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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2016 rzr 1000 I recently bought, when I go to get on it (on asphalt) I have the misfire and “grounding” codes popping up about every 10-15 miles. Then to top that I was driving on the highway and eased into the gas and heard a “spun bearing” sound, pulled the clutch cover off and the bolt closest to the clutch cover came loose rubbing against the cover. I put some blue lock tight on and tightened back in. Now when I go to drive it I will get to about 35-45mph and sounds like the RPMS are through the roof. Anything I can look at or try before taking it to a shop?
 

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Your fast and most effective answer is to have the dealer look at it. Get an estimate for repairs. Then you can decide if you have the ability to fix it yourself or let the dealer do it. There are too many variables to guess at it here. We can't see all the parts of the clutch or test drive it.

If money is super tight, join your local UTV club and find a member close to you willing to look it over or help you fix it. These rigs are expensive to own, operate and repair. Buy good tools, a manual for your rig and get some help making repairs so you can learn all you can about them. I wish you luck!
 

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What he said^^^^^


I have a ‘14, bought new in ‘13. I literally just pulled the upper a-arms to replace the bushings. I’ve done a lot of repairs and upgrades over the years, no matter what, it will always be one problem after another. It’s just the nature of the sport.

Enjoy it!!! Work hard, play hard, then work hard some more so you can fix all the shit you broke playing hard. Rinse, repeat.


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It sounds like there are issues with the clutches and/or belt. How many miles on it? Do you still have the stuck pucks in the secondary? What’s the belt look like? Hard to say, but I’d be looking at the clutches first. Do some searches, check out some hunterworks videos on YouTube. Not to sound like a jerk, but this is why I always recommend buying new with these things. Unless you really know what to look for it’s hard to tell what kind of life a machine has had. There’s not too many people that buy an XP1K and just putt around the campground if you know what I mean.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It sounds like there are issues with the clutches and/or belt. How many miles on it? Do you still have the stuck pucks in the secondary? What’s the belt look like? Hard to say, but I’d be looking at the clutches first. Do some searches, check out some hunterworks videos on YouTube. Not to sound like a jerk, but this is why I always recommend buying new with these things. Unless you really know what to look for it’s hard to tell what kind of life a machine has had. There’s not too many people that buy an XP1K and just putt around the campground if you know what I mean.
I recently just bought this rig with about 800 miles. I ended up buying it to run through the creek and dunes, I will do some more research and look into the clutches, belt seemed fine but I didn’t look to hard. I will pull the cover back off and look everything over. Would you happen to have a torque spec sheet or know where to look for one other than a manual?
 

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If your Rpms are high like your saying it sounds like the spider nut has worked loose in the primary. Also as stated above check to see if you still have the square pucks in the secondary if so change them out with hunterworks round rollers if the secondary isn't shot. As for torc specs I'm sure I will catch heck for it but I never torc anything with a torc wrench depending on what it is I sometimes just stall out the impact gun on it, use a breaker bar and just feel, or use a wrench and smack with a mallet. I have done that forever with my vehicles and rzr. Yes a torc wrench is the correct way if that makes you feel better there is nothing wrong with that either. I just never brought my self to buying a torc wrench yet lol
 

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As for torc specs I'm sure I will catch heck for it but I never torc anything with a torc wrench depending on what it is I sometimes just stall out the impact gun on it, use a breaker bar and just feel, or use a wrench and smack with a mallet. I have done that forever with my vehicles and rzr. Yes a torc wrench is the correct way if that makes you feel better there is nothing wrong with that either. I just never brought my self to buying a torc wrench yet lol
Yep, I think it’s about HECKIN’ time to buy a HECKIN’ torque wrench, buddy.


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Discussion Starter #10
Okay so I did some more tinkering and thinking on the Rzr and it seems to be the high RPM's flare up much more on the highway than the dirt roads. When I bought the Rzr it has the High Lifter Outlaw 2 tires on them, would the bigger tires lead to higher RPM's? I am trying to trade the whole wheel and tire setup for something much less aggressive since I would not have any need for them.
 

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Okay so I did some more tinkering and thinking on the Rzr and it seems to be the high RPM's flare up much more on the highway than the dirt roads. When I bought the Rzr it has the High Lifter Outlaw 2 tires on them, would the bigger tires lead to higher RPM's? I am trying to trade the whole wheel and tire setup for something much less aggressive since I would not have any need for them.
Yes that will take alot of power from you. I put 30s on mine it sounds like what your saying. Only notice on pavement
 

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Why? I never had a issue without one? Lol
You don’t think you’ve had an issue. Maybe you have and never realized it. Seems kinda weird to me, spend 30-50k on a toy, and wrench on it with the wrong tools. A torque wrench is less than $100?


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You don’t think you’ve had an issue. Maybe you have and never realized it. Seems kinda weird to me, spend 30-50k on a toy, and wrench on it with the wrong tools. A torque wrench is less than $100?


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I'm not using the wrong tools I just dont have them all. Also it's one of those thing where I have wanted to get one but just never did yet. I'm not saying anybody is wrong for using them and I'm sure I'm not the only person that doesn't use them.
 

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If you’re using a breaker bar or socket wrench to torque down fasteners that is the wrong tool! Of course you’re not the only one using the wrong tools. That doesn’t make it right!

Just get one!


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I’ve been wrenching on all sorts of machinery and vehicles for probably 25 years. I torque to spec sensitive fasteners such as engine and gearbox fasteners, as well as anything preloading a bearing. I don’t torque suspension, body, chassis, or even brake parts to spec. Never had an issue. I use anti-seize on most things, but will occasionally use blue loctite if I foresee an issue.
 

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Ok yes I will make sure use proper torque specs on head gasket bolts and that kinda stuff yea I will barrow a torque wrench for that, but as said above on suspension and brakes and etc. Is where I will use the methods I said. So I geuss I half lied 😜. Anyhow IMO you dont need a torque wrench in everything.
 
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