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Yes, and didn't they then also go with the HD bearings???? Anyone have issues yet on 21's with bearings before I upgrade my '20' with '21 hubs??
I'm not sure if they went with HD or not but I haven't had any issues with mine yet. The springs on the other hand are just about cooked lol. People think the stock Polaris setup is a dual rate but its not. A true dual rate has a crossover ring to stop the top spring from compressing and engage the second one. I think the Pro R and Turbo R are the first RZRs to come with true dual rate springs. Time will tell if they collapse also.

I adjusted my preload once to get close to 13" of clearance and it destroyed the ride. I couldn't imagine cranking them down farther to get to 14". Ill hopefully be doing a dual rate setup by the end of the year.
 

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completely out of preload adjustment and are using the crossover spring just as a spacer
That's all that spring is intended to do from the factory. It's not a tender spring, it's sole purpose is to keep the main spring in place at full droop.
 

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So if you don't think springs NEED to be replaced, just how much sag is acceptable before your completely out of preload adjustment and are using the crossover spring just as a spacer??????? That just makes it that much harder for the live action to perform as intended. Also it's a bitch to maintain 14-14-1/2" ride height with soft saggy springs.......Not my first suspension rodeo!!!!!!
I changed tenders on my rear spring but they weren't fully collapsed. I also got some for the front, but had to put way too much preload in so i put the stockers back in and they are still doing fine. My thoughts are that polaris is probably still under a contract with a spring manufacturer more than likely in china. The pro springs are better than any previous model that i've had. The 800 S models would go from 12" of ground clearance to about 6" in a week. The tenders on the 900/1000 models would crush within a few miles.
 

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2021 RZR Pro XP 4
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I have a set of ‘21 pxp4 springs with~75 miles that you can have for the cost of shipping.

My brother had a fan issue last year on his sportsman atv that sounds similar to your situation. A bunch of junk got into the bearings and it wouldn’t spin freely, burning up the fan motor. A replacement was big bucks and he found an automotive almost equivalent for like 25% of the cost of a Polaris one. Just something to consider if the fan is bad.
 

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That's all that spring is intended to do from the factory. It's not a tender spring, it's sole purpose is to keep the main spring in place at full droop.
That may be their intention, but if it is the "short spring" has too high of a rate because if its not collapsed it does act as a tender and gives you a much softer spring rate. I also assume most of the conversation revolves around the rear shocks. I don't see the front tender springs going into spring bind in a static state without many inches of preload.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
I'm not sure if they went with HD or not but I haven't had any issues with mine yet. The springs on the other hand are just about cooked lol. People think the stock Polaris setup is a dual rate but its not. A true dual rate has a crossover ring to stop the top spring from compressing and engage the second one. I think the Pro R and Turbo R are the first RZRs to come with true dual rate springs. Time will tell if they collapse also.

I adjusted my preload once to get close to 13" of clearance and it destroyed the ride. I couldn't imagine cranking them down farther to get to 14". Ill hopefully be doing a dual rate setup by the end of the year.
The set up on the live action I Know doesn't function the way a good crossover ring/spring should, and I question it's effectiveness especially with weaker springs. M considering the Shock Therapy set up. My son has the ZBros on his, took the sag right out. Only just recently installed so m curious to see how he likes them before I commit to buying the ST......
 

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2020 Polaris RZR Pro XP Premium
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Ok, ok!!! You guys are tough on a guy!!! Now that the whining and complaining is past, I'll answer some of your questions to see what is left.
Radiator is good and fairly clean. When quoting prices I really meant to say fan which I think is $416. Ouch. But when letting the temp. Come up at idle, at about 195° I saw the fan "try" to move but didn't. So obviously the fuse, relay and or temp switch are working. Haven't had a chance to pull the fan but it turns by hand, just not as easy as maybe it should??? It doesn't feel like it's rubbing on anything or loose like a bad bearing. It spins just not super freely..... If that makes any sense? The other stuff I bitched about, I can handle! Does anyone know if the fan rate on these are higher due to them having to pull through two cooling unit?? Or can a fan from another machine that is approximately the same circumference be made to work.(I ask because I have one on hand)

