I would have no problem running a Fram filter if it were not for the two I cut open after using them to find the media not completely attached to the can, allowing oil to flow right around the filter media.
Oil filter compatibility
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Which line of Fram filter were they?
They were both the silver can. Can't remember what they were called. Not the orange can.
Nice call stew.
All:
TG uses the card-board top inner media seal and the good media while UG uses a metal one and the good media. Either offers some of the best filtration I can find (damn, now I sound like a f'n commercial). I have no hesitation using either.
Many folks that buy into the cut-open method as something meaningfull seemingly subscribe to a few interesting beliefs. Some like the cardboard because it won't rust no matter what shelf it sat on, and it's cheaper. Other think it means it's "cheap" and won't have anything to do with it. I've seen little to nothing to suggest that carboard seal is actually flawed though. You'd have to ask them why it matters so much, I can't really explain it.
Anyway, if you'll spend some time reading on BITOG this has been done to death, and in some cases by some pretty talented guys. If you look enough Fram had one of the product managers answering questions for a few years too (I've been reading BITOG off and on since Bob started it).
Mind you I don't want to undermine anybody's belief. Heck it ain't my machine, and this ain't life or death. I can offer onlyi this: As an analyst I had to learn to avoid things like confirmation bias, and ultimately learned to seek hard data and large sample sets. For me the litmus of a filter isn't in a Youtube video of a cut-down, it's in something called "beta ratios". Once you get into the mertrics of actual peformance it's pretty obvious.
Lets also agree a Wix or a Purolater is hardly bottom feeder filters. Best no longer, but pretty darn good? Sure!
But to each his own, and God speed to all.
-d
All:
TG uses the card-board top inner media seal and the good media while UG uses a metal one and the good media. Either offers some of the best filtration I can find (damn, now I sound like a f'n commercial). I have no hesitation using either.
Many folks that buy into the cut-open method as something meaningfull seemingly subscribe to a few interesting beliefs. Some like the cardboard because it won't rust no matter what shelf it sat on, and it's cheaper. Other think it means it's "cheap" and won't have anything to do with it. I've seen little to nothing to suggest that carboard seal is actually flawed though. You'd have to ask them why it matters so much, I can't really explain it.
Anyway, if you'll spend some time reading on BITOG this has been done to death, and in some cases by some pretty talented guys. If you look enough Fram had one of the product managers answering questions for a few years too (I've been reading BITOG off and on since Bob started it).
Mind you I don't want to undermine anybody's belief. Heck it ain't my machine, and this ain't life or death. I can offer onlyi this: As an analyst I had to learn to avoid things like confirmation bias, and ultimately learned to seek hard data and large sample sets. For me the litmus of a filter isn't in a Youtube video of a cut-down, it's in something called "beta ratios". Once you get into the mertrics of actual peformance it's pretty obvious.
Lets also agree a Wix or a Purolater is hardly bottom feeder filters. Best no longer, but pretty darn good? Sure!
But to each his own, and God speed to all.
-d
Joined
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51 Posts
By-Pass pressure is in the oil filter. No turbo or bike. I use a Pure One 14610 oil filter and I have 21K miles on my 2015 Rzr 1K. The Pure One has better filtering media and smaller particle filtering. You should be using the Fram because the internal bt-pass pressure is too low. You should not use a regular car filter. The internal by-pass pressure is too low at
13-15 psi and we should be using 18-22 psi.
Joined
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51 Posts
You are partially correct, but it must be in your final decision. Too low a by-pass pressure allows unfiltered oil to enter at start up. It can happen other time too during certain times if the by-pass pressure is too low for CERTAIN engines. Not all engines are the same. It is based on the differential pressure between the inlet and outlet. Looking for proper parts is not one sided and you must look at all angles. I'm a mechanic and researcher and many years ago I did a research project on oils and filters. Doing this was an eye opener on some less than top quality products. owners are far worse to their gear usually than parts themselves.
Joined
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1,107 Posts
Lowered bypass may potentially cycle in more dirty oil. The key is balancing it all out so that you keep oil pressure as dirty oil is better than no oil. Cold start is ALWAYS in bypass.
Without actually having real data on the media, flow, etc, you can't make an accurate assumption of any of it. If all is working well, you can put a before and after pressure sensor on and monitor. It won't tell you when the bypass is cracking though, just the sum of the whole system.
I'm ECU tuner, racer, builder, etc...
All that said, shopping on bypass pressure is not the way to shop for an oil filter. For a spin on filter, I have never once considered bypass pressure.
Without actually having real data on the media, flow, etc, you can't make an accurate assumption of any of it. If all is working well, you can put a before and after pressure sensor on and monitor. It won't tell you when the bypass is cracking though, just the sum of the whole system.
I'm ECU tuner, racer, builder, etc...
All that said, shopping on bypass pressure is not the way to shop for an oil filter. For a spin on filter, I have never once considered bypass pressure.
Joined
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7 Posts
I noticed several years ago that the filters were similar. That is what fit my old Nissan Titan. I have been using them on my old XP900 and my turbo for close to ten years with no oil related trouble.
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