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Day one with new rig on the lift in the shop at home, 10 miles on it at dealership. Sitting next to my 2018 TRE and looking ready to race out of the box! I had big expectations of the quality being greatly improved in 2020 and those who have them say they are holding up good. Being ASE cert and years of mechanical and racing experience, I was confident the rig was good. Noticed lot of belt noise like most POOP rigs. Will cover that in another thread. Yes, it's not Honda quality. Knew that going in, but does have solid rep for what it is. Way better than 1980s Honda Odyssey with solid axle. That was a fun rig for it's time.

At the dealer closing the deal and first clues show up. While going over the rig, found a body panel bolt laying in the corner of the radiator flange. From look of water marks in the place it was sitting it had been there a while. Thinking at the time, extra bolt dropped by someone at factory and they grabbed another and moved on. Lot of stickers from various inspectors on the rig in mexican wording. Dealer claims only ATVs are assembled in Mexico. No big deal as long as it's done properly. Many Chevy trucks and other cars are assembled in Mexico.

On the rack at the shop and see the bottom clutch cover bolt was missing! Few minutes later found it in the skid plate. Removed clutch cover for inspection and all appeared normal. Checked torque on everything and all seems good. Started to put cover back on, but noticed access to Prop Shaft or driveshaft flange was good. Checked the bolts and two were loose with no QC paint mark on them. The other 2 had paint mark and where tight. This is an important part and unacceptable by any standard.

Very disappointing to see the tiny front u-joints on the front prop shaft just like my TRE. The front shaft also has some up and down movement when we tested it on the rack with wheels off. It moves up and down a lot more than it should 2/16, but not much vibration. I see a new CV shaft in the near future. Rear is smooth and straight as an arrow at all RPM.

Moved on to taking seat out and back panel off to inspect air filter. See one clip on air filter cover is bent. Try to straighten it best it can be. Air filter is good with grease on the seal. Looking down past oil filter, see another body panel bolt laying on skid plate! Started to feel we made a mistake with this rig after driveshaft bolts. OCD alarm goes off and this starts a few days of intense inspection.

My brother and I start looking for other issues and go all out on inspection of entire rig. He meticulously checked torque on everything to include removal of body panels such as front fenders and dash to ensure nothing is wrong. He noticed roof line of roll cage is a little low on right side, but can't find any reason for this other than factory welding the cage off about 2/16 inch. Jig may be off on all of them at the point of manufacturing? About half of the cage bolts were not tight. Can't turn by hand, but spin with socket 3/4 turn till tight. More fuel for inspection.

I greased all wheel bearings and installed thicker 3/16 cotter pins with loctite on axle nuts. Bearings needed about 12 pumps to be nearly full of grease. Anything more is going to make a mess. Glued all the plastic center caps on wheels. At $30 a pop have no faith in them staying on long after seeing how they pop off TRE if you do hit anything. One shock bolt loose. When I say loose, it needed 1/4 turn to be tight.

Basically what we were seeing is a different color paint pen had been used on all bolts of the left side of the rig than on right side. The right side seem to mostly be at correct spec, the left side all seemed to be under torqued or loose. This theme continued with suspension arms and various bolts on the body and frame to include muffler. So about half of all bolts were not tighten to spec. Not good!

Moving on to shocks, Springs only off left to right 3-4 turns. No big deal. However, when we checked nitrogen charge in the shocks it was off a lot on the front. The left front was 110 and the right front was 60. The rear were 140 left and 150 right. We went to 200 all around and it feels right after short mile test ride. After it has some miles on it we can change it if needed. Just hope the low one up front is not leaking. Previous experience with this indicates the quality control to be the cause of low nitrogen charge. Once charged properly they hold it. Time will tell.

In the mix of all this we found yet another bolt wedged in a body to frame location. These extra bolts of the body panel type are the large star bolts all units have. None of them had any witness marks showing they had ever been installed. The clutch cover bolt is a mystery in itself as it had been installed and then fell out or was left out.

So my advice to all Polaris owners is simple. Check every nut and bolt on your rig and go through it for your safety. The confidence level of knowing your rig is right and tight is priceless. It will pay off later with fewer breakdowns and repairs. Every rig has it's own problems. Polaris is dropping the ball on QC. If you think your rig is perfect because Polaris built it you are wrong. I'm sure other manufactures have some QC issues, but this seems excessive even for POOP rigs.

