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Discussion Starter #161 (Edited)
Got a short ride in on Saturday, went out to a little honey hole that is somewhat forgotten about around here called the Rock Garden, but it was a fun time. Outside temp was cooler, maybe 65 ish, and it was almost entirely super slow speed crawling save for the mile drive back to the truck. Highest belt temp I saw as 180 and that was on the fast run back to the truck, it stayed around 140-160 in the rocks the whole time. Engine temp stayed very cool as well, Highest I saw was 190 when I stopped to walk a climb real quick, other than that it stayed in the high 170's and low 180's for the whole ride. I didn't put a coolant temp gauge on for the intercooler, and I wasn't building boost very often at all, but the intercooler and exchanger were pretty much cool to the touch anytime i checked by hand.. so far it's looking like the setup is working as it should, won't have a "hot day" test until next summer probably, but next time out I'm going to run it hard and take some data logs to check it out in that scenario, I'm optimistic that it will do nothing but good for me!

Front diff is smooth as butter, these rocks have insane grip since they aren't trafficked very often, even more so than Moab or the Canyon I normally ride in, I don't think I even even slipped a front wheel all day.

Overall a great shakedown on the rocks for everything with no issues, I'll beat on it a bit in the coming weeks for a full test.

A few pics and a video from the day:









Some of that low gear crawling love :grin
 

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Lookin good Richard!
 

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Discussion Starter #165
Anxious to hear your review on those in comparison to the Crawlers.

What size are they?



Chris


I’m anxious to give it! But it’ll probably be a little bit before I actually get them mounted and on the trail, planning on doing a legitimate 4 wheel alignment when I put them on, since I have some adjustability in everything now.

34-10-14 XT Warrior, the sticky variety.... and they are crazy soft too. Should measure about 33” mounted on the machine I think, which is the “actual” tire size I wanted really.


-Give it a second... it had to go to space and back first ( Sent from the lifeline that is my iPhone XS Max )
 

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Discussion Starter #167
With your gear reduction you need a bigger tire ?


I was thinkin now I need more gear reduction! :grin


-Give it a second... it had to go to space and back first ( Sent from the lifeline that is my iPhone XS Max )
 

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Discussion Starter #169

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Discussion Starter #170
Couple Updates from the weekend:

First, if you don't run a catch can...I highly suggest it. In the stock form, all the gunk in the pic below will run through your turbine, charge tube, all across your sensors, through your intercooler, across the throttle body, and burn through the cylinder, definitely not optimal, this collection is from about 60 miles of varied throttle and riding....


Second... I upgraded from my harbor freight ratchet strap cooler mount to these slick steel brackets from Big Hammer Fab. I will caution you that these take about 3 weeks to ship if you order them, and I ordered mine raw without powdercoat even. He has them for several different cooler options, and they're solid and pretty sweet looking. I would recommend his hardware as well, and just using a normal lock and ride mount allows for some movement, his hardware keeps it rock solid.




Discovered after Saturday my left front shock is developing the somewhat common leak at the reservoir....Shock rebuild & valving was planned for this winter, so it looks like it will be perfect timing.


Haven't gotten the new shoes mounted up yet, but I took her out Saturday to burn a little more of the Crawlers (which measure an astonishing 29.75" now if anyone is keeping track lol). I might get a day to get everything mounted and aligned this weekend, but not sure yet....as with everything I do...pieces keep getting added to the project lol.

Here's a little clip of a climb everyone told me couldn't be done in a RZR, it's not the best video since the guy was standing so close, and you don't get to see the whole obstacle....but you can see the sketchy exit at least lol


Better go make some RZR funding, have a good week everyone!
 

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Discussion Starter #171 (Edited)
I got a day in the garage Saturday and managed to get the tires mounted and a full alignment done too.

Mounting tires is never a real fun time, but this tool right here makes a word of difference if you don't have a full on tire machine in your garage, I picked one up for about $65 on eBay I think, definitely a great tool to have around for UTV & ATV tires, I'm sure I'll find a few other uses for it too.


Mounted up with no load and at 10 psi side by side.... the 34" XT Warriors measured about 33.75", the 32" Pro Armor Crawler XG with the most remaining tread (about 50%) measured right at 30".

32x10r14 Pro Armor on 14x7 5+2 STI HD5 Beadlock - 54.2 lbs (new)

34x10r14 Super ATV XT Warrior (Sticky) on the same wheel - 67.6 lbs (new)

Wheel Alone weights 15.6 lbs, Warriors are 52.0 lbs tire only


For the alignment, I built a set of setup rods to put in place of the shocks for the alignment to make it easier for everything. Removing lower control arms, measuring camber, setting toe, everything is easier where you don't have to deal with the inconsistencies of the suspension settling, and the resistance of the tires. Set ( or measure if not adjusting ) your ride heights first with the suspension settled, measure eye to eye on the shocks at that ride height, set the rods to that length, then swap the shocks out for the rods, now you can set it on stands with the tires off and make all adjustments and measure everything, takes a minute to build the rods, but once you have them, any future alignments are quick and easy.

I used two pieces of 3/4" hardwood for toe plates and they worked out great.

