[FastnDirty]

I installed a new Polaris HD 4500lbs winch today on my Polaris Pro XP. All was going smooth until I after I tested my rocker switch which was working initially. I cut the three wires from the circular hard wired remote to wire in a rocker switch. I didn't have the rocker switch wired in securely as I was going to mess with the wiring to ensure I could get it lit all the time---worked properly initially. Unfortunately one of the wires came off of the rocker switch contacting another wire and I heard a pop (like a large fuse) near the solenoid/contact box. The busbar 30amp fuse is fine and so is the 10 amp fuse that pops for accessory on the main fuse area.

Now when I try to use the rocker switch which is still lit up (all other accessories work) I just hear clicking near the solenoid/contact box. When I use the wireless remote the winch works just fine though.

If the wireless remote works does that mean the solenoid is working? Therefore I'm more leaning to thinking its the contact box which I believe party number wise is 5456014 per the instructions.

I tried a few different searches but didn't see anyone mention where their wireless remote works fine but their wired remote doesn't. Please help a newbie!

 

[madsonp]

Try pulling the switch apart and cleaning the contacts in it.

 

[FastnDirty]

Try pulling the switch apart and cleaning the contacts in it.

The toggle switch? Everything is new so should be good contacts. I should also mention the rocker toggle is lit.

 

[madsonp]

Yes the toggle switch, I usually have to clean mine about once a year, otherwise it does what yours is doing.

 

[FastnDirty]

I'll give it a good brush cleaning. I wonder why it would work, "pop" then not work. Can I jump these cables together at the toggle to make sure its not the solenoid?

 

[madsonp]

Use a pencil eraser to clean them, you can probably try to jump them to check the solenoid if you want.

 

[INFRNL]

Are you sure you have it hooked back up correctly at the switch?

You should have 4 wires to the switch. Ground, winch in, winch out, accessory power.

Just because the switch is lit doesn't mean you have the wiring correct. Just want to make sure you have it.

I don't remember the wire colors...black, green, yellow? Black should be ground. Then you can take a power jumper to either of the other wires and it should either just click or move the winch.

If it just clicks, it is probably because the automatic winch stop is stopping movement.

I don't know what switch you have.
The middle pin should be for acc power,
Pins on ea side of that is winch in/ winch out. Then ground for the switch led iirc.

If it's a dual led switch, then it can get trickier depending on the switch. You obviously had it working at one point... just trying to cover everything as we can't see what you have going on and can't be there to help

 

[FastnDirty]

Are you sure you have it hooked back up correctly at the switch?

You should have 4 wires to the switch. Ground, winch in, winch out, accessory power.

Just because the switch is lit doesn't mean you have the wiring correct. Just want to make sure you have it.

I don't remember the wire colors...black, green, yellow? Black should be ground. Then you can take a power jumper to either of the other wires and it should either just click or move the winch.

If it just clicks, it is probably because the automatic winch stop is stopping movement.

I don't know what switch you have.
The middle pin should be for acc power,
Pins on ea side of that is winch in/ winch out. Then ground for the switch led iirc.

If it's a dual led switch, then it can get trickier depending on the switch. You obviously had it working at one point... just trying to cover everything as we can't see what you have going on and can't be there to help

To trouble shoot I wired the switch how I had it initially. I also cleaned connections with eraser. It works just fine now. It "lights" winch in or winch out when I click up or down. I was trying to have it light both. So know I know, is the switch. I have a 7 pin MICTuning winch rocker switch. This has been discussed more in multiple threads now that I know its the switch. I almost feel like this thread should be moved to the electrical sub forum as now I know its user error messing up the wiring in at attempt to have it "always lit" when rzr is on. I'm going to attach a picture how I have it when it works and a second picture I found on here directing how to keep it lit the whole time.

I have 3 wires coming out a green, green with black line and an orange (power). The ground I set myself. I guess my only question is how do I move wires around to have 4 keyed hot? Do I need to splice the hot wire to 4 pigtails total off the one hot line and only use one solenoid wire for each winch in/winch out?

 

[INFRNL]

So, pins 1/3 are the positive for the leds?
You probably don't have the schematic of the switch.

Does the switch have and numbers on the side of it?

Just for clarity, you want both LEDs to light no matter what way you press, but you do not want it always lit up, correct?

