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Discussion Starter #1
I haven’t posted in quite awhile but that didn’t mean I wasn’t busy. Here is the latest crazy RZR build that has been over a year in the making but put on fast forward.

2014 RZR XP100 power plant
2015 skeleton of a frame and then a whole lot of fabrication
Lots and lots of aftermarket parts

A little humor to start with my fake Amazon plate


Starting with the gen2 SuperATV GDP Portals because I wanted to try something different than a go fast build with a power plant that is basically obsolete when compared to all the turbo cars.





These things are beef!

The ground clearance is amazing too! Here are a couple shots at full bump at the front and rear of the car.



Here are a couple at ride height. Almost the same belly clearance as my friends Jeep on 40’s.



All these measurements were taken on 34” bias Super Swampers




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Discussion Starter #2
I worked out a chassis on Solidworks and made about 6 versions before I arrived at something I liked and started bending up the tube to make a chassis out of the 2015 frame skeleton I got. Here are a couple pics of the front and rear tires at full bump on the basic chassis.



I took the frame cutting farther than the last chassis I did by removing the center of the stock shock mount tube both front and rear. This allowed me to run a single tube straight through at the front and rear shock mounts without adding a bunch weight from double wall tubing.

A few more as the chassis starts to take shape.



I wanted to keep everything as low as possible with a safe but short cage for better crawling and to make sure it would fit in my trailer. All that awesome belly clearance that is so great on obstacles could make the car too tall to fit under the happyjack bed in my toyhauler. The goal was to keep the car below 72” at ride height while ensuring at least 4” from my helmet to the nearest tube.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180828/cb6e3217fef8a0608b3e9361e247

To do that I had to make a custom fuel tank again. This time I decided to do two separate tanks because the single large tank was a serious pain to make and get in and out of the car. This was also my first big TIG project where I did all the welding. This did sacrifice some volume but the two tanks still hold a total of 12 gal which is enough to give significantly better range than the stock 9.5 gal.

I started with some wood mockups to make sure there was enough clearance around everything and I wanted to use the as a jig to hold the aluminum together while I tacked them up.
[IMG]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180828/e755613ab556be9f61e5a342a9e4b046.jpg

The fuel plate flange on the last tank was different to weld because of the joint design so I did that differently this time as well. My friend was kind enough to turn and mill out a billet neck with a step joint on the underside that allowed a fillet weld where the tank top couldn’t pull away from the flange as it was welded. Once the underside was welded I flipped it over and welded the topside. It didn’t need it as the bottom made a seal but I need practice and had fun duty cycling my TIG getting all the heat into that slab of billet. I used a lot of propane too to get it preheated.



It turned out pretty good and passed air pressure testing when the tanks were fully burned in. I only had one pinhole leak per tank that I had grind out and reweld. My welds still leave much to be desired but that will take a lot more practice, which is hard when I have a full time desk job.





The drivers tank finished at 5 gallons and the passenger tank ended at 7 gallons. I put -10 AN fittings on the back for the cross over at the bottom of the sumps and 1/4” rollover vent valves at the top of each tank. The vent valves have nice thermoplastic melt sleeves that seal the ball bearing and vent in the event of a fire/roll. I found this out by accident with one that I screwed in while the bung was pretty hot and ruined it.

Here is a shot of the -10 cross over hose and sumps from below. Could have gone smaller and it would have worked fine.



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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Super cool, well done!


Thanks!

On with the build. I sure wish I could get as much done each day as I am posting up! With some fuel and a nice low cage, I started on the keynote feature of this build that drove the name. The hood and grill. I love 20s-40s vehicles and proposed a 30’s Ford truck in the RZR reincarnation build a couple years ago but nixed it because of the cost for a glass replica body. In this build I came to a solution that would have the flavor of one of these vintage trucks without the $5k plus for a fiberglass body that would get destroyed the first time I put this thing on it’s lid. So roll in some rock bouncer with an exposed cage for durability, stir up a $250 garage sale 37 Ford fiberglass hood, hammer in some rat rod and bend up a crazy custom grill and you have the Old Timer. In a custom license plate format OLD TMR and for Instagram #oldtmr.





