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Polaris quality is pretty horrible, I will be the first to admit that. However, you can get a brand new turbo for what like $15k now? Thats pretty dang cheap.. I don't think you could touch a X3 for under $20K. I would rather save the $5K and fix the junk that breaks on the Polaris.

Honda has a great rep for reliability and I totally get it. 1 person in our group has a Pioneer and it always tows the broken Polaris' back. We joke and say "Polaris way forward, Honda way home" lol
 

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I'd be really surprised if the Talon sells for less than $20,000. It's pretty easy to find XP's around $14,500 - $15,000. Pretty hard to compete with that. Hopefull the DCT in the Talon won't have the clucth problems that they had with the Pioneer. I'll look at it and wait for the reviews and probably wait for year 2 model. If the price differential is too much my R and T will be safe. Now if Polaris would give us shift on the fly between low and high I'm not sure if I'd even look at the Honda.
Dwight
 

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Now if Polaris would give us shift on the fly between low and high I'm not sure if I'd even look at the Honda.
Dwight
That is one thing I hate! Especially with my 800S, I am constantly having to stop and shift to high to keep up with the others. Between the HP, gearing, and bigger tires, I feel like I have to switch 10X as often as anyone else.
 

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I've been waiting for a long time to see Honda get into the performance SxS market. No way I'll take the leap on a first-year model, but I'll definitely be watching closely for the future. Honda makes great products and if their SxS is anywhere near as good as their dirtbikes and quads (I've owned several in the past), they could dominate the industry within a few years.

I can't say I'll 100% for sure make the switch to Honda, but I definitely won't rule it out either. It won't happen right now, but maybe by the time I'm ready to move on from my current XP1K.
 

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u-joints, wheel bearings, a-arm bushings, spring quality, carrier bearings, prop shaft spline wear, front half shaft spline wear and multiple cvt weaknesses gets really old. These have all been common problems that have been present for several years and continue to be ignored by Polaris.
These are not common problems, they are usually are ignored by the user until they wear out. Proper maintenance goes a long way in maintaining a good working machine. I see it all the time where folks whine about XXX part broke yet they beat on the machine and do little maintenance.

Bushings - wear item and meant to be replaced under maintenance.

Wheel bearings, propshaft splines, & axles shaft splines wear ONLY happens because they are not maintained properly (IE clean & grease the damn thing).

90% of belt issues are driver induced.

Spring setups are a personal preference so it's hard for a MFG to please all so a basic setup is provided. However, I would like to see Polaris provide a true dual rate setup from the factory.

The whole point is if people would maintain their rig parts would last longer. This is NOT a Polaris thing, it's a user thing and will happen with any MFG. There have been legitimate issues over the years but I think for the most part Polaris gets a bad rap sometimes because of the shear number of units on the market.


Having said all that, it always good to see competition among MFGs as it breeds better
quality and performance at a lower price.
You sir are entitled to your opinion.

However I am meticulous when it comes to my machine. I am a maintenance engineer by trade and take very good care of my equipment.

I am sure lack of maintenance is a common culprit for some. But the components I mentioned are more material and design related.

Wheel bearings failed in less than 2k miles even though I greased them before ever riding the machine for the 1st time.

Passenger side trailing arm spherical bearing failed within 500 miles due to teflon liner flaking apart. Replaced them with stainless bearings. I considered this to be a random failure.

Splines wear do to soft material. The design of the prop shaft puts excessive movement in the system. Weird phaseing of the u-joints, excessive operating angles and insuffecient carrier bearing all stack up to create tons of wobble and vibration that eventually wears the splines on the shaft. Sure you can grease the slip yokes every ride but the grease does not distribute around the entire splined area. It instead travels the path of least resistance until it squirts out. A good greasing will not even last an entire ride before mud and water infiltrates the coupled parts.

The suspension springs sag in short order again due to material properties. The stock springs require far more adjustments to maintain OEM ride height than any after market spring. Again, this is only ride height. I am not talking rider preference which is very subjective.

The square pucks on the secondary is a joke. Seriously who thought that was a good idea. My biggest problem with the stock setup is jerky engagement. I know how to treat a belt. I have never had a belt break. I run low most of the time, only using high range when appropriate. I also pull out in a manner that does not allow the belt to slip. The jerky starts usually begin within a couple hundred miles of a new belt.

