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Oil thread time...here we go

4K views 30 replies 6 participants last post by  Rzr800s2009 
#1 ·
Hey everyone, I don't mean to be that guy to start an oil thread but I like to hear what oil types and brands people use and longevity and miles. I'm curious cause I've been told to run 0w40 over 5w50 by many RZR owners the other that most suggest is T6 5w50 or even 15w50. I bought some maxima 0w40 sxs specific oil and I'm gonna give it a try. Like to hear who agrees 0w40 is safe to use and/or if you think it's a bad idea. Thx
 
#8 ·
How much are the wix filters? I've been contemplating using a different filter. There are many conflicting opinions on that as well lol. I've read because of the sump on this motor certain filters are bad for it. Again that is just from reading forums and groups so basically not sure lol.
 
#6 ·
I just went through the dowel sticking bullcrap. I polished it still stuck. Replaced the dowel and cleaned the bore and still sticking. So I bit the bullet and tried the 2 5/16 ball bearings and my pressures are perfect by the book specs. With the dowel I was barely getting 1 psi at idle and it would not climb right away at full throttle hell it wouldn't climb until 5000 rpms. With the bearings it's perfect and smooth. So I'll never put the dowel back in ever again. I figured 0w40 would be fine and the racing oil has more zinc and Esther in it. Well any oil has more than ps4 most do anyway. Thx for the reply I like to hear others opinions on oil. It's interesting.
 
#13 ·
 
#14 ·
Good video. Thanks for posting. I haven’t had any issues with the dowel but my RZR was well maintained before I got it and I continue to maintain it well. As mentioned, I squirt some brake cleaner down the bore after removing it and then polish it up.

To remove the dowel, I have a small but powerful magnet that I can put down the bolt hole to grab it. If that doesn’t work or if it’s stuck, you can have someone crank it over briefly after you remove the bolt and spring. The oil pressure should force it out. It’s a good idea to cover it with a towel to catch it and you will make a small mess although the towel helps.
 
#15 ·
Thanks for the info. I am kind of at a lose for words. I had no idea this was an issue or even existed for that matter. Shouldn't this be up there in the Pinion Nut awareness category? Or is this a rare occurrence? This looks like something I will have a problem taking care of.
 
#20 ·
Sounds like you should have received an award for that to me. LOL
I did the pinion nut dance already. In fact we did two in one weekend! It kind of sucked but the second one went much easier. Just get hold of Pullerguy on here and get the tool and parts. Saves a lot of grief.
 
#21 ·
Yea I got a hold of pullerguy. He is awesome! Thank God for people like him that engineer design flaws that the 100 plus thousand a year engineer's at Polaris can't do. I'm next inline to get the tool's. Should be another month or so. Should be fine bit with my luck I'm not crossing my fingers. I'm just gonna send it lol. Was then it you did loose?
 
#23 ·
Both mine and my buddies were very loose. I set the torque wrench on like 30 lbs just to see how much was actually on it thinking I would have to raise it up until I hit what it was at and mine broke loose on that. I estimated it was around 20 lbs. We didn't measure Joes because we did his first but his broke loose like mine did without much effort at all hence why I decided to check mine.
 
#28 ·
There you go man. Just to be on the safe side if you do the bearings. Put an oil pressure gauge on it and monitor the pressures. Should be 6 to 10 psi at idle and between 45 and 60 psi at 6000 rpms. That is hot numbers so if you are really high when you first start it up don't freak out its normal. Depends on how cold it is you can see up to 100 plus psi on cold start. Let it warm up to at least 185 degrees to get the true oil pressure numbers. I had the gauge on for 3 weeks and it was perfect so I took off the gauge and not gonna worry about it anymore.
 
#30 ·
I agree and from my testing I have absolute confidence that it works perfectly and is the perfect fix for the sticking dowel issue. I just have to recommend that you test the pressures just to be sure. I would hate to give advice and cause a problem on anyone's machine but yes it's the same machine so it will and does work.
 
#31 ·
Use anything with as much ZINC in it as possible due to the flat tappet camshaft which you can ask anyone whos put an engine together and wiped any cam lobes off since they stopped putting it in the oil due to plugging of the catalytic converter and the widespread use of rollerized valve train.As for a filter I run K&N exclusively on all of my vehicles open one up you can see why its superior.Run a good filter,oil and zinc/zddp additive you can pick it up at your local Chevrolet dealership in the parts department its for breaking in and running old-school flat tappet engines that live or die based on the first 20mins of its life while the cam breaks in at around the necessary 2000-2200rpm.
 
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