Hope this helps you prevent problems on your rig.
image000000 (8).jpg image000001.jpg
 

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"Not Honda quality." Have you paid attention to how bad the Honda quality is on there Talon?. Lots of problems and bad suspension design. Maybe you should be glad it is a lot better then "Honda Quality"
 

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Day one with new rig on the lift in the shop at home, 10 miles on it at dealership. Sitting next to my 2018 TRE and looking ready to race out of the box! I had big expectations of the quality being greatly improved in 2020 and those who have them say they are holding up good. Being ASE cert and years of mechanical and racing experience, I was confident the rig was good. Noticed lot of belt noise like most POOP rigs. Will cover that in another thread. Yes, it's not Honda quality. Knew that going in, but does have solid rep for what it is. Way better than 1980s Honda Odyssey with solid axle. That was a fun rig for it's time.

At the dealer closing the deal and first clues show up. While going over the rig, found a body panel bolt laying in the corner of the radiator flange. From look of water marks in the place it was sitting it had been there a while. Thinking at the time, extra bolt dropped by someone at factory and they grabbed another and moved on. Lot of stickers from various inspectors on the rig in mexican wording. Dealer claims only ATVs are assembled in Mexico. No big deal as long as it's done properly. Many Chevy trucks and other cars are assembled in Mexico.

On the rack at the shop and see the bottom clutch cover bolt was missing! Few minutes later found it in the skid plate. Removed clutch cover for inspection and all appeared normal. Checked torque on everything and all seems good. Started to put cover back on, but noticed access to Prop Shaft or driveshaft flange was good. Checked the bolts and two were loose with no QC paint mark on them. The other 2 had paint mark and where tight. This is an important part and unacceptable by any standard.

Very disappointing to see the tiny front u-joints on the front prop shaft just like my TRE. The front shaft also has some up and down movement when we tested it on the rack with wheels off. It moves up and down a lot more than it should 2/16, but not much vibration. I see a new CV shaft in the near future. Rear is smooth and straight as an arrow at all RPM.

Moved on to taking seat out and back panel off to inspect air filter. See one clip on air filter cover is bent. Try to straighten it best it can be. Air filter is good with grease on the seal. Looking down past oil filter, see another body panel bolt laying on skid plate! Started to feel we made a mistake with this rig after driveshaft bolts. OCD alarm goes off and this starts a few days of intense inspection.

My brother and I start looking for other issues and go all out on inspection of entire rig. He meticulously checked torque on everything to include removal of body panels such as front fenders and dash to ensure nothing is wrong. He noticed roof line of roll cage is a little low on right side, but can't find any reason for this other than factory welding the cage off about 2/16 inch. Jig may be off on all of them at the point of manufacturing? About half of the cage bolts were not tight. Can't turn by hand, but spin with socket 3/4 turn till tight. More fuel for inspection.

I greased all wheel bearings and installed thicker 3/16 cotter pins with loctite on axle nuts. Bearings needed about 12 pumps to be nearly full of grease. Anything more is going to make a mess. Glued all the plastic center caps on wheels. At $30 a pop have no faith in them staying on long after seeing how they pop off TRE if you do hit anything. One shock bolt loose. When I say loose, it needed 1/4 turn to be tight.

Basically what we were seeing is a different color paint pen had been used on all bolts of the left side of the rig than on right side. The right side seem to mostly be at correct spec, the left side all seemed to be under torqued or loose. This theme continued with suspension arms and various bolts on the body and frame to include muffler. So about half of all bolts were not tighten to spec. Not good!

Moving on to shocks, Springs only off left to right 3-4 turns. No big deal. However, when we checked nitrogen charge in the shocks it was off a lot on the front. The left front was 110 and the right front was 60. The rear were 140 left and 150 right. We went to 200 all around and it feels right after short mile test ride. After it has some miles on it we can change it if needed. Just hope the low one up front is not leaking. Previous experience with this indicates the quality control to be the cause of low nitrogen charge. Once charged properly they hold it. Time will tell.

In the mix of all this we found yet another bolt wedged in a body to frame location. These extra bolts of the body panel type are the large star bolts all units have. None of them had any witness marks showing they had ever been installed. The clutch cover bolt is a mystery in itself as it had been installed and then fell out or was left out.

So my advice to all Polaris owners is simple. Check every nut and bolt on your rig and go through it for your safety. The confidence level of knowing your rig is right and tight is priceless. It will pay off later with fewer breakdowns and repairs. Every rig has it's own problems. Polaris is dropping the ball on QC. If you think your rig is perfect because Polaris built it you are wrong. I'm sure other manufactures have some QC issues, but this seems excessive even for POOP rigs.

Hope this helps you prevent problems on your rig.
View attachment 657065 View attachment 657066
You should offer this as a service to new owners. I would probably pay someone to be that meticulous, but could never do it myself. Nice job and I’m sure it will
Make a
Huge difference in reliability down the road.