So yes, these most certainly are repeating design issues that continue to go unaddressed.

I will say I have heard but not confirmed that the rear slip yoke that attaches to the transmission shaft now has o-rings to retain the grease. This should seal out the contamination and reduce spline wear.
 

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As you are entitled to your opinion. My comments were not so much directed at you but just in general because of items you mentioned. Sorry but you are incorrect on several things but it's not worth arguing over, you have already formed your opinion.
 

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Those are def common problems....Not sure how you can due maintenance on a sealed bearing or bushings other then grease them.
 

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Hard to blame it on maintenance when the aftermarket parts last much longer than original components.

OEM a-arm bushings are soft plastic with fairly soft metal inserts. Aftermarket is delrin bushings with hardened inserts that last for.....well never heard of any that have been replaced.

Aftermarket suspension springs need adjusted once...maybe twice to maintain ride height.

Again. Not blasting polaris. I love my xp. But I do see the areas that could stand to be improved. Hopefully the increased competition in the market will provoke these simple changes.
 

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Forgot to mention plastic sway bar bushings that almost never take grease because it oozes out where the two halves meet instead of flowing in the grease channels surrounding the bar. Again...simple change to urethane bushings and never touch them again.
 

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Those are def common problems....Not sure how you can due maintenance on a sealed bearing or bushings other then grease them.
Wheel bearing greaser:



Bushings are a "wear" item and not meant to last forever but when properly maintained (cleaned & greased) will last a long time.
 

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Discussion Starter #31 (Edited)
[QUOTE
The square pucks on the secondary is a joke. Seriously who thought that was a good idea. My biggest problem with the stock setup is jerky engagement. I know how to treat a belt. I have never had a belt break. I run low most of the time, only using high range when appropriate. I also pull out in a manner that does not allow the belt to slip. The jerky starts usually begin within a couple hundred miles of a new belt./QUOTE]

The square pucks in 2017 was a mistake but not changing them for the next 2 years is my beef. There are a lot of people that become disalusioned after having to replace both clutches at 1000 to 1500 miles. Not everyone that buys these has a clue.
If you want to make a major improvement to the clutching (besides changing to round rollers in the driven) there are a couple of things that help.
Most dealers carry or can order a stainless steel shim washer made by Comet. You can almost always place one on the thrust side of the weight and sometimes on both sides. It stops wear and improves the backshift.
More complicated one...The drive clutches come with excess belt side clearance and no shim washers behind the Spider to adjust (like with sleds). I remove my spider and have the back machined to bring the clutch sheaves closer together. On sleds we went .020 but .030 seems to be OK with the XP1K. This makes engagement very smooth and eliminates the jerky start and crow hopping. It also helps the clutch hold gear longer going downhill. But if you do this R’s drop so clutch weights may need to be changed or ground lighter. On 18’s and probably 19’s Polaris didn’t machine the towers all the way to the bottom so some light grinding with a Dremel is required. It’s a lot of work, not expensive but it makes a big difference.
 

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After 6 RZR’s in the last 10 years, 30+ Polaris sleds since 1981...I put a deposit on the new Honda Talon today. It won’t be available until spring so I have a few months to see what Polaris does in the interim.
The clutch dirt and constant maintenance is one factor but the Polaris build quality is a bigger one. The amount of customization for basic’s and the cost is also getting old. The 2019 XP 1000 had such crappy colors that I bought a 2018 last October. My third one in a row with the square pucks in the driven; belt side clearance off 50 thousandths; door openings off so much that I had to grind each opening and then huge gaps all around. The Ride Command had 3 year old maps and 2 year old software and still has issues after getting updates from Samantha. I could Go on but have finally run out of patience. It’s a great, fun machine but I’m ready for a change. I hope the increased competition gets Polaris off their butt like happened with Snowmobiles.
It is certainly ok in my book to vote with your feet. This is what breeds a competitive environment. Honda, Yamaha, Polaris, Can Am, and textron all competing for your Motorsports dollar is a great thing for us the consumer.

