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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I think the bearings are going out in my front diff or maybe It's time for new axles?

I have an unusual amount of play and I'm starting to hear noises when jumping.

Is there a repair kit?
What tools so I need?

Edit: the slop is there when you grab the axle and move it up, down, side to side. I have about 2000 miles on the front diff. Also it is weeping oil out the side with the wires.

Thx,
 

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Probably not the bearings in the diff but rather the splines are worn. This is fairly common if you do not remove and clean them on a regular basis. Could be the spines in the diff output hubs and/or axles. If it's leaking and the axles are sloppy sounds like it's time for some maintenance.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So replace the front diff and the axles?
Probably not the bearings in the diff but rather the splines are worn. This is fairly common if you do not remove and clean them on a regular basis. Could be the spines in the diff output hubs and/or axles. If it's leaking and the axles are sloppy sounds like it's time for some maintenance.
 

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No, maintenance to find the issue. Diff output hubs & seals can be replaced without replacing the whole diff, much cheaper also. Axles CVs can be replaced also. First step is to take it apart and figure out exactly where the slip is coming from.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
No, maintenance to find the issue. Diff output hubs & seals can be replaced without replacing the whole diff, much cheaper also. Axles CVs can be replaced also. First step is to take it apart and figure out exactly where the slip is coming from.
Where is the best place to order new hubs and seals, and new axle cvs? I don't want to lose a month or more of riding during the season, so I would want all parts on hand as I start removing stuff and investigating. Actually it sounds like I may as well replace it all anyways? I just don't have that much free time stretch this out.

Or should I just run it until the end of the season then try to figure it all out?

Are there stronger diff output hubs than factory? What should I do for the CVs?
 

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Like Joe said, the play is most likely in the splines, and it's usually the axle splines that wear before the output hubs, but both are possible, and a bit of routine maintenance can go a long way. The leak is probably from the freeze plug seal inside the diff on the output hubs, which is a common occurrence. Both those problem are fairly easy remedied by replace the axles (or the inner CV & cup at the least), and resealing the output hubs, which has been with success without removing or opening up the diff. Depending on what noises you're hearing, it may be the CV's starting to slip, or the sprague and armature plate in the diff beginning to wear out, and sometimes, they just make a little noise during normal function. The output hubs bearings aren't a huge area of concern and usually last quite well...most are replaced "just because" when someone is working in the front diff. The pinion bearing has been known to cause some issues, and is always a good idea to upgrade if you're in their, but it's not absolutely necessary as it may still last quite a while. You can go a lot of different directions with this topic lol.

The factory output hubs are pretty expensive, but usually do not need replaced. Going to a stronger output hub assembly gets you over $1000 in just the assembly pretty quick, but you can get from a place such as HD Extreme Off Road, both Joe & I run(or will be running) variants of their Stage 3 kit, and it's a solid product that can handle almost anything, but that comes with a price as well. Any OEM replacement parts are best sourced from Rocky Mountain ATV, as you can purchase any OEM part by diagram and their shipping and service is fantastic. The Rhino 2.0 is the best all around axle replacement for your dollar and can be bought from Super ATV, or a few other forum vendors.

For you, it comes down to how you want to address the situation, you can spend anywhere from <$100 to over $3000 in a front diff, and anything in between, axles range from $100-$800 each, the Rhino 2.0 I mentioned is a flawless axle for around $200 each. You may not need to spend anywhere near this much to address your problem, but you asked, so I'll let you know the options are out there. There's lots of threads and info that can be sourced on this forum for learning about it all. But form what you've said above, it sounds like just basic maintenance and maybe replacing an axle or two could get you buy.

Here's a couple good threads that might help get you headed in the right direction:

2017 XPT - front gearcase leak

Is this a differential bearing or axle issue?

Leaking front diff

Shaft Play at AWD Housing
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Like Joe said, the play is most likely in the splines, and it's usually the axle splines that wear before the output hubs, but both are possible, and a bit of routine maintenance can go a long way. The leak is probably from the freeze plug seal inside the diff on the output hubs, which is a common occurrence. Both those problem are fairly easy remedied by replace the axles (or the inner CV & cup at the least), and resealing the output hubs, which has been with success without removing or opening up the diff. Depending on what noises you're hearing, it may be the CV's starting to slip, or the sprague and armature plate in the diff beginning to wear out, and sometimes, they just make a little noise during normal function. The output hubs bearings aren't a huge area of concern and usually last quite well...most are replaced "just because" when someone is working in the front diff. The pinion bearing has been known to cause some issues, and is always a good idea to upgrade if you're in their, but it's not absolutely necessary as it may still last quite a while. You can go a lot of different directions with this topic lol.

The factory output hubs are pretty expensive, but usually do not need replaced. Going to a stronger output hub assembly gets you over $1000 in just the assembly pretty quick, but you can get from a place such as HD Extreme Off Road, both Joe & I run(or will be running) variants of their Stage 3 kit, and it's a solid product that can handle almost anything, but that comes with a price as well. Any OEM replacement parts are best sourced from Rocky Mountain ATV, as you can purchase any OEM part by diagram and their shipping and service is fantastic. The Rhino 2.0 is the best all around axle replacement for your dollar and can be bought from Super ATV, or a few other forum vendors.

For you, it comes down to how you want to address the situation, you can spend anywhere from <$100 to over $3000 in a front diff, and anything in between, axles range from $100-$800 each, the Rhino 2.0 I mentioned is a flawless axle for around $200 each. You may not need to spend anywhere near this much to address your problem, but you asked, so I'll let you know the options are out there. There's lots of threads and info that can be sourced on this forum for learning about it all. But form what you've said above, it sounds like just basic maintenance and maybe replacing an axle or two could get you buy.

