[Jafo2]

I've read all the posts regarding this common issue with the 800's. Amazing it was never recalled.
I bought a used 2012 800 4 Bobby Gordon model that I have so far spent much more time working on it than actually driving it. It seems that this issue happens at relatively low mileage. Mine has over 7000 miles on it. Any chance it has gone this long without it coming loose or are the odds that the previous owner had to deal with it already? Has anybody that had this occur have it happen at a high mileage or is it a low mileage issue?

 

[Pullerguy]

Take a look at the rear diff, there should be a data tag on the housing left and above the fill/check plug. That will show the build date, if is is a 2012 date is is original, a later build date it has been changed. The only way to check is to pill the diff and check the nut. 20% stay tight, 80% are prone to coming loose and fail.
Mileage or driving style doesn't appear to be a determining factor. We have seen them loose, <15ft,lbs at under 400 miles, the other end of the chart >8000 miles and still tight.
Kind of like rolling the dice, some rolls are winners some rolls crap out.
Les

 

[Jafo2]

Take a look at the rear diff, there should be a data tag on the housing left and above the fill/check plug. That will show the build date, if is is a 2012 date is is original, a later build date it has been changed. The only way to check is to pill the diff and check the nut. 20% stay tight, 80% are prone to coming loose and fail.
Mileage or driving style doesn't appear to be a determining factor. We have seen them loose, <15ft,lbs at under 400 miles, the other end of the chart >8000 miles and still tight.
Kind of like rolling the dice, some rolls are winners some rolls crap out.
Les

Thanks for the reply.
I'll check that today. The tag wouldn't change if it was just taken apart and tightened would it? I have just recently developed a leak which I believe is from the rear differential but have been unable to locate it exactly. When that nut is loose, would it create a leak?

 

[scubadnv]

Your model year definitely has the pinion nut issue. Whether it has been fixed or not is a crap shoot. Some people pull theirs apart and find the original nut and find it to be tight. How long it will hold on is anybody guess. My recommendation is pull the diff out and inspect the nut. If the nut is a nyloc nut then replace it per the videos out there. If it is all steel then it has been replaced with the nut that does not fail. I personally, if the steel nut is there, would stake the nut also if it has not been staked already. At the least you will need a new seal due to the need to remove the seal to inspect the nut.

 

[Jafo2]

The seal you mention, I'm assuming it seals the differential fluid. If fluid were getting past that seal. where would it exit the casing? It didn't seem to be coming from where the driveline is attached. No lift and bad eyesight.....
Thanks

 

[scubadnv]

If that seal would leak it would go into the connector tube between the diff and the gearcase assy. There are o-rings that seal that tube but I don't know if those seals are to keep oil in or water out. Here is a link to the illustration that shows that connection.

2012 Polaris RZR 4 800 EFI (R12XE76AD/7EAB/EAO) Drive Train, Gearcase, Carrier Mounting | Babbitts Polaris Partshouse

Shop online for OEM Drive Train, Gearcase, Carrier Mounting parts that fit your 2012 Polaris RZR 4 800 EFI (R12XE76AD/7EAB/EAO), search all our OEM Parts or call at (231)737-4542

www.polarispartshouse.com

 

[scubadnv]

There should be no oil in the tube so my guess is the o-rings are there to keep stuff out and yes, if the nut comes loose it could possibly allow the pinion to wobble and cause a leak at the seal.

 

[Jafo2]

There should be no oil in the tube so my guess is the o-rings are there to keep stuff out and yes, if the nut comes loose it could possibly allow the pinion to wobble and cause a leak at the seal.

Hey thanks,
If you can't tell these are new to me. Bikes I know. Learning these one problem at a time. I have a front end wobble and I've pretty much replaced the front end trying to fix it and now the backside is giving me problems. Thanks for the link. Next stop youtube for a video on getting the rear end out.

 

[scubadnv]

There are a couple of bolts that are difficult to reach so patients is a must. Gear wrenches are very helpful along with some good quality universal sockets and extensions. Where are you located. There are loaner tools out there and I also have a set.

 

[Jafo2]

There are a couple of bolts that are difficult to reach so patients is a must. Gear wrenches are very helpful along with some good quality universal sockets and extensions. Where are you located. There are loaner tools out there and I also have a set.

I did find a pretty good youtube video of the procedure on a 2 seater so should be similar. I believe it was one of the gentlemen that came up with the special tools but now I can't find it. I saw and heard about the bolts you mentioned.
They do look patience testing. I'm in AZ, Paulden to be precise.
Thanks again, I appreciate the help.