I also had added 1" of ride height from the recommended shock therapy settings that came with my springs, just to give myself a touch more clearance for the rocks. Now, going from essentially 30's to 33's... I took that 1" of preload out to keep the center of gravity a bit lower, and still gained the extra 1/2" of clearance from the tires, I'm happy with that compromise, I've always wanted it to sit lower, but knew I needed to clearance for the riding I do, should be a pretty sweet spot now.






I ended up with -1.8° camber, +2.5° caster, & 1/8" toe in in the front, 0° camber in the rear, and about 1/8" toe out, which is what they come setup with from the factory.




I'm also going to give a set of 1" wheel spacers a run on the rear wheels to even the width front to rear and see how I like it, running 5+2 wheels all the way around makes the rear 2" narrower than the front compared to stock with a 10" tire. So now it's all even back up, actual width measured at the outside edge of the tires in 69" front and rear as it sits now.


Also picked up this front tie down loop and tow hook from ZRP, I've wanted something there to tie to for a while, I thought this piece looked pretty good with the factor 55 prolink on my winch.


I didn't get a chance to take it out for a spin since I had some other duties to attend to, but I'll try and sneak out one afternoon/evening this week to get an initial impression!

Without riding them, my impressions so far on the XT Warriors is that the sticky compound is one of the softest tires I've every felt in my life, you can twist the tread blocks a good 30° with just your hand, probably even a bit more on the outer lugs, they won't last long compared to a normal or hard compound tire, but I was well aware of that going in, and I can say my asphalt time will be limited more so than in the past, but they should stick to the rocks like glue, I'm excited to get them on some climbs. They measure damn close to a true 34" with no load on them, Thank you Super ATV for that! The load of the machine does compress them a bit more that the harder pro armors with less sidewall, but that is expected, the measure right at 33" with the machine weight on them. The beads on them are extra thick, around 1/2" compared to maybe 5/16" on the pro armors, they seem like a well formed tire, and they look pretty good too. I wasn't the biggest fan of the look in pictures, but they look better to me in person. A true flat top tire always looks better aesthetically to me, but these aren't too bad. Tons of tread depth, gobs of sidewall to flex, and a tread pattern that should clean out well and grip excellent. So far, so good with them!


Project Beer Count: 6
 

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Are you running factory UTV skid plates with the super ATVTrader front end gusset kit? Did this require you to make any modifications to the skid plate or do you just bolt it on over top of the gusset plate? I’m think about running this same setup.


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Discussion Starter #173 (Edited)
Are you running factory UTV skid plates with the super ATVTrader front end gusset kit? Did this require you to make any modifications to the skid plate or do you just bolt it on over top of the gusset plate? I’m think about running this same setup.


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Indeed I am, and I'm glad you asked, I forgot to include that part in the write up from when I did all that, and i didn't think of it again until the other day.

It does take some modification...The SATV brace covers the holes that the skid plate uses in the frame, so it would not bolt back up, and it would have hung down about 1/4" from the rearward section and left a big edge to drag on.

My solution was to drill and tap the SATV plate with new mounting holes, and then I put the skid plate in my vice and heated and bent it to an angle so it would mate up and not leave an edge hanging down. ( I got a little too aggressive at one spot and put a small crack in the skid plate, so use caution if you use this method)




I actually drilled and tapped continuous holes through the SATV brace and the frame of the RZR, so it actually further attaches the brace to the chassis even, and there's enough material there that just the tapped hole with some loc tite on the bolt holds very well. You could use a nut and bolt with just a through hole if you wanted too.

I will say to do this AFTER you install the lower control arm bolts...the bracket takes a little finesse to get on, and if you do it before you install the LCA bolts, it may make it harder... I also found out that after you get the LCA bolts in, and through bolts in the skid plate through the brace and the frame.... your LCA bolt holes will stay lined up much better and you won't have any hassle in the future if you take the arms off for any reason.
 

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Discussion Starter #175 (Edited)
Just got back from a great day of riding, because any day on the rocks should be a great day!

I started a review thread for the new tires Here so to keep from repeating myself & double posting, I'm going to put all the tire talk there for now ( Haven't updated for this ride just yet, might be a couple days).

So in the never ending quest to find this mystical voodoo demon that's causing my rapid high belt temps at WOT (yup, back on that crap again), I picked up a known good, but used primary clutch from another forum member in an attempt to rule out pretty much all that was left in the clutch assembly, (the sheaves are all that i hadn't previously replaced) I disassembled and cleaned this clutch up over the week, put a new set of SLP power pucks in, moved my springs and weights over, verified the balance of the weights with a jewelers scale, scuffed up the sheaves (secondary too), and put my SLP clutch cover on. I also replaced the belt at this time since I was putting a new clutch in and I had about 1000 miles on the belt that was in it.... I used a Gboost World's Best Belt this time (1202 PN)..not because I think it's better, but just because it's new, and of course I'm an idiot and had to try it just to have an opinion I guess, I'd still tell anyone that asked to stick with OEM, but I'm my own guinea pig sometimes.






