by hand and run down by hand. Replaced spun stud and pinned replacement with roll pin, then a different stud pulled threads, I ended up replacing all the studs.
the first thought was the torque wrench was at fault but it checked out ok. Seems as though some of these studs may have bad heat treat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Madhouse, did you use the stock replacement studs or did you find some others. Was going to hit the parts stores/tire shops and see if I can find one with a larger diameter at the "splines" a loc-tite 'em in.
 

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Went to put on my new wheels today and first one went as planned but thought the lug nuts seemed a little stubborn. Went to take the second one off and the first nut seemed stubborn also. Freaking stud turned in the aluminum hub! Cant get the SOB wheel off! I am up in the mountains at our summer get away with limited tools. Now I have to load this sucker up and take it home. Have to remove the wheel and hub as one and try to drill out the stud from the back side. Dont know if I can save the hub or not. Anyone else seem to have stubborn lug nuts? 90lbs of toque on the nuts seems a little much.
I had the same problem, the polaris manuel sez to torque the lugs to 90 ft. lbs. Thats too much, I broke a lot of studs too. I've been putting mine at 45 ft.lbs. and had no more probs when changing from paddles to the other wheels...The manual also sez do not lubricate the threads...Went thru that problem too...
 

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Polaris recommends 90 ft-lbs on the alloy rims with tall acorn nuts because there's so much thread up inside the nut (instead of through it), plus the washerless tapered seat of the nut, that a lot of the torque you apply is wasted in friction. If you lube the stud & tighten to 90 you may break some studs because 90 really is WAY too much for a 3/8 bolt. I lube & tighten to 50 and have never had one loosen.
 
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