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Fram isn't a bad filter: Fram filters I have to ask | Bob Is The Oil Guy


I don't fret about this stuff so much anymore. A decent filter and proper oil selection for the usage is going to keep you running a long time.
I would have no problem running a Fram filter if it were not for the two I cut open after using them to find the media not completely attached to the can, allowing oil to flow right around the filter media.
 

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The silver can Fram filter is the "Tough Guard". I saw that the gold coloured can "Ultra Synthetic" was on sale locally and just ordered 2 to get ready for the summers riding season. And some Rotella T6 and Hy-PerLube zinc replacement additive.
 

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Nice call stew.

All:
TG uses the card-board top inner media seal and the good media while UG uses a metal one and the good media. Either offers some of the best filtration I can find (damn, now I sound like a f'n commercial). I have no hesitation using either.

Many folks that buy into the cut-open method as something meaningfull seemingly subscribe to a few interesting beliefs. Some like the cardboard because it won't rust no matter what shelf it sat on, and it's cheaper. Other think it means it's "cheap" and won't have anything to do with it. I've seen little to nothing to suggest that carboard seal is actually flawed though. You'd have to ask them why it matters so much, I can't really explain it.

Anyway, if you'll spend some time reading on BITOG this has been done to death, and in some cases by some pretty talented guys. If you look enough Fram had one of the product managers answering questions for a few years too (I've been reading BITOG off and on since Bob started it).

Mind you I don't want to undermine anybody's belief. Heck it ain't my machine, and this ain't life or death. I can offer onlyi this: As an analyst I had to learn to avoid things like confirmation bias, and ultimately learned to seek hard data and large sample sets. For me the litmus of a filter isn't in a Youtube video of a cut-down, it's in something called "beta ratios". Once you get into the mertrics of actual peformance it's pretty obvious.

Lets also agree a Wix or a Purolater is hardly bottom feeder filters. Best no longer, but pretty darn good? Sure!

But to each his own, and God speed to all.

-d
 

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The problem is the filter bypass pressure in many auto filters is only 12-14 or 13-15 psi. The one you need is 18-22 psi. Research your filters I use a PureOne which has the correct bypass pressure. Just because something fits doesn't make it your best choice.
The problem is the filter bypass pressure in many auto filters is only 12-14 or 13-15 psi. The one you need is 18-22 psi. Research your filters I use a PureOne which has the correct bypass pressure. Just because something fits doesn't make it your best choice.
your bike is a turbo?
Which filter are you using?
 

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your bike is a turbo?
Which filter are you using?
By-Pass pressure is in the oil filter. No turbo or bike. I use a Pure One 14610 oil filter and I have 21K miles on my 2015 Rzr 1K. The Pure One has better filtering media and smaller particle filtering. You should be using the Fram because the internal bt-pass pressure is too low. You should not use a regular car filter. The internal by-pass pressure is too low at
13-15 psi and we should be using 18-22 psi.
 

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Bypass pressure is based on the filter media and the pressure delta between each side of it. Shopping for a filter based on bypass pressure absolutely not how you determine whether it's a good filter for an engine.
 

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Bypass pressure is based on the filter media and the pressure delta between each side of it. Shopping for a filter based on bypass pressure absolutely not how you determine whether it's a good filter for an engine.
You are partially correct, but it must be in your final decision. Too low a by-pass pressure allows unfiltered oil to enter at start up. It can happen other time too during certain times if the by-pass pressure is too low for CERTAIN engines. Not all engines are the same. It is based on the differential pressure between the inlet and outlet. Looking for proper parts is not one sided and you must look at all angles. I'm a mechanic and researcher and many years ago I did a research project on oils and filters. Doing this was an eye opener on some less than top quality products. owners are far worse to their gear usually than parts themselves.
 

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Lowered bypass may potentially cycle in more dirty oil. The key is balancing it all out so that you keep oil pressure as dirty oil is better than no oil. Cold start is ALWAYS in bypass.

Without actually having real data on the media, flow, etc, you can't make an accurate assumption of any of it. If all is working well, you can put a before and after pressure sensor on and monitor. It won't tell you when the bypass is cracking though, just the sum of the whole system.

I'm ECU tuner, racer, builder, etc...

All that said, shopping on bypass pressure is not the way to shop for an oil filter. For a spin on filter, I have never once considered bypass pressure.
 

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I have been using a Wix 51358 for my oil changes. I recently purchased a Mobil 1 M1-108A for my wife's SUV and noticed how similar they are in size and the thread is the same. Has anyone used a Mobil 1 M1-108A for their turbo? I know it needs to be a shorter filter due to clearance issues and this is fairly close.

Maybe someone who knows more than me about filters can look them up and chime in because when you cross reference the Wix 51358 is doesn't list the above Mobil 1 filter, it lists a couple of longer ones that I don't believe would work with our clearance. The Mobil 1 would be a tad cheaper and easier to get for me is the only reason I'm asking. Thanks for any help. View attachment 672891
I noticed several years ago that the filters were similar. That is what fit my old Nissan Titan. I have been using them on my old XP900 and my turbo for close to ten years with no oil related trouble.
 
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