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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
I replaced mine at 500 miles. I never bothered to adjust the preload. I just got new springs. I still put it in the “want” not the “need” category.

I classify a need as something you can’t do without. You can drive it as it is with crappy tenders.
Yeah, I can see the want and need argument..... I'm just one of those guys who wants it right. So when it came from the factory with virtually no sag, I guess I kinda expect it should stay that way for awhile longer than it has. I looked at it from the back and can't help but think of those guys in the south with the rear end of their truck dragging ass!!! LoL! But you're right, it can be driven the way it is, it's not an emergency that has to be addressed immediately. Unless I missed it, what springs did you get?? Were they calculated for a little extra like cargo box, Spare tire and stuff like that!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
Awso
The ecu commands the fan on based off of coolant temp, however the ecm doesn't send full current to the fan. The power to the fan is sent through a relay.

The relay is in the panel under the arm rest. the little cup in the arm rest just sits in there so pop it out and the fan relay in on the drivers side. it's be easier to test if you just pull the arm rest out.
Cool! Thanks!! Going to look into that tomorrow morning. I did find the fuse in that area the first time it got hot. Replaced it and that's when I noticed the fan "trying" to start but didn't. This time, no blown fuse though......I need to check/change the air filter anyway so your suggestion of removing the arm rest/ back panel is a good point!
Also, if the ecm doesn't send a full 12v to the fan, I guess it would be wise to jump it with 12v to test operation? Better to rely on voltage AFTER relay and if the fan does kick on or spin. It's the fan. Haven't gotten my manual yet, but do you know what that voltage should be?
 

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Yeah, I can see the want and need argument..... I'm just one of those guys who wants it right. So when it came from the factory with virtually no sag, I guess I kinda expect it should stay that way for awhile longer than it has. I looked at it from the back and can't help but think of those guys in the south with the rear end of their truck dragging ass!!! LoL! But you're right, it can be driven the way it is, it's not an emergency that has to be addressed immediately. Unless I missed it, what springs did you get?? Were they calculated for a little extra like cargo box, Spare tire and stuff like that!!
I went with Shock Therapy. They asked for tons of info on driver and passenger weight, tools, coolers, spare tire, driving style, terrain we drive…

No regrets. Easy install, and a big improvement in ride quality.
 

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Thanks for the reassurance! However, I haven't been able to locate a relay on any parts diagram, could it possibly be controlled by the ECU by way of the temp. sensor????
It absolutely could. You can verify this by checking the connector at the fan.

How many wires?
With the key on, is there always voltage present?
Is there ground present?

I wish I had read this post while I was still at work. That’s where my service manual is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
I went with Shock Therapy. They asked for tons of info on driver and passenger weight, tools, coolers, spare tire, driving style, terrain we drive…

No regrets. Easy install, and a big improvement in ride quality.
Thanks! I'm pretty sure that's the route I'll go.
 

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Sorry to hear about your issues but really if you step back and look at it the pro xp has been pretty damn reliable even with the 1st year runs. I get what your saying about shelling out that kind of money just to have to put out more to make it reliable. But look at it this way, polaris essentially puts out a base model machine no matter what trim you choose. Then it's up to you to set it up for what your going to do w it. Most likely that is going to take anywhere from 2-5k for the average person.
I mostly ride enduro bikes and the sxs thing is more a side pleasure. With those things a bike costs 10-12k and your going to put 2k minimum on it before its even rideable for the average person. Suspension springs being absolutely the 1st thing done unless you weigh 150lbs. Funny thing is, no one ever complains about this as it's just accepted as being an expense of getting a new bike. I think maybe some of these dealers should maybe try and educate new owners on the importance of some of the aftermarket products for these machines and how some of them are really necessary more than optional.
 

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Can't believe that only one other person with a 2020 PRO XP(Ultimate) is experiencing this problem and that there is no definitive answer to the question. 66 hrs, around 1600 miles and it's overheating. Fan isn't coming on. My first concern is that when you drop just about $30k on something, you really shouldn't expect these kind of problems. But they continue to peddle this crap and yet we happily wait for it.......This is nothing new in the Polaris community, but damnit, it's frustrating. So where do I start? What's the common go to? Relay? fan? It's tough to swallow that after spending that kind of money and with just about a week and a half a riding time I need to upgrade springs $900, wheel bearings, $280, brake pads $90, tires $500-$800, intake/charge tube kit $500, possibly a radiator fan $420. And don't even get me started on the B.S. Frog skins material on the intake and clutch boxes that you can only replace the whole assembly on..... I would just one time like to ride it longer than I work on it. Just once. Any help out there!!!????
I would say it is the fan relay. For your frog skins. Bend a piece of lite gauge sheet metal and rivet it on. Make it have about a half inch between the frog skin and the metal. I did mine and works fine. No tears from branches.
 