I admit that when I see a X3 XRS RC on the showroom floor I start reaching for the checkbook! With that said, I'm going into my 6th year of owning some type of RZR and other than maintenance and damage, they have been fairly trouble free and have never left me stranded. I agree the quality could be better, but we literally beat the crap out of these machines and it is a miracle they don't break more often.

I grew up on Honda 4 stroke motorcycles and have great respect for the brand. Enjoy and see you on trail.
 

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I recently purchased a 2019 XPT 4. I love the machine, but as all have said, the QC is painful to see. I left the dealership after spending just shy of 30K (with accessories). It is tough to get it home and show the wife how awesome your new machine is and two of the four doors won't shut without slamming... Quick adjustment I know, but it just makes you feel like an idiot.

Quick question do the turbos have the square pucks?
 

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Discussion Starter #35
I recently purchased a 2019 XPT 4. I love the machine, but as all have said, the QC is painful to see. I left the dealership after spending just shy of 30K (with accessories). It is tough to get it home and show the wife how awesome your new machine is and two of the four doors won't shut without slamming... Quick adjustment I know, but it just makes you feel like an idiot.
Quick question do the turbos have the square pucks?
Assume you have an 18 or 19 so the Drive clutch has the stainless sleeves for the towers. There is still a mod to improve them but I’m not sure what’s involved, pucks or rollers maybe. If your dealer didn’t mention it you might ask on the Turbo thread or call Starting Line Performance-they make a kit. A friend of mine was complaining about it after he picked up an 18 Turbo last fall. Same story...Polaris takes years to fix clutch issues.
 

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All I was saying it if you hate RC don’t buy RC. Using it to justify honda make no sense since they don’t have it. Some of the other stuff seems pretty nice. If they wouldn’t of been so late to the market they would of been a contender before I bought my turbo. But at the time the turbo had the heaviest duty drive train for the money plus doesn’t have some of your gripes about the XP1k.


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The OP is using RC to point out that he purchased a product from Polaris that doesn't work worth a shit.....among other things he listed. So, he's jumping the fence in hopes that items that comes with, or that he purchases for the Honda, will work/function properly.

So OP is not comparing Polaris RC to the non existent Honda RC. Simply saying that a Polaris product sucked for him. Parts and accessories and how they function on your machine, is part of the total purchase/investment. You don't buy a car for the motor alone. You buy it for many many other reasons as well.
 

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I recently purchased a 2019 XPT 4. I love the machine, but as all have said, the QC is painful to see. I left the dealership after spending just shy of 30K (with accessories). It is tough to get it home and show the wife how awesome your new machine is and two of the four doors won't shut without slamming... Quick adjustment I know, but it just makes you feel like an idiot.
Quick question do the turbos have the square pucks?
Assume you have an 18 or 19 so the Drive clutch has the stainless sleeves for the towers. There is still a mod to improve them but I’m not sure what’s involved, pucks or rollers maybe. If your dealer didn’t mention it you might ask on the Turbo thread or call Starting Line Performance-they make a kit. A friend of mine was complaining about it after he picked up an 18 Turbo last fall. Same story...Polaris takes years to fix clutch issues.

https://aftermarketassassins.com/products?olsPage=products/2017-xpt-helix-buttons

Stop being such a negative nancy. Polaris added stainless where surfaces and better buttons to the secondary in the newer turbos. Yes buttons are a wear item like AA says in the link above but they dont wear on the clutch because of the stainless insert. Polaris even did an update to most of the older turbos to make them the newer style.
 

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Owned a 2017 xp 1000 and now an 18 xp 1000 high lifter. I will be owning the honda when it hits floors. Ive ridden honda and yamaha my whole life and the quality on polaris machines is hideous compared to other brands. Only reason i purchased another polaris is bc of insurance buying me a new machine. I wont miss my polaris one bit once i sell it..


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I definitely hear this debate. I wouldn’t blame anyone for being upset with Polaris reliability. Although it seems to be hit and miss, not every machine is a dud. Perhaps it’s maintence? Or drive style?

I can tell you this, though - I’m not over here buying BMWs for their reliability. I love those machines for another reason. Same with Polaris, and while I haven’t had any issues yet I did not buy this machine for ultimate reliability. Like stated Honda holds the crown for that one.
 
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