On Wednesday night I was getting ready to put the clutch on and was looking over things and discovered I had a broken rear transmission mount:


I honestly have no idea how long this mount has been broken, and I'm almost embarrassed that I hadn't noticed it up until now...but it had been broken long enough that after further inspection I noticed it has taken it's toll on the motor mounts as well as they were bent, twisted, and misaligned:




My first thought was that that was a good possibility it was causing a shift and twist in the engine/trans mount during acceleration and it was going to be the belt temp demon I had been looking for all along....unfortunately that didn't turn out to be the case....but it was Wednesday, and I was riding this weekend....so I needed trans & motor mounts in a hurry....I did some quick research and picked up these gems from Hess Motorsports, and had to painfully pay for overnight shipping on them:


Billet & Urethane trans mounts & side brackets, engine mounts, and billet crossbar, and they are works of art too, very fine pieces with precise machining. They also use 10mm bolts in place of the stock 8mm, so the holes in the chassis must be drilled out to accommodate the larger bolts. I'm normally not a big fan of permanent modification to the chassis that wouldn't allow for the stock parts to be used in a pinch....but in this case, it seemed logical and worth it. I also had to notch the heat shield behind the exhaust to clear the new bolts, it's not absolutely necessary, but it prevents you form having to pull the exhaust and heat shield in the future to get the mount out.


A Saturday evening & Sunday morning thrash got these installed in time, and in the process I pulled the inner clutch cover so I had a chance to verify it wasn't warped,,bent or cracked..all checked out visually and with a straight edge and flat surface (thankfully!). these are much stronger & more rigid than the factory rubber isolaters, so that has it's trade offs...it's more efficient power transfer due to less flex, but it also makes the engine vibration transmit though the chassis more and you can feel it... I'll tell you next week if the wife notices the difference.. I can feel it, but I don't think it's excessive..we'll see tho....it did transfer enough vibration that my roof developed a rattle, which I intend to fix with a little sound deadener because that's all I'll have time for this week since I'm headed out of town for the week after work on Monday (the RZR is coming....for a ride, and other soon to be revealed reasons...hint...I'm going to Phoenix....)




Used the alignment tool for setup and verification as always....still slides on and off as smooth as can be...


So anyway, after all that, I made no progress in the belt temp debacle, still behaves exactly the same as before, did a 25 mile low gear break in on the belt with 3 stops for cooling, then took it easy for the first few miles of the actual ride, belt seems to work good, but still gets hot quickly at WOT.

One interesting thing to note...I went from a 38 lb 32" tire to a 52 lb 34" tire, in the process of making sure my weights were balanced I actually ended up adding .4g of weight via SLP's "projected tip" set screws...and my shift out RPM actually seems to have gone up from 8250-8300 to 8500-8550....belt has to be slipping right? That's my thought at this point.....I'm already over the heavy mark for the recommended weight will all my parameters considered, and now, I'm at the very top of the suggested RPM range....so....add weight? (which would require new base weights since I'm maxed out in the current ones) In theory, that would provide more belt grip and reduce the RPM....but who the hell knows with my cursed machine....I'm gonna think that one over for a while, probably contact Jerry at SLP again for some insight....

It was a great day of riding none the less, and much to the misfortune of my buddy...I actually had to use that winch I've been disguising as an ornament for about a year now....his rzr decided to take a little nap on a rock and needed some assistance waking back up...

(The roof took all the damage, everything and everybody was ok otherwise)




The crew for the day: (we should be getting paid by Polaris by now lol.... over 9 years we've had 15 machines between the 4 of us)


Bailey....showing off some walker link with stock sway bar flex:

One more day at the works then a week off! Hope some of you guys get some time off this week too!
 

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Another skid plate question if you don’t mind. Are you running factory UTV’s aluminum bash plate? It’s an extra $200. I’m not doing any rock crawling, just general trail riding. Just trying to figure out if the juice is worth the squeeze. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #177
Another skid plate question if you don’t mind. Are you running factory UTV’s aluminum bash plate? It’s an extra $200. I’m not doing any rock crawling, just general trail riding. Just trying to figure out if the juice is worth the squeeze. Thanks
Don't mind at all! That's one of the reasons I have this thread going for :smile

No bash plate for me. I'm running the 1/2' skid and that has proven to be plenty sufficient.
 

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Discussion Starter #179
Picked up the finished product yesterday afternoon, It was cool to actually get to go by the shop and talk to the guys (and gals) at Shock Therapy, and for the first people I've ever let touch my rzr with a wrench, they did a great job. I am very happy with the experience @Shock Therapist !

Got the RIS revalving done & I also had them do a full rebuild on all 4 shocks and got front limit straps installed since I'm running such a heavy wheel/tire setup now. Also got a little bit of bling from their new billet preload collars on the rear. The front collars where out of stock, but I'll get them ordered when they're back in stock. Anxious to get it out and feel the new hotness!





 

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I looked at their limits strap setup and I really like it but could not stomach $300 for a set of two and I ended up using SCR limit straps. However, with the new portal setup I find myself looking at them again for front shocks. At the shock collars $54ea or for a set of 2?
 
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