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“Not Honda quality”..... Lol. Go spend some time on the Talon groups on FB. Talons are worse then Polaris for QC.

And btw, not to be a jerk, but saying 2/16” makes you seem like an illiterate. It’s 1/8”. Lol.


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I found a cage bolt between my floor board a skid plate. Scared the crap out of me so I tore all the plastics off looking for something missing. Luckily I wasn't missing one anywhere. My guess is someone dropped it and just grabbed another on the line during assembly. Other than that the quality on mine seems to be much better than what you experienced. Others have mentioned the cage being lower on the right side. I don't have that issue but would like to see a pic of what your talking about.
 

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I do remember finding a random torx head bolt somewhere, but don’t remember where. Also, the nose of my RZR is not perfectly square to the cage/roof line. Never measured, but I’d say it’s off by a good 1/2”. Mexican pride! Lol
 

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Discussion Starter #7
"Not Honda quality." Have you paid attention to how bad the Honda quality is on there Talon?. Lots of problems and bad suspension design. Maybe you should be glad it is a lot better then "Honda Quality"
Exactly! Honda has a few issues, they all do. You wont find extra hardware laying on the Honda skids if it has any. You wont find loose bolts on one side verses the other either. Remember, Quality has nothing to do with the design good or bad. Be happy and consider yourself lucky if your rig was put together with QC in mind. Safety is a big deal on any rig and proper torque is required for safety. Have owned and raced many Honda products for 30 years. None had poor QC like this and I have never heard anyone have such issues. Have you?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
“Not Honda quality”..... Lol. Go spend some time on the Talon groups on FB. Talons are worse then Polaris for QC.

And btw, not to be a jerk, but saying 2/16” makes you seem like an illiterate. It’s 1/8”. Lol.


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LOL My old slide ruler is worn out and hard to read. All I could see were the 2 lines. Sue me for not pulling out my snap-on digital calipers... I don't do FB, so just have to go by what you say. So please share any QC issues. By the way, QC is not about design. Talking about proper assembly of a high performance machine.

FB forbidden at my house. After bullies relentlessly harassed a family friend on FB for weeks who just graduated high school she killed herself. Drove her car onto the tracks at 3am in front of approaching train. Since learning how bad other kids abused the FB program in this way we no longer use it. Hopefully you will never have such an experience.
 

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No kidding I avoid it like the Wuhan virus. I did make an account to check out the marketplace but that's it. I can get all my social drama on Forums.

Can one of you guys send a picture of where you cage is lower on the right? I'm not seeing it on mine but now I'm paranoid.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Wuhan :)

I'll get a pic of roll bar next time the windshield and roof is off for enclosure install. Loaded up and heading out for camp in day or so. Need some miles to sort out any issues and have some fun.
 

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I just bought a used 2020. I wish I had a lift so it would be easier to get to all the parts. Either way thanks for the heads up. I will be checking all that I can. Also, what is POOP rig? Does that mean it's just a piece💩?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
LOL, I just say that after all the problems I had on my TRE then see this same trend on the 2020 RS1 kinda feels like a big let down. My 2018 TRE issues: 2 belts in first 74 miles, Leaking front diff at 400+ miles, Diff bearing failure at 600 miles, failed brakes due to broke axle while eating wheel bearing and hub as it exited on steep downhill and the tiny front u-joints on a crawler that should be a beefy rig from the start. Poop rig seems to fit. So many little issues that should not be ongoing for 2-3 years. They should fix these issues instead of letting the custom suffer through it all and fix it for them. Like the overall design of Polaris. However, I need a few minutes with QC and engineer behind the wood shed just to make me feel better :) They ignore these issues....
 

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I pray, I mean really pray I don't have that bad of luck with my new ride. I'm used to riding a Honda Cr250 which was built right IMO. I never had a problem abrupt & forceful stopping didn't cause. Now that my body no-longer stands the abuse I've been lead back to 4 wheels.
Do you have a lot of experience with the RS1 or other rigs used to piece it together to say it is seriously a pooper?
I'm glad you brought my attention to the lack of QC before I ride.
Cheers!
 