 

[Flying59]

The Razor 800 & 800S Pinion Nut Repair Video by Les Hansen (Pullerguy)

Hopefully, this video will help those many Razor 800 and 800S owners with doing the pinion nut repair on their rides. We have Pullerguy (Les) and Pirate (Stuart) to thank for their engineering expertise in developing a tool that will make this repair much easier.

I am so fortunate that out of the goodness in his heart, Les came to my home in Utah from his home in Nevada (a 6 hr drive one way) to do the repair on my 2012 800S rzr that had only 590 miles on it. My small contribution in doing the video pales in comparison what these two fine men have done for their fellow members. I have a new YouTube channel (yeah ... I'm a rookie with the GoPro) and my youtube name is Bigjeep man.

I apologize ahead of time for the compressor noise so I added some warnings to turn down the volume. Here it is ... hope it is some benefit ...

I defer all questions on the mechanical content of the video to Pullerguy and Pirate ... because I am lacking all but the very basic mechanical abilities like screwing in a light bulb.

This will get you to the video. If you look through the thread you should find the part numbers you need also.

 

[Jafo2]

This will get you to the video. If you look through the thread you should find the part numbers you need also.

Thanks, that's the one I watched. My first question was, how is that thing so clean???

 

[scubadnv]

I am just south of Casa Grande and have the tools if you need them. I work in Chandler so we can meet up if needed or I can mail the tool to you.

 

[Jafo2]

I am just south of Casa Grande and have the tools if you need them. I work in Chandler so we can meet up if needed or I can mail the tool to you.

That would be greatly appreciated. I'll gladly pay the shipping. I need to figure out what is leaking so I can have all parts needed when I do it. I'll give you a shout when I'm ready.
Maybe you could give me an idea of where to look for this leak. It's coming from the rear end and leaks while just sitting. It's not from the drain or filler and it doesn't seem to be coming from where the tube connects. What possible leak areas are there? There's not any kind of vent hose or anything is there?

 

[Clothier]

It can come from the axle seals, could be leaking around case where the diff cover bolts on, and yes there is a vent tube, but its on top of the diff.

 

[scubadnv]

Smell the leaked oil and sniff a bottle of gear oil. The smell is very distinct. If they smell the same then it is the diff but if they don't it is likely the trans or transfer case or possibly even engine oil.

 

[Jafo2]

Thanks, that gives me some starting points. We replaced the rear cv axles and everything seemed okay. I just had the bed off to replace the gear position sensor. Just got it back on and the leak starts.

Take a look at the rear diff, there should be a data tag on the housing left and above the fill/check plug. That will show the build date, if is is a 2012 date is is original, a later build date it has been changed. The only way to check is to pill the diff and check the nut. 20% stay tight, 80% are prone to coming loose and fail.
Mileage or driving style doesn't appear to be a determining factor. We have seen them loose, <15ft,lbs at under 400 miles, the other end of the chart >8000 miles and still tight.
Kind of like rolling the dice, some rolls are winners some rolls crap out.
Les

There was no tag but it may be a moot point. I found a break in the frame and I'm pretty sure it's twisted. The end of the bolt that hold the lower arm is making marks against the transmission casing.

 

[Jafo2]

Smell the leaked oil and sniff a bottle of gear oil. The smell is very distinct. If they smell the same then it is the diff but if they don't it is likely the trans or transfer case or possibly even engine oil.

Well, the good news is I found the leak. All three of the bolts holding the tube to the carrier mounting weren't even finger tight. I think there is a 4th bolt up higher but it felt tight and after the following discoveries didn't seem so important.
The bad news is I have no idea how much damage that may have caused to the shaft, bolts, threads, etc.
The worse news is I thought a bolt looked too close to the transmissions casing. Turns out my frame is broken and the passenger side wheel assembly is out of line. I'm thinking I may have solved the wobble I've been chasing.
Is this somethin that can be fixed or is it up for parts?

 

[Clothier]

Its fixable, just needs to be welded. Actually somewhat common on the 800's. I just welded up a crack on mine the other day. Next time I have it torn apart I'll weld some gussets in there.

 

[Pullerguy]

Jafo2:
Shoot us a PM with an email address we will send you written guidelines to pull the rear diff, they will save you time and labor over the way we did it in the video.

Pullerguy aka Les