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Ok, ok!!! You guys are tough on a guy!!! Now that the whining and complaining is past, I'll answer some of your questions to see what is left.
Radiator is good and fairly clean. When quoting prices I really meant to say fan which I think is $416. Ouch. But when letting the temp. Come up at idle, at about 195° I saw the fan "try" to move but didn't. So obviously the fuse, relay and or temp switch are working. Haven't had a chance to pull the fan but it turns by hand, just not as easy as maybe it should??? It doesn't feel like it's rubbing on anything or loose like a bad bearing. It spins just not super freely..... If that makes any sense? The other stuff I bitched about, I can handle! Does anyone know if the fan rate on these are higher due to them having to pull through two cooling unit?? Or can a fan from another machine that is approximately the same circumference be made to work.(I ask because I have one on hand)

I'm learning that about the first year issue, just didn't think there would be that drastic of a change considering most of the "bigger" problems have plagued most every line of RZR since inception. And I know alot of it comes down to Polaris economics. Yes, the tire wear is mostly hard packed gravel roads, so I get that and coulda/shoulda rotated been rotated more. And the springs which apparently alot of these guys don't understand how they work....... When the crossover spring collapses prematurely because the spring rate is to low or week, you have to unfortunately maintain ride height by adjusting preload. At some point your cross over springs become useless and over taxes the rest of the shock system. Yes, aftermarket springs are the fix if you don't want your suspension sagging and want it to perform the way FOX or Walker Evans designed it...... NOT the penny pinchers at Polaris Corporate. All is good though, I love the machine, it makes me smile just looking at it!
What should be considered, but overlooked is the additional weight being added to the machine with upgrades, mods, tools, passenger weight, food&drink, etc. The manufacturer weight capacity is around 750 lbs. That’s not a lot. When your machine is overloaded, a lot can happen. Tires will wear quickly, suspension will need to be adjusted or upgraded, and brakes can fail. That’s not on Polaris, that’s on the rider. When you look into spring kits like the ones available from Shock Therapy, they ask about the upgrades, mods, tools, and passenger weight. We all love our mods but it comes with a price. When you upgrade the suspension, you kick the weak link to some other place on the machine. Pay attention to the payload capacity and how it relates to the weight of your upgrades.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
No, wasn't the relay, upon further inspection, the fan shroud wasn't completely "clipped" on to the radiator(s) causing it to be contorted. Enough so that the fan couldn't rotate freely enough to start. Is fine now. The others issues.....still irk me. But nothing we all can do about that!!! This may have been a "NEW" model for 2020. But the concept hasn't changed in the last two decades. Brakes, axles, and bearings have all been the same basic design since Polaris started making 4wd machines. Same with clutches, going way back to the first snowmobiles, that should be enough to be considered leaders in the industry and not have exploding clutch issues. In my opinion, there's just not enough R&D hours put into the finished product. BUT all things considered with the amount of machines produced, still a good product and a lot of fun. I'll put my share of abuse on it, smiling the whole time!
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
What should be considered, but overlooked is the additional weight being added to the machine with upgrades, mods, tools, passenger weight, food&drink, etc. The manufacturer weight capacity is around 750 lbs. That’s not a lot. When your machine is overloaded, a lot can happen. Tires will wear quickly, suspension will need to be adjusted or upgraded, and brakes can fail. That’s not on Polaris, that’s on the rider. When you look into spring kits like the ones available from Shock Therapy, they ask about the upgrades, mods, tools, and passenger weight. We all love our mods but it comes with a price. When you upgrade the suspension, you kick the weak link to some other place on the machine. Pay attention to the payload capacity and how it relates to the weight of your upgrades.
I agree with a lot of that for sure, but what I don't agree with is that it's not on Polaris. They've been in this game since the beginning, they know exactly what is going on and what people will and are doing with these machines. They choose to pump out products "just good enough" and are cashing in on it. Nobody builds the best machine, but I won't defend a company that expects us to pay for their mistakes. And continues to capitalize on those mistakes. Thankfully there are aftermarket companies that understand the need for better products that help us make things right, as well as make it fun to upgrade and personalize our machines to make them our own.
 

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Everyone is very helpful and knowledgeable here man but as you can see heavy users of the forum and long time members don’t need all the complaining about the problems just right to the issues and sharing as much info as possible. Never enough info, full specs on machine and all the details. Then more details..

Yeah it can be rough on here also but also the most helpful,, I think you learned a lot fast.

One issue at a time and if the radiator is clean and fluids are fine and flowing then the fan is definitely toast. Go Said you can see it trying to kick in at around 195, mine won’t kick on until over 205 or so and functions fine. I have a 2015 RZR XP 1000 yeah it always needs some help and the usual maintenance, they are definitely a handful.

Good luck and keep us posted., 1 thing at a time.
Ride hard and ride safe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Well I’m not going to be of much help but I believe I had the exact same problem as you are describing. My fan would attempt to turn on but struggle and kinda sporadic and then finally start spinning I was able to get this diagnosed when I was still under warranty because Polaris gave the 1 year warranty after the ride recall. I never did get an actual answer to why it did it. But where I first started that seemed to alleviate the issue for a while was I pulled one the the main fuses in the center console between the seats and cleaned and reset that.

My fan stopped working out on the trail while idling and I was using the winch so I had video and pictures of it not spinning and overheating. Maybe that’s why Polaris took care of it. Sorry no help but the fan was replaced and everything has been great since.
Sorry for the late response, but that's great info! Good stuff to think about and check.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Well I’m not going to be of much help but I believe I had the exact same problem as you are describing. My fan would attempt to turn on but struggle and kinda sporadic and then finally start spinning I was able to get this diagnosed when I was still under warranty because Polaris gave the 1 year warranty after the ride recall. I never did get an actual answer to why it did it. But where I first started that seemed to alleviate the issue for a while was I pulled one the the main fuses in the center console between the seats and cleaned and reset that.

My fan stopped working out on the trail while idling and I was using the winch so I had video and pictures of it not spinning and overheating. Maybe that’s why Polaris took care of it. Sorry no help but the fan was replaced and everything has been great since.
Sorry for the late response, but that's great info! Good stuff to think about and check
 
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