Here's a couple good threads that might help get you headed in the right direction:

2017 XPT - front gearcase leak

Is this a differential bearing or axle issue?

Leaking front diff

Shaft Play at AWD Housing
Hey this is super helpful thanks, sounds like my best bet is to pull an axle this weekend and check the splines? Then order what I need. I guess it should run a bit longer.

I replaced the sprague with a directdrive one when I first got the Xp1000, i that what you mean by the pinion gear?

Or maybe I'll just run it and worry about it in the off season.

Posting this link for reference later, in case I need to tear back into the front diff.
 

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Hey this is super helpful thanks, sounds like my best bet is to pull an axle this weekend and check the splines? Then order what I need. I guess it should run a bit longer.

I replaced the sprague with a directdrive one when I first got the Xp1000, i that what you mean by the pinion gear?

Or maybe I'll just run it and worry about it in the off season.

Posting this link for reference later, in case I need to tear back into the front diff.
Yeah, pulling an axle out will let you look at everything, you can also rock the axle back and for in the hub and see how much slop you have, there will always be a little bit.

I am referring to the pinion bearing, it's the bearing on the rear of the diff where the driveshaft comes in, it is not related to the kind of sprague you have in there.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
I think I can get it out of the trailer this weekend to do some maintenance, but that means I won't have the parts anytime soon, so I will either need to just drive it or skip the next trip.

How are these All Balls Axles? They appear to be beefier than stock (I haven't broken a axle yeat, but I guess I'm wearing them out).


or are rhino axles that much better?
 

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I would not buy anything "All Balls" labeled. Yes Rhino 2.0s are that much better and the best performance value available when it comes to axles.
 

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I think I can get it out of the trailer this weekend to do some maintenance, but that means I won't have the parts anytime soon, so I will either need to just drive it or skip the next trip.

How are these All Balls Axles? They appear to be beefier than stock (I haven't broken a axle yeat, but I guess I'm wearing them out).


or are rhino axles that much better?
I have tusk axles for my spares and they seem like pretty good axles. As for rhino axles yea there probaly a good axles but I think it's stupid to pay that for a axle when you can get 3 for that price and it takes 20 mins to change a axle.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
I have tusk axles for my spares and they seem like pretty good axles. As for rhino axles yea there probaly a good axles but I think it's stupid to pay that for a axle when you can get 3 for that price and it takes 20 mins to change a axle.
Is all balls worse than tusk? The all balls axles are much cheaper and thicker than stock? I know they don't make the best bearings though. Heck Rhino is cheaper than stock too?

Right now I'm thinking to just replace all 4 with tusk brand, although I haven't checked the rears.
Then maybe add a couple of these:

And keep my worn out ones as spares? (I mean they should still work fine in a pinch)
 

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Is all balls worse than tusk? The all balls axles are much cheaper and thicker than stock? I know they don't make the best bearings though. Heck Rhino is cheaper than stock too?

Right now I'm thinking to just replace all 4 with tusk brand, although I haven't checked the rears.
Then maybe add a couple of these:

And keep my worn out ones as spares? (I mean they should still work fine in a pinch)
Yes you keep your worn out ones for spares to get you home or w e there would be nothing wrong with that and as for the axle clamps super atv has a set that I am going to get that may work better than the ones rocky mt. Has but maybe you like them better either way you have the right idea. I never did change my axles on my 900s it had 3500 miles when I traded it in. Me personally dont change axles until they break it may not be good practice but i dont.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yes you keep your worn out ones for spares to get you home or w e there would be nothing wrong with that and as for the axle clamps super atv has a set that I am going to get that may work better than the ones rocky mt. Has but maybe you like them better either way you have the right idea. I never did change my axles on my 900s it had 3500 miles when I traded it in. Me personally dont change axles until they break it may not be good practice but i dont.
Yea I'm getting the I wants for a a new RzR with a turbo, but I typically keep up just fine with my modified xp1000. It will hurt trading it in as I have an extra 15-17k into it. Of course I could remove the JL stereo etc I guess. Another reason I was looking at tusk axles.

Super ATV's mount looks like the CVs would bounce against the cage?
 

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Yea I'm getting the I wants for a a new RzR with a turbo, but I typically keep up just fine with my modified xp1000. It will hurt trading it in as I have an extra 15-17k into it. Of course I could remove the JL stereo etc I guess. Another reason I was looking at tusk axles.

Super ATV's mount looks like the CVs would bounce against the cage?
Yes I thought of that to them bouncing on the cage but a new axle may be stiff enough so it dont but if your using the used ones than maybe rocky mt. Is better for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Yes I thought of that to them bouncing on the cage but a new axle may be stiff enough so it dont but if your using the used ones than maybe rocky mt. Is better for you.
I have no idea if the rmatv ones are any better of course. I like that they posted pictures on super atv of it installed.
 

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If your still looking for axles check out the Demon HD axles and our Rugged Performance axles. Both axles come with a 1 yr warranty. If you are running larger tires, high clearance a-arms or something we would recommend the Demon HD. If your machine is stock then our Rugged Performance axles will do the job!! Hit us up if you have any questions.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
If your still looking for axles check out the Demon HD axles and our Rugged Performance axles. Both axles come with a 1 yr warranty. If you are running larger tires, high clearance a-arms or something we would recommend the Demon HD. If your machine is stock then our Rugged Performance axles will do the job!! Hit us up if you have any questions.
Thanks, I already ordered the tusk axles. I run 30" tires but they are buffed Skats and weight very very little.

What kind of silicon is suggested for the diff leak? Just fiill it in and then shove the greased axle into place?
 
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