In case you are wondering, I don’t own a roll bender but figured out how to emulate the effect with properly spaced small bends. I scrapped the first one but got the next two right. I liked it, so then I did the same thing to make the bumper. I did have to up to 0.120 wall to keep the tubing smooth. 0.100 left indications from each bend. The individual grill pieces were done with a quick and dirty jig so I could hand bend a bunch and weld them on.



I struggled for awhile on the top of the cage but finally came up with a solution that triangulated the cage, stayed far enough away from my head and would keep boulders out when one happens to go wrong side up.

Tries one and two, good triangulation but too close to my head. The opposite direction was also done and was better for taking a hit on the A pillar but I didn’t snap a pic of it.



Try three, the winner. Lots of head room to account for harness slop and body movement in a roll, a much smaller “hole” in the roof for stuff to try and joint me in the cab and pretty good triangulation for hits from any direction.







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Discussion Starter #5
Let’s help #oldtmr let out the spent gases with a surplus Gibson chambered 6” round muffler from my friend’s Jeep and a 2.5” mandrel U bend exhaust fitting. RZR specific mufflers are stupid expensive when pretty much any automotive muffler will get the job done. I will also comment that Alba Racing had some interesting thoughts about glass packed and chambered muffler use on these cars. They state that the continuous high rpm with CVTs blows out glass packs rapidly and only recommend chambered designs. I experienced that first hand with my stock muffler that blew most of the packing into the spark arrestor and clogged it up with less than 1000 miles on it.



I have learned that the exhaust on the RZR is stupid hot and lots of thought has to go into the mounts so they don’t melt! Which reminds about another recall I just received for this thing that is totally irrelevant, lol, and all the plastic on the stock machine near the exhaust is a really bad idea. I made these as long as possible and then drilled them out to reduce the amount of cross section to transfer heat to the silicone bushings. Combine that with air flow around and through the holes and the heat transfer has been substantially reduced. I ran it hard for hours and they didn’t get soft or melt. In the past, with an inferior design I melted them in less than 30 minutes. See the reincarnation thread if you are curious. I also don’t like the silly spring ball setup and prefer to weld on v bands for a solid leak free connection. You will have to ignore my elementary TIG skills. The exhaust was the perfect thing to practice on and it doesn’t matter too much what it looks like, unlike the cage.



One the subject of hot, something has to keep the heat away from the intake so I bent up a simple heat shield and mounted it with some rivet nuts. The stock heat shield fit, so I slapped it on for a little extra insulation. It all goes with my rat rod recycling theme.





The stock spark arrestor slips right into the outlet and keeps this exhaust legal for the USFS.



It has been too long for me to remember how loud the stock exhaust was but this one doesn’t seem to bad, although I would actually prefer a very quiet machine. Better for stealth out in the forest. Loud just gets obnoxious after several hours.





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Discussion Starter #7
Awesome build, bark beetle! Can't wait to see the finished product!

Thank you. This build has Super ATV parts all over it. So let’s focus on the portals some more and graduate this beast to 4 tires!

It is always fun to check all the clearance at full bump to make sure nothing gets destroyed when this baby gets worked. Builds always look cool bottomed out and I can’t get over all the clearance on the bumps! Some custom suspension mounts and this car could have significantly more wheel travel without plowing into the ground. Anyone have a Can-Am, LOL.




The front shock clearance to the frame is solid with tons of room.


The rear shocks and trailing arms also don’t have any issues.



Radius rod clearance on the upper rod at the portal is tight, aftermarket rods will have to be carefully evaluated...


Frame side is good to go


And one more shot from the front with some old school 7” headlight buckets modified to run sideways. The rat rod look is coming together.







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Discussion Starter #9
A bunch of details and more recycling for #oldtmr.

I thought about the hood mounting for a long time and considered Jeep style latches, hood pins, ratchet straps, and finally settled on a pair of rubber bungee cords as a super simple rat rod method to go with in the spirit of the leather straps used in the early days of the automobile.