I'm learning that about the first year issue, just didn't think there would be that drastic of a change considering most of the "bigger" problems have plagued most every line of RZR since inception. And I know alot of it comes down to Polaris economics. Yes, the tire wear is mostly hard packed gravel roads, so I get that and coulda/shoulda rotated been rotated more. And the springs which apparently alot of these guys don't understand how they work....... When the crossover spring collapses prematurely because the spring rate is to low or week, you have to unfortunately maintain ride height by adjusting preload. At some point your cross over springs become useless and over taxes the rest of the shock system. Yes, aftermarket springs are the fix if you don't want your suspension sagging and want it to perform the way FOX or Walker Evans designed it...... NOT the penny pinchers at Polaris Corporate. All is good though, I love the machine, it makes me smile just looking at it!
Fan should not only turn easy by hand, you should be able to spin it and it keeps going some. That sounds likely your issue.

However, I would also look at the relay. I have seen plenty of bad fans also take out a relay.
 

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So if you don't think springs NEED to be replaced, just how much sag is acceptable before your completely out of preload adjustment and are using the crossover spring just as a spacer??????? That just makes it that much harder for the live action to perform as intended. Also it's a bitch to maintain 14-14-1/2" ride height with soft saggy springs.......Not my first suspension rodeo!!!!!!
I replaced mine at 500 miles. I never bothered to adjust the preload. I just got new springs. I still put it in the “want” not the “need” category.

I classify a need as something you can’t do without. You can drive it as it is with crappy tenders.
 

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So if you don't think springs NEED to be replaced, just how much sag is acceptable before your completely out of preload adjustment and are using the crossover spring just as a spacer??????? That just makes it that much harder for the live action to perform as intended. Also it's a bitch to maintain 14-14-1/2" ride height with soft saggy springs.......Not my first suspension rodeo!!!!!!
So did you buy it used, or did you put 1600 miles on a new machine in a week and a half?
 

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same as K&M, had 500 miles on mine, and went with ST. I noticed my tenders were completely compressed at 50 miles on it, and it was sagging an inch or so. I didn't bother fighting with the factory springs, and my dealer even offered to replace them. I still chose ST knowing it would provide a better ride and i wouldn't have the issue. was it necessary... not at all. I just get fixated on stuff and want to change things.
 

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Well I’m not going to be of much help but I believe I had the exact same problem as you are describing. My fan would attempt to turn on but struggle and kinda sporadic and then finally start spinning I was able to get this diagnosed when I was still under warranty because Polaris gave the 1 year warranty after the ride recall. I never did get an actual answer to why it did it. But where I first started that seemed to alleviate the issue for a while was I pulled one the the main fuses in the center console between the seats and cleaned and reset that.

My fan stopped working out on the trail while idling and I was using the winch so I had video and pictures of it not spinning and overheating. Maybe that’s why Polaris took care of it. Sorry no help but the fan was replaced and everything has been great since.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Fan should not only turn easy by hand, you should be able to spin it and it keeps going some. That sounds likely your issue.

However, I would also look at the relay. I have seen plenty of bad fans also take out a relay.
Thanks for the reassurance! However, I haven't been able to locate a relay on any parts diagram, could it possibly be controlled by the ECU by way of the temp. sensor????
 

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2021 PRO XP ULTIMATE, 2015 XP1000. Sold 2013 800s LE, 2015 XP1000
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Ok, ok!!! You guys are tough on a guy!!! Now that the whining and complaining is past, I'll answer some of your questions to see what is left.
Radiator is good and fairly clean. When quoting prices I really meant to say fan which I think is $416. Ouch. But when letting the temp. Come up at idle, at about 195° I saw the fan "try" to move but didn't. So obviously the fuse, relay and or temp switch are working. Haven't had a chance to pull the fan but it turns by hand, just not as easy as maybe it should??? It doesn't feel like it's rubbing on anything or loose like a bad bearing. It spins just not super freely..... If that makes any sense? The other stuff I bitched about, I can handle! Does anyone know if the fan rate on these are higher due to them having to pull through two cooling unit?? Or can a fan from another machine that is approximately the same circumference be made to work.(I ask because I have one on hand)