 

[CrazyElecE]

this may help

this should help you figure out what the switch is doing (this is a standard 7 pin winch switch) if your switch is the same.

Typically one side is controlling the contactor and the other side the LEDs in the switch.

 

[CrazyElecE]

Just to add, you may have had issues with what you were doing as it may be backfeeding voltage to both circuits. Essentially when you press the switch in either direction, you are really pushing the switch in both directions at the same time.

 

[INFRNL]

After some thought... this is going to get tricky if you want both LEDs to light up when you push the switch either way... because the power is going to backfeed and try to operate the winch in both directions at the same time.

This can work using diodes or leds.

I think I use a different switch and it's a carling switch but it's different than the one you are using. I'll have to look, i don't remember what I did exactly but I had to mess with the wiring to get it to work as you currently have yours.

 

[INFRNL]

Looking at what you posted and the circuit diagram Crazy posted...

Pins 4,5,6 are for the circuit. Pins 1,3,7 are for the leds. Technically pin 2 doesn't need to be used... if I am thinking correctly.

Not knowing the exact details of the switch, I'm not sure but I'm almost certain.

So, a jumper from pins 1 to 3 is needed...but a diode has to be inline from pins 4 to 1 and 6 to 3. Otherwise the switch will backfeed and send power to pins 4 and 6 which will try to operate the winch in both directions.

I'm not sure why you would want both LEDs to light up. I prefer the side I'm pushing to light up.

 

[FastnDirty]

I made a jumper cable from pin 1 and pin 3 tapped to the orange power/source line. Its lit and seems to be functioning properly now. Unless I'm sending power where I shouldn't?

I'm sure I was having issues prior from having my wiring all wacky. Its fine now---I hold winch in, it goes in. I hold winch out, winch goes out. @CrazyElecE that diagram is exactly what my switch is wired like. I'll attach the diagram that came with the switch.

I only prefer it to light all the time so that it can be visible at night...maybe I'm the eccentric guy that prefers it that way

 

[INFRNL]

Oh, so you want it lit up all the time when you turn the vehicle on... well that should be easy then.

You'll just want your acc power to jump to one led, then to the next. If you can, make it so you only have 2 wires on each connector.

Then the rest of the switch should operate as if it didn't have leds at all

Your switch is momentary, correct? Or is it just on-off-on

 

[CA 800]

I think this is what you are looking for.

Power to 1 and 3 so both leds are always on,
Power to 5, switch will connect it to 4 or 6 when pushed up or down.
Ground to 7, for leds.
Nothing to 2, but insulate it since it will become hot when switch is activated.

 

[FastnDirty]

That’s it @CA 800 thanks! What should I insulate #2 with, electrical tape?

 

[CA 800]

I would use a piece of heat shrink tubing, or a crimp on connector (with no wire).
Electrical tape tends to fall off after a couple of years.

 

[INFRNL]

Thanks CA800... I didn't have time to draw something up. Also, i don't think pin 2 is energized from pin 5... that's why you had the jumper initially... Ea side of the switch is independent. Only 4/5/6 are tied together for switch operation.

To the op... I would recommend the factory style protectors. They even have the special connectors, not the speaker type.
I'll see if I can find a link.

Brb

Here's the housing you should use on all your switches. There are 8 terminal and 10 terminal typically.

High quality Carling Technologies custom laser-etched and ink printed rocker switches, using Carling Technologies Contura line of rockers and V-Series switches

Carling Technologies V-Series laser-etched and ink printed custom rocker switches, the standard in high quality rockers and switches for all of your auto and marine applications.

www.otrattw.net

Here's the terminal removal tool

High quality accessories for your auto and marine needs.

High quality accessories for you auto and marine needs

www.otrattw.net

Here are the proper switch terminals that should be used...come in different awg sizes.

High quality accessories for your auto and marine needs.

High quality accessories for you auto and marine needs

www.otrattw.net

 

[INFRNL]

I just looked at CA800's modified drawing.

The LEDs won't light up like that because there is no power feeding them.
You would have to either...run a jumper from 5 to 1, the also from 1 to 3
Or you can run an additional power wire to 1 then to 3.

I'll sketch up both options... BRB

I'm not an artist...i might have to see if i have a spare switch or housing to give you the real effect