At the back, I have always been fond of stake beds and wood sides so I took a 2x10 and hacked on it, beat it up, and then oiled it to give a vintage style for the bed with the added bonus that these could actually be used as sand ladders if needed.



The finished look is starting to come together with some seats and the nearly finished chassis.



I recycled the stock steering system but always hated the slop in the tilt mechanism so I hard mounted it and went to a quick release wheel.





The fuel pump sits nicely between the taper in the seats. There isn’t a lot of room in the cockpit, even with a wider cab than the stock RZR, so a lot of thought goes toward component placement.



I started with the shifter in the stock location but I didn’t really like it there so I ended up moving it to the dash. Here is the original mount and how tight it fit between the seats. This also shows the seat mounts and how I used the seats to hold down the fuel tanks. No reason to add more steel when the seat frame provides two perfect crossbars for each tank.



Here is the final shifter location with a piece of chain welded together for some style, the stock shifter was was too boring. I recycled the grab bar from the RZR but I am still undecided on something with a little more style. I like the steering close to me but the deep dish on the steering wheel was too close so I cut the wheel up and turned it into a flat mount which goes with the character of the build.





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Discussion Starter #10
I struggled for awhile with doors, swing direction and tubing in the area or no doors on Old Timer. Here are a few shots with nothing, duct tape mock, tube, and what I finally settled on for the first set of doors I have ever made. I have mostly done trucks in the past that already have them.

Nothing


Tube diagonal only (had flat for door latch)


Duct tape, which I liked enough to go for it.


Tacked together doors and diagonals.


Fully skinned and better looking than duct tape. Fully removable too.


Not much to talk about with the skins because they are just flat scraps with 1/4 turn fasteners. I am still a rookie with tin work but here are a few new things, for me, with this body.

A hole saw plus a hammer made this rolled edge for the fuel cap access that stiffened it up and eliminated any sharps around the cap.


I used my newly acquired TIG skills to make the recessed panels that break up the flat side panels and allow air flow over the voltage regulator and shock reservoirs.


Some punch flare work, a very basic dash, and experimental work with the freebie harbor freight bead roller (super crappy and now saving for one worth owning)


Switching to steel for some rock slider filler panels with some grip.



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Discussion Starter #12
I wish I had that kind of talent

Nice work

I actually see a little of polaris in it.:big-grin


Thank you, it has been a long slow process and I have a long way to go. Trying a few new things on each build is expanding the skill base.

Here is what it looked like before it got blown apart for paint, wiring and final assembly.







With my least favorite part out of the way, reassembly underway



GDP Portals plus 34” tires equals destroyed steering without some reinforcement and Sandcraft called me up with a special price for their new steering stabilizer so I went for it. The only other viable option, in my opinion, is the Shock Therapy rack which is absolute beef but also 2x the price. The difference is bump steer and the portals already trash the scrub radius so why not.

It would be killer if a company designed a car around portals, maximized the wheel travel increase they offer and eliminate the slightly messed up steering geometry.





The stupid aluminum bodied Walker shocks seized during the build, the stock springs are total garbage, and they were already showing significant wear from the coil sliders with a whopping 1000 miles on them. Kartek had these nice Fox IBP, dual rate compression shocks with quality springs for a good price and they are a vast improvement, starting with the size. 3” rears and 2.5” fronts with huge reservoirs.






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Discussion Starter #13
Assembly continued.

The CVT intake is made with a 3” to 4” silicone reducer, two hose clamps, a piece of hogged out 4” aluminum tubing with a bead roll and an Outwears prefilter, just like stock but less restrictive.



Some nylon spacers, machine screws and lock nuts mount the computer as high as possible between the seats.



Fuel pump plumbing with Russell hose/fittings and venting the fuel tanks as far away from the engine as possible. The plastic connection to the fuel pump is pretty wimpy so I tied the fuel line down to keep it as secure as possible.



