I'm no expert as I'm not able to do it myself but this might help. I'm unsure what member this originally came from but it surely wasn't me ...

Pinion nut repair steps
1 Drain fluid
2 Pull the axles
3 Remove mid exhaust pipe and silencer
4 Remove the engine mount bracket from the frame and diff by removing 3 bolt two on frame one through the rubber mount.
5 Pull the bolts that secure the diff to the transmission and the bolts in the bracket that secure the rear of the gear case to the transmission. Remove the bracket
6 Pull the 4 bolts out of the rubber mount and remove it.
7 Pull the gear case to the rear and disengage it from the transmission
8 Remove the vent line and lift the gear case up and on its side to remove it from the rzr

I should note this is just a list for the removal of the rear gear case. The actual repair is a different animal I understand. Hopefully, the members who have this experience will join in on your thread.

 

About 7-8 hrs labor time plus parts....If the mechanic has done it before should be less labor time....and the dealership will need the special tool to lock the differential to torque the pinion nut to 280-300 ft lbs

 

If you get a quote from a dealer, please post it up.

 

mtjk:
I sent you a PM.
Les

 

Tubro170:
here is a parts list for the parts.
Seal, Oil, Pinion #3610102
O-Ring, Trans to Diff #3234516 (Drive Train, Gear Case, Carrier Mounting)
Pinion Nut # 7547243 (This nut is used on the Rangers).

I sent you a PM
Pullerguy aka Les

Hi pullerguy can you PM me? I’m interested in your pinion nut tool. I’m new to this forum and it does not let me pm yet.

 

Bigjeepman:
Are you getting any rain up your way, we got a little bit the last two nights? The dunes across the highway are damp and waiting for you to come and stir them up.
Les

 

It's been beautiful here weather-wise for over a week but then today, a cold, rainy front came in. It's kind of cold, wet, and windy.

 

I had to do mine last year. I did all the work myself. I bought a differential from Hawk engineering think it cost right at 1600 for all the parts. They reshim them and apply lock tight and tourqe the new pinion nut correctly

 

I removed my rear diff tonite. Took 3 1/2 hours. No one told me that before starting, you have to amputate your thumb and 2 fingers on each hand, to get into the little crevices where the bolt heads are hidden. I think I'll hire a little Japanese guy to sneak those bolts back in. It won't be fun! Does anyone know - Can I get the all-steel pinion nut from my dealer? What do you think would be the best gear oil to run? Now would be the time to put in the best. Thanks.

 

Tubro170:
here is a parts list for the parts.
Seal, Oil, Pinion #3610102
O-Ring, Trans to Diff #3234516 (Drive Train, Gear Case, Carrier Mounting)
Pinion Nut # 7547243 (This nut is used on the Rangers).

I sent you a PM
Pullerguy aka Les

 

I need to write this down! Thanks for doing the leg work Les! I just posted in this thread http://www.rzrforums.net/rzr-800-specific-discussion/251921-any-issues-2014-rzr-eps-800-4-a.html that they should contact you about the tools to do the job easiest.

 

Thanks a million, Les. I have a service manual, but it doesn't have any parts numbers in it. I'm heading down to the dealer this morning. They never heard of an 800XC, so they probably never heard of rear diff problems either.

 

Don't forget loc tite I prefer Permatex #27200 most auto stores carry it and get some blue loc tite for other fasteners
Also a hunk of 1/2" I D hose helps to start those hard to get to bolts just wiggle the bolt head into hose to turn bolts into threads to start them....that way you don't need extra super long fingers hehehe

 

Pappy:
My hat is off to you, the hose trick, I have used that for spark plugs but didn't think of it for those bolts. I used a set of the little springy mechanical fingers to put them in place.
Les

 

Les us ol timers still have a few tricks we use while workin under the shade tree hehehe
The hose trick works a little better it's more controlled then the mechanical fingers

 

Brian:
Thank you, got in touch with them.
Les

 

Just got back from the dealer. He never heard of this problem with diff's. They've sold thousands of RZR's since they came out, and being in North Bend, Oregon, you'd think the dunes would have taken a toll on loose pinion nuts. Because of this, they don't stock nuts, seals or O-rings for the 800 diff's. Strange, BUT I guess it's the luck of the draw. Maybe more people work on their own RZR's around here. Anyway, the mechanic has a NEVER USED extra=deep 1 3/4" socket, and removed my nut. I knocked out the seals - including the side seals, since I donated a pound of skin to the cause, getting the damned bolts out of the bracket. Ordered nut, o-ring, 3 seals total $57.75. Maybe overpaid, but he didn't charge me to remove the nut, and won't charge me to replace the nut, so all OK. I'll just use my own 80w90 oil. Another BIG thanks, guys, for your help!

 

Pappy:
Yup I'm sure it would, I held the bolt in with the fingers then reached down in with the wrench and loosen up the fingers give a little turn with the wrench, grab the bolt move the wrench ....well you know how that goes. A couple of the lower bolts I was able to get with a 1/4" drive through holes in the frame.
Yup us ol timers as you said still have a few tricks.
Les

 

Pappy and Les, those aren't tricks those are hard learned skills!!! You had to use what you had. Now they make every kinda specialty tool known to man. Unfortunately I never seem to have the specialty tool when I need them, so I do as you and use what I have in ways it was never meant to be used! Lol!

 

Brian:
Yup, you said it. You are a member of the "Been there Dun That, Got the Hat Club." I think Pappy may be in the running for President of the group.
Les

 

Our fearless leader!!! Haha!

 

Brain and Les durn my senior moments I just grab anything that looks like it will work
And since I've been building custom motorcycles for 50 plus years I've got more special or modify tools then any man should have... most of them are weird lookin and I wish I could remember why I made it

 

Got a few of those myself Pappy.

 

TURBO170:
Be sure and use Loctit#272 or Permatex 27200, it is high temp, high strength and most auto parts stores carry it. If you are using the Nyloc nut I would recommend pulling the plastic out of it, some plastic's don't play friendly with Loctit. Good Luck and welcome to the Busted Knuckle Crew.
Les

 

Pappy & Brian:
Now here is something to ponder on over your morning coffee or tea. We take all our "Special Tools" and put them in one big tool box or better yet on a peg board then have a pile of labels on the bench. Then see who can match the tools and labels, maybe I should have said a "big peg board"
Les

 

But how would we choose the winner? Cause you know each of us could find another use for every tool each of us has made or modified! Haha! Then the creator of said tool, would be like, huh, never thought ebout using it for that before! Good times, big fun guys!!!

 

Brian:
The winner would be determined by the scars on the knuckles.

 

I can't enter this contest because when l walk upright my knuckles are always draggin on the ground and get really scared up every day
LMFAO

 

Pappy:
Sounds like you win by default, I bow to you "Our Fearless Leader"

 

All bow to king Pappy! Haha!