I'm learning that about the first year issue, just didn't think there would be that drastic of a change considering most of the "bigger" problems have plagued most every line of RZR since inception. And I know alot of it comes down to Polaris economics. Yes, the tire wear is mostly hard packed gravel roads, so I get that and coulda/shoulda rotated been rotated more. And the springs which apparently alot of these guys don't understand how they work....... When the crossover spring collapses prematurely because the spring rate is to low or week, you have to unfortunately maintain ride height by adjusting preload. At some point your cross over springs become useless and over taxes the rest of the shock system. Yes, aftermarket springs are the fix if you don't want your suspension sagging and want it to perform the way FOX or Walker Evans designed it...... NOT the penny pinchers at Polaris Corporate. All is good though, I love the machine, it makes me smile just looking at it!
😇
Ok, you are a RZR mechanic. Sometimes I drink and text too. (like maybe last night)
I have been very happy with stock Carnivores. You can't rotate because the rear wheels are wider than the front. On purpose to aid handling. The manual is wrong on front pressure. Use 16-18 psi to keep from breaking the front wheels.
The tender spring is designed to compress to coil bound. It is only there to keep the main spring from clanging on full extension. Polaris does not want softer true dual rate springs because of body roll and roll over risk. Yes keep adding preload to maintain ride height. Yes aftermarket springs are better but do both and get better main with crossover ring. But.... car will have more roll and be tippier.
 

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😇
Ok, you are a RZR mechanic. Sometimes I drink and text too. (like maybe last night)
I have been very happy with stock Carnivores. You can't rotate because the rear wheels are wider than the front. On purpose to aid handling. The manual is wrong on front pressure. Use 16-18 psi to keep from breaking the front wheels.
The tender spring is designed to compress to coil bound. It is only there to keep the main spring from clanging on full extension. Polaris does not want softer true dual rate springs because of body roll and roll over risk. Yes keep adding preload to maintain ride height. Yes aftermarket springs are better but do both and get better main with crossover ring. But.... car will have more roll and be tippier.
My car definitely doesn't have more roll after changing springs. Zbroz actually recommends removing the front sway bar when using their springs
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
😇
Ok, you are a RZR mechanic. Sometimes I drink and text too. (like maybe last night)
I have been very happy with stock Carnivores. You can't rotate because the rear wheels are wider than the front. On purpose to aid handling. The manual is wrong on front pressure. Use 16-18 psi to keep from breaking the front wheels.
The tender spring is designed to compress to coil bound. It is only there to keep the main spring from clanging on full extension. Polaris does not want softer true dual rate springs because of body roll and roll over risk. Yes keep adding preload to maintain ride height. Yes aftermarket springs are better but do both and get better main with crossover ring. But.... car will have more roll and be tippier.
No, on mine, I put Turbo S wheels and tires on it, for that very reason. But no excuse for laziness, I'll admit.
 

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2021 PRO XP ULTIMATE, 2015 XP1000. Sold 2013 800s LE, 2015 XP1000
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My car definitely doesn't have more roll after changing springs. Zbroz actually recommends removing the front sway bar when using their springs
Yes it does. With the tenders in play (stoke until coil bind or crossover ring engaged) the spring rate will be less than the main alone. So.....more roll.
 

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2021 PRO XP ULTIMATE, 2015 XP1000. Sold 2013 800s LE, 2015 XP1000
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My car definitely doesn't have more roll after changing springs. Zbroz actually recommends removing the front sway bar when using their springs
[/QUOT

That's because you have higher rate front tender and main springs. The XP was not designed with a front sway bar. But too light front springs leading to customer demand caused it to be being added. Sprung properly it does not need one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
So did you buy it used, or did you put 1600 miles on a new machine in a week and a half?
Was new, but I equate the week and a half in terms of a work week, know what I mean??? So actual time on the clock is about 66 hrs.....Not really ridden hard, actually the opposite, but hard pack gravel....... mostly 2WD.
 

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Thanks for the reassurance! However, I haven't been able to locate a relay on any parts diagram, could it possibly be controlled by the ECU by way of the temp. sensor????
The ecu commands the fan on based off of coolant temp, however the ecm doesn't send full current to the fan. The power to the fan is sent through a relay.

The relay is in the panel under the arm rest. the little cup in the arm rest just sits in there so pop it out and the fan relay in on the drivers side. it's be easier to test if you just pull the arm rest out.
 
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