While I was at the Mint 400 this year I picked up a sponsorship from Lazerstar lights. This is a first for me. They sent over this universal wire controller with a mini push button controller along with all the other lighting for the car. This is the first time I have used one of these style relay controllers. The instructions were clear and each output was well labeled so hookup was simple with no drama. The kit came with plenty of cable length and the controller is very compact, bonus! Six full size switches would have been a challenge to fit in the space I have. The controller is backlit and comes with a good selection of decals to identify each switch.

Here is the cockpit with the controller, factory speedo, switches, and the winch controls.



Cockpit all powered up with the backlit controller



The controller is wired to a matching six output relay module that is mounted remotely in the location of your choice within the length of the control leads which are really long. In my case it is on the firewall next to the winch controller. Each circuit is fused making it safe to tie the power side straight to the battery, which I did because of the potential power draw. The RZR stator isn’t known for its exceptional power output. I wired the relay module to the ignition accessory power so everything is off if the ignition is off. For this car, dealing with the long leads was actually a bit of a pain because everything is so close together. On a full size vehicle or in a different mounting arrangement it wouldn’t be an issue.

Here is a picture of the relay module next to the winch controller on the firewall.


To complete the wiring I recycled the stock accessory power block and used most of it for all the ground leads from the lights. I also went with a compact Odyssey battery that won’t spill any acid like the stock one and it is a deep cycle version so it can handle the winch and electrical load.



I’ll get to all the lights in the next update.




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Discussion Starter #14
Starting with the light bar, a curved rectangular bar would be the easiest but I didn’t think it would look right with the rest of the build so I decided to use fourteen 10W LXLED lights with 10 spots and 4 floods. The upside is the ability to aim each one for the exact pattern I want or replace individual lights if some get creamed in a roll.

I really like how the round lights look on the car.




Wiring all of them up was great fun versus a single pair for a light bar but it turned out pretty clean with the supplied Deutsch connectors and pigtails.


Out back they sent these really bright billet shorty rigid mount LED lights. Lazerstar custom mated a polished ring with a black body to match the headlight buckets for Old Timer. Sweet!



These are hurt your eyes bright when the brakes are on, this is just the running brightness


For a night crawl, I mounted an amber iStar LED Pod on each corner with some rivet nuts, allen screws and a rubber tubing adapter they sell for them. The basic kit includes a flat rubber mount.
Fronts


Rears


Rock lights on


Finally, I mounted a pair of the white iStar Pod lights up top for reverse and work around the bed and back of the car.





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Wow bark beetle,this ride is amazing!!! You are going to have to post a video of this thing in action! Excelent job,waiting for more! #OLDTMR!

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Discussion Starter #16
More miscellaneous little things, starting with the recessed mount at the base of the passenger seat for the tool bag.



The muffler heat shield with the recycled stock one bolted down under it along with the spare tire mount/truck bed frame



I bent up a mini truck bed using my freebie harbor freight bead roller and some hand bending against my welding table. I will be looking for a proper bead roller soon because I love what can be done with one. 5052 is really nice to work with and I experimented with more bends than I have ever done in a single part. It stiffened up nice and has folded edges where the spare tire strap locations are.



34” spare fits with no problem, or one can run without the spare and have room to strap down quite a bit of cargo. I left room around the airbox for a future UMP upgrade and to let the heat out from the engine. No shortage of flow around the rear of this car





The stock upper ball joints have the flange on the wrong side of the a-arm which puts all of the suspension load on the snap ring. Frap makes them correct and puts the flange on the bottom so they stay put. My stock ones were about to blow out and had bent snap rings. Polaris just wanted one part number for all four joints instead of taking the extra step to do it right.



SuperATV recommendations 4/3 wheels but with careful selection I believed 5/2 or even 5/1 wheels would clear everything while keeping the car 2-4” narrower, reducing the steering load and keep the portals mostly inside the wheel so they don’t drag in the mud. These 5/2 wheels cleared but required careful attention to the brake line routing. I added a line clamp on the portal adapter to ensure the brake line would not get into the wheel where it would be quickly destroyed. This is the best picture I could get, which is still a little hard to judge the clearance, it is about 3/4”.



