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Here is a real ife rough example of the top option
667361



Brb with option 2
667362
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I’ll play with it tomorrow but I believe I have a powered jumper cable running from 1 to 3 and it seems to be working. Also have powered cable on 2 and 5.

edit
So like it was mentioned above I can still skip power to #2 and just insulate it off. Are there any detrimental effects to have power running to #2 as well?
 

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If you want, i can open up a switch and show you why #2 won't be energized automatically...
Basically each side is completely separate unless it's a special switch. The rocker is only on one side. Some have dual rocker mechanisms but are still typically independent of each other unless it's a special switch.
 

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I’ll play with it tomorrow but I believe I have a powered jumper cable running from 1 to 3 and it seems to be working. Also have powered cable on 2 and 5.

edit
So like it was mentioned above I can still skip power to #2 and just insulate it off. Are there any detrimental effects to have power running to #2 as well?
If you have a test light or multimeter, you can check #2 but i can almost guarantee it wont have any power to it unless you put power directly to that terminal.

If for some unknown reason it does have power..which I'm sure it won't there is no harm as long as it's protected as you guys discussed earlier. But I'll bet lunch it doesn't have power if there's no physical connector to it.

What i do when im custom wiring these switches is to use the alligator clip jumpers to make sure I have everything in order before I waste crimp terminals 😉
 

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This would be a more accurate depiction.
The jumper from 1 to 3 is soldered to the power lead goin to 5

2021-02-18_213145.jpg


And in actuality I would do something like INFRNL's photo, so that there would be no more than (2) wires at a terminal.

As mentioned above, I always use the appropriate connector housing so that I can remove all the wires from a switch, without needing to remember which wire goes to which terminal.

2021-02-18_220146.jpg
 
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I was just thinking...do we have this backwards?
I don't have experience with your exact switch but on my Carling switches...what you are switching is usually the terminals on the left.

So power to 2, 1 winch in/out, 3 in/out.
Led power 4/6?

Man, I'm really messing my head all up.

I guess we'll find out tomorrow when you play with it.
 

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You should insulate 2. There will not be power there in a normal position, but it will energize when the switch is activated in either direction. Also a test light, DMM (digital multi-meter), and power probe are all very handy tools to have to help figuring out wiring and related components. I think a decent DMM is the most useful/versatile tool to have when dealing with this stuff. You can configure it in multiple ways to help troubleshoot and verify what's going on.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Wired power to 1,3 and 5. Winch in/out to 4/6. Insulated 2. Worked out great thanks for the help!!
 

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Glad you got it how you got it the way you wanted 👍
 

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If you have the same switch as FastnDirty:

Power to 2 and 5, Winch in/out to 4 and 6, Insulate 1 and 3.
 

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How wired if want the LED to come on when activated?
You would wire it like he had it originally. Pins4 would have to be jumped to pin 1 and pin 6 jumped to pin 3.

667666

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