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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here's what going on...Front end is toed out to where it runs weird on pavement..Here's what I have found out and have tried....In the garage I set to toe adjust so everything is straight and true..But as soon as I leave the garage it all changes and everything is tight...I noticed when parking pointing down hill just my driveway nothing steep the toe moves out and when I turn it around in the same driveway pointing up hill the toe moves in...Here 's the bad part while pointing down it measures 45 inches from center to center across the front of the tire..When pointing up hill it measures 41 from center to center across the front of the tire. And when i pull back into the garage in ends up around 43 across the centers...My question is should the suspense let the machine raise and fall this much on a slight slope...Are my front shocks and springs shot??What causing all this movement...I have noticed when I hit the brakes I see the frontend drop some and when I fuel it the front end raises up...Thanks for any ideas..
 

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I had the same problem with the "bobbing" on gas and brake. I replaced my springs and that took care of it. As far as the alignment goes I know you get some "flex" but not sure what is standard. Good luck
 

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Push down hard on the nose of your RZR an quickly let go ("bounce" it). Does the nose rise back up and stop there or does it bounce a few times before settling? If it does cycle more than once your shocks are bad. Regardless of that your springs alone should not allow that much suspension travel with just changing the slope of the grade mildly- ie. your springs are definitely shot but don't despair, putting progressive rate springs on even stock shocks is soooo much better than stock springs.

Oh, BTW, it is normal to have the toe change during compression and rebound of the suspension- it is a function of the A-arm geometry and the pivot points of the tie rods.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Push down hard on the nose of your RZR an quickly let go ("bounce" it). Does the nose rise back up and stop there or does it bounce a few times before settling? If it does cycle more than once your shocks are bad. Regardless of that your springs alone should not allow that much suspension travel with just changing the slope of the grade mildly- ie. your springs are definitely shot but don't despair, putting progressive rate springs on even stock shocks is soooo much better than stock springs.

Oh, BTW, it is normal to have the toe change during compression and rebound of the suspension- it is a function of the A-arm geometry and the pivot points of the tie rods.
What springs should I be looking for.. have only had the machine a few months so it all new to me. Shocks seem good no bouncing.
 

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Depends on budget, riding style. I got the super atv and was very happy for cost/performance. Within that price range some go hilifter. All depends on your budget and how you ride.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Depends on budget, riding style. I got the super atv and was very happy for cost/performance. Within that price range some go hilifter. All depends on your budget and how you ride.
Thanks I will start looking right now....
 

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are your tie rod ends on the bottom of the spindle if not you will get alot of bump steer i know this had a dealer put them on wrong handled like crap untill i moved them to the bottom
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Just went out and looked tie rods are sitting on top. Are you saying they should come in threw the bottom and the nut s should be on top.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I bought it used and dealer said they put a new front end diff in it...Never thought it handled very good..I will change that tomorrow along with a new spring set..Thanks
 

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RZR55
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are your tie rod ends on the bottom of the spindle if not you will get alot of bump steer i know this had a dealer put them on wrong handled like crap untill i moved them to the bottom
What is bump steering
the geometry of the front ends on these are such if the tie rods are on top when the suspension moves up and down it will toe in or out the tires change it to the bottom side and drive it bet it handles alot better
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
are your tie rod ends on the bottom of the spindle if not you will get alot of bump steer i know this had a dealer put them on wrong handled like crap untill i moved them to the bottom
What is bump steering
the geometry of the front ends on these are such if the tie rods are on top when the suspension moves up and down it will toe in or out the tires change it to the bottom side and drive it bet it handles alot better
WOW thanks for the help..Moved tie rods down to the bottom of spindle and it now drives as good as my truck...Wholly what a differance..It stopped all the toe in and toe stuff..Feels 150% better...Thanks again that was just what it needed...
 

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Glad your problem was solved!

You asked about "bump steer". It is a change in toe of a wheel when the suspension is compressed ( in "bump" ) or rebound. It's presence, or ideally absence, is determined by the pivot point location/ arc of rotation of the toe link (in this case the tie rod for the front wheels). In an ideal setup, designed SOLELY with bump steer in mind which is never the case, the arc of rotation of the tie-rod from the inboard pivot would be identical to the arc of rotation that the outboard ball joint makes relative to the inboard pivot (with the tie-rod disconnected) during upward/downward wheel travel. For overall ideal handling this is never the case so some degree of bump-steer is present and can be desirable. On an independent rear suspension vehicle, bump steer, when excessive, can be very detrimental to handling. On the RZR I have under full "bump" the rears toe in about 3mm per side. This cannot be adjusted because the rear RZR A-arms (actually a misnomer) have no toe-link. I presume this is designed in to the geometry intentionally as it will provide increase rear stability under heavy compression. In some race cars I have driven, mainly formula open wheel cars, we adjusted rear bump-steer to either toe in, stay neutral, or even toe out under rear compression to affect power on under or oversteer on corner exit (a very useful tool). On a RZR you cannot adjust for bump-steer unless you have aftermarket A-arms with Heim joints at the pivots that will allow for changes in the suspension arm geometry. In your case, having the outboard tie-rod pivot positioned incorrectly really affected your front "bump steer". On a side note, changing to a progressive rate spring and better shock will improve the ride/handling as much as getting the tie rod situation corrected...it is that big of a difference over the stock stuff.
 

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You're welcome...ain't no thang but a chickin wang!
 

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I had the same thing going on after a trip to the dealer for diff change under warranty. Bump steer was stupid, i kept looking for something lose kept measuring couldn't figure out was going on, finally noticed one tie rod on top and the other on the bottom. put the tie rod back on the bottom problem curred :ride:
 
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