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Project Apex RZR. Progression and pics.

14K views 53 replies 15 participants last post by  Sasquatch Offroad  
#1 · (Edited)
Starting to get some pieces together for doing an Apex turbo in my 14, 1000. Bought a 2008 Apex full mod sled with 700 miles on it. Motor is done with JE pistons, Carrillo rods, valve springs, mild port job, 2871 turbo, etc, etc. I'm gonna tear the motor down (since it has ran as high as 23lbs of boost) and go through it, but it shouldn't need anything. Hope this project goes smooth:rofl3::)
 

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#5 ·
I think only an admin can "move" it. I would just repost in the correct section so it gets the exposure to the guys that care and let this one die. I rarely ever look in the "general" section and only noticed your thread because it was on the "active" list right after you posted it.
 
#4 ·
Looks fine to me keep going
 
#9 ·
Looking forward to this, captjacksparrow. Been down the same path you are about to go through, just a different engine is all.
Couple of requests:

-lots of pictures! we all love pictures and details. You would be surprised how sometimes reading through your own thread and thoughts can trigger solutions for issues you are currently having or will run into.

-Ditch the "fuel controller". those fuel boxes are just a waste of time in my opinion. I mean that in the most respectful way and do not want to step on toes here. At a bare minimum get yourself a PCV/autotune. Although its a piggy back system, there is allot of support through dynojet as well as plenty of knowledgeable members on here that can help get you started! Plus its fuel and ignition control, not just fuel.
Of course a standalone would be best, the pcv is probably your best bang for the buck out there.
 
#12 ·
I don't like the PC-5 box. I like to be able to add and subtract fuel when I'm out riding. PC-5 is too adjustable and I hate the laptop thing every time you have to fine tune. I've built a lot of turboed custom Apex sleds and I always used the Dobeck style box and had very good luck with them.
I bought an engine cradle motor mount off a local guy that wasn't going to use it. It was for a 900. I have some modding to do. The front motor mount cross tube must sit way higher on the 900. The part of the cradle that mounts to the cross piece sits about 4" above it on the 1000 and about an inch behind, when the cradle is sitting right down on the frame. Oh well, I'm sure it's not the first snag I'm going to run into, LOL. I'll get some pics later, been working. :)
 
#13 ·
sweet! I understand what you mean about just wanting to go out and play, and not fiddle with a laptop lol.

maybe you could place that cradle set up in the 1k chassis, may give us all a better idea of what your up against, fitment issues etc?

This is my favorite part!! A big thumbs up for tackling this project, I've always liked the sound of a nasty apex!
 
#14 ·
Has anyone ran the Boondocker Rip Tied secondary with an Apex? I'm a little worried about top speed. I don't need a 100mph but I would like north of 80. I know Broken-1 was running a different secondary and only had 69mph, at one point. I messaged him but haven't heard back. I can't imagine not getting god MPH out of the Rip Tied?
 
#15 ·
Got the engine mount installed in the chassis. Got the motor installed in the mount and the clutches lined up etc. The motor mount saddle was for a 900 so the front mount had to be modded to work. Mounted the gauge. I'm gonna run the stock gauge and harness all stock as well as the Apex gauge for tach and engine monitoring. Everything on the stock gauge works good. Fuel gauge, 4X4, speedo, temp gauge(had to use the Apex sender) The power steering is about the only thing that won't work but I'm gonna address that later.(hopefully Hawk's fix works with the Apex)
 

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#16 ·
Didn't know if you realized it but your missing the cylinder head! ha, ha....

I ended up going the SuperATV steering unit - works awesome and can not tell the difference from the factory unit. Besides the work its probably a cheaper solution as you can sell the factory unit for about what you'll pay for the SuperATV unit.

Oh, and if you haven't already, NOW is the time to go through and replace all those bearings in the trans and possibly do my oil mod. I just did ALL 12 bearings in my new trans this weekend. Seems a shame to throw away 12 brand new OEM bearings but oh well!

Sounds like you might be in to making your own header to put the turbo where you want. I did a schedule 40 stainless header for my 900. It was a project and a half. Makes a STRONG header but the only thing I didn't like was how much heat it retained. That mass of metal would glow for 10 minutes after stopping - off course I've noticed my short factory Z1 cast manifold does the same.
 
#22 ·
Got the turbo mocked up pretty much where I want it. I'm gonna build the header out of the header that came on the sled. Will be a lot cheaper and fairly easy. Have to move the waste gate actuator and the charge tube spigot.
 

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#24 ·
Is the header going to be rigid between head and turbo? I know the trans and engine are "solid" mounted but I think I would be reluctant to rigid mount. I had SOOOOO many header problems with my 900 setup. The Z1 is rigid with its cast manifold but it is technically mounted to the engine. Maybe once header is complete fab a support bar from top of turbo to top of head? Then you will only have to worry about thermal expansion / contraction.

not trying to tell you how to do it. just throwing ideas out. Sometimes I get stuck in one train of thought and a little nudge from one of you guys turns the "light" on you could say.

Keep up the good work & progress.
 
#25 ·
It will have a secondary support off the motor when it's done. The support from the transaxle now, is just for fabbing the header. Thanks though, I appreciate the input for sure! I've built a lot of custom installs etc but never a RZR and I could easily miss something.
 
#27 ·
Got the header, turbo and exhaust all built and mocked up. Still have to clean up the pipes and wrap the header etc but it's coming along slowly but surely. :)
 

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