With the heavy weight of the portal/34” tire combo, I decided it would be best to run limit straps on the car to eliminate direct shock loading while airborne. These Sandcraft straps did the trick and I also swapped all the suspension bolts for ones that ride fully on the shank of the bolt (I was lazy and just ordered the kit from Sandcraft), again because of the higher load on from the portals. I have not upgraded the radius rods and that will be a future project to punch everything out to 12mm and upgrade to some high strength radius rods. One caution with the limit strap kits, most of them will contact the tire at full lock on the front lower shock mount with deep backspaced wheels (like stock ones). The huge offset from the portals eliminates that interference.



I mentioned the Sandcraft steering brace early but the picture didn’t show it very well and I did not address the process for installation. Here are better shots showing how crowded the front end gets with the steering brace, winch mount, winch, plumbing, wiring, and cooling! There is a very specific sequence necessary to get it all together and naturally it took me four tries before got it right.

The first time I mounted the steering adapter to the rack without the winch plate simultaneously and couldn’t get the winch plate into the car.

The second time I got them both in together only to realize I couldn’t install the winch mounting bolts for the winch.
The third time I used the forward winch hole pattern for the winch mounting bolts and the winch contacted the radiator fan.

I got it right on the forth time of uninstalling everything to install it. So to summarize, first mount the winch to rear bolt pattern on winch plate (for my Warn winch), winch plus winch plate plus steering stabilizer (stripped) into the car as one hard to handle “assembly”, connect the rack to the steering stabilizer, and finish with the tie rods. None of this was in the instructions but should be.

Winch bolt clearance to the stabilizer is very tight. I also had to use a 90 degree grease fitting to get the stabilizer lubed up. My straight greaser would not lock up.



General idea of all the “stuff” packed into the front.








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Discussion Starter #17
The astute observer may have noticed some of the pics have black a-arms and some have silver. I briefly put a set of forward mount arms on the car but had a lengthy conversation with Long Travel Industries about pretty much everything and did some suspension cycling which verified a bumpsteer issue he brought up (terrible with names but I think it was Brian). Great guy and I am a firm believer in his radius rods. I am not a fan of any with heims. I lost count of how many heims I saw bent at KOH both times I went. His have a welded uniball cup and uniball on both ends. They are not adjustable but that really doesn’t matter for about anyone.

I took toe measurements at bump, ride, and droop with the forward mount arms followed by the stock ones. The summary is that the forward mount arms had ~1.6” of toe change (combined, not each tire) through the cycle and the stock had ~0.5” of toe change. If going through a mud pit is all you do this really doesn’t matter. I decided it was too much for my taste and took them off. I will be selling them at some point. I am also pretty sure the steering stabilizer is adding a little toe change/bump steer because the inner pivot is moved out from stock a little bit but I have not had time to pull the front apart and cycle it with the old stripped shocks. The stock rack would never survive so it was this or the much more expensive option, the Shock Therapy rack.

For kicks, here is the tire clearance at full lock with the stock arms and the 34” tires.

To the frame, plenty!


To the front bumper, plenty. Pretty sure 37” tires would fit for the mudders out there without additional lift.


And some more random stuff, like the nice PRP seats with removable seat bottoms with mesh below them so the seat doesn’t turn into a bucket for dirt and water.




A small debris blocker to keep junk out of the radiator along with a good shot of the Factor 55 winch lead, which I love.


Fuse access through the drivers side panel behind the door


Quick release steering wheel and PRP belts to match the seats.



Last, I got my favorite slogan made up in a sticker a pasted on the back “bumper”






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Discussion Starter #18
I took the car out and make sure everything was it good shape before going into the fall show circuit for Lazerstar Lights.



Why portals, here is a good example of the awesome ground clearance. The 34’s get swallowed in the rut but the skid plate doesn’t even come close to touching. I was trying to scratch the belly of this car and it is not easy to do.



The CG is really low with everything put as low as possible inside the car and it shows in this huge tripod.



A good shot of the customized Factory UTV skidplates from that wheel stand. I was actually trying to see if I could get it to flop over and it wouldn’t do it. I am impressed with the performance.



It is never finished but here a few pics I took right before heading out to the Sand Sport Super Show.












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