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LOL, I just say that after all the problems I had on my TRE then see this same trend on the 2020 RS1 kinda feels like a big let down. My 2018 TRE issues: 2 belts in first 74 miles, Leaking front diff at 400+ miles, Diff bearing failure at 600 miles, failed brakes due to broke axle while eating wheel bearing and hub as it exited on steep downhill and the tiny front u-joints on a crawler that should be a beefy rig from the start. Poop rig seems to fit. So many little issues that should not be ongoing for 2-3 years. They should fix these issues instead of letting the custom suffer through it all and fix it for them. Like the overall design of Polaris. However, I need a few minutes with QC and engineer behind the wood shed just to make me feel better :) They ignore these issues....
Not to defend the QC and engineers but before you come down on them . Grab the clowns in the bow ties with theeir sharpened little pencils . I worked for 30 years in QC ( not Polaris ) and we were often told " That's good enough , it's too expensive to fix "
 

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I pray, I mean really pray I don't have that bad of luck with my new ride. I'm used to riding a Honda Cr250 which was built right IMO. I never had a problem abrupt & forceful stopping didn't cause. Now that my body no-longer stands the abuse I've been lead back to 4 wheels.
Do you have a lot of experience with the RS1 or other rigs used to piece it together to say it is seriously a pooper?
I'm glad you brought my attention to the lack of QC before I ride.
Cheers!
I think its hit or miss. Other than an extra bolt mine has been flawless.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I pray, I mean really pray I don't have that bad of luck with my new ride. I'm used to riding a Honda Cr250 which was built right IMO. I never had a problem abrupt & forceful stopping didn't cause. Now that my body no-longer stands the abuse I've been lead back to 4 wheels.
Do you have a lot of experience with the RS1 or other rigs used to piece it together to say it is seriously a pooper?
I'm glad you brought my attention to the lack of QC before I ride.
Cheers!
CR250 was a serious race bike. Make you a tough guy just racing one every week. I raced 4 stroke bikes before they became mainstream. I liked the 4 strokes and could ride them faster. Lot of trophies and state championship. Just trail ride these days.

My mechanical experience is vast in automotive and powersports, ASE cert. Raced bikes, snowmobiles, drag cars and such which I built and modified. No experience with RS1 until now. Basically same as my 2018 TRE that gets a good 1,200 miles a year in Colorado. It replaced my Jeep and I drive it knowing it must make it back to camp daily for 2 weeks at a time before it gets maintenance. The TRE did not have QC issues just design issues.

Just sharing my experience to help others and hope the Mother Ship Polaris wakes up one day to take action. They don't sell enough RS1 rigs to be very concerned IMO. Brother found some new plastic rivets in front diff area when he tied it down in the trailer. It's always a concern to see left over hardware. However, none of it appears to have been installed except the clutch cover bolt. Just dropped extra hardware everywhere... Biggest concern is all the loose bolts that were never properly torqued.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
200 mile update. No problems to speak of.

Slight timing chain noise, but that should go away soon with first service and more miles so the auto adjuster can click into next notch. Clutch has been quiet with Hunter Works belt and very smooth starts.

After adjusting the springs on both right side shock springs the rig no longer sags lower on the right side. You can't go by measuring the adjustable rings to get springs equal left to right. The springs are slightly weaker on one side. Have tested this with scales under tires like they do on race cars. Not getting into that procedure here. Just don't be afraid to adjust shock collars a few turns more on one side or the other to level out the suspension ride height left to right. It will change over time as springs take a set. 200psi Nitrogen charge has been impressive in ride quality and jumps. Covers fast trails so easy with clickers on shocks set to softer side. They don't work as well with lower charge.
 

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Although I am happy with my RS1 I would agree that Polaris could learn from Honda! I purchased two RS1's with consecutive serial numbers and one has decent quality control with fit and finish and the second one is WTF what idiot did they have put this one together. The warranty is too short to find issues and now I have to fix a leaking rear shock and a hard to shift transmission out of warranty. I just sold two 30 year old Honda Pilots and the shocks never leaked. With only 25 hours on the machines I am very disappointed in both Polaris and Walker Evans. Having owned Honda's over the last 30 years I never had these issues. Just Saying.....
 

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Honda Pilots are small and light.
Talons are bigger and heavier like RZR's and they have almost as many problems as RZR's so I don't buy the Honda is so good ..... talk.
I went to buy a Talon at Abernathy's and after I checked them out my gut feeling said run away from this.
I did and bought a RS1 instead and am still glad I did.
Honda can learn some things from Polaris too.
Like shifting dogs in the low range transmission that don't round off after one or two times slipping out of gear because of a poorly designed shifter quadrant and low quality steel in the dogs.
Or maybe an air intake that doesn't suck up road dust and ruin a $40.00 filter in one or two rides.
Or a real locker in the front instead of a suv type psuedo locker that doesn't work just when you really need it to..
Or maybe put some plastic up front to block some of the heat.
Or maybe put a boot on the shifter to block some of the heat.
Or maybe put some springs on there that don't need to be changed before you take it home from the dealer.
Or maybe put some double shear connecting points for the suspension on the spindles so they don't break.
Or maybe find some front differential seals that don't leak time after time after time.
I am open to different makes, but no Honda for me.
Just saying....
 
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