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Ok, so my check engine light has alwasy been on since I have owned my RzR, bout 3 months. The code is and has always been 22, which according to the manual is TPS: short circuit to battery. Well, I got my tester in this weekend and just tested it. I know the reading is suppose to read between .70 and .74(key on, not running) , however my reading (key on, not running) is .68. When I start it and test it, I get .69. I know my battery connections are good (just paid $100 to have someone tell me I had a loose negative cable on the battery) so I am wondering if I have a bad TPS?
 

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.68 shouldnt throw a code. I would recommend tracing and checking the wiring to the tps. I have a picture of the diagram if you do not have a manual handy that I can send you...

Nate
Alba Racing
 

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Thanks Nate, but I have the FSM for all years. Im going to do that and see if maybe it was frayed. I also am going to double check where all the grounds wires bolt at..
 

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I'm assuming this is an 09 machine. If so, the TPS is out of spec. Look in the FSM and you will see what it should be set to. As if that will throw a code I don't know. I set my TPS with the motor running. Reason being that the voltage reading with the engine running is the last reading that the ECM sees before you shut it off. Just some thoughts
 

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Yes, it is the 09 in my signature and I know its out of spec. My question was if it was bad because it is out of spec AND its throwing the code..
 

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Lots of times folks are working on a machine that is not necessarily the one in their siginature. That is the reason I asked. Have you tried adjusting it to get it in spec? If it's bad, do a resistance test and make sure it is smooth from throttle closed to WOT. If it were mine I would adjust it to the correct number and see what happens. It's not that far off and I think it just needs adjusted a little. Does it idle in spec?
 

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It idles in spec after you blip the throttle once when it is first started. After it has ran, you can start it and it will idle at around 1050 which according to the manual is at the low end of specifications.
 
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Did you buy it used? Probably just needs to be adjusted..there touchy as heck..check, set tighten..recheck until you get it lol. I don't know about the light but in my experience it doesnt take it being off much to cause an issue..ie could be why you have to blip and the idle being low...
 

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I'll bet if you adjusted the TPS to spec, the idle would be in spec also. It's not that far off, both idle and TPS voltage. I'm not sure where it would throw a code like mentioned. Heck, take a chance adjust the TPS to spec and see what happens. You can always adjust it back. Someone my have fooled with it before you got it. Let us know your findings. Sometimes you have to adjust the idle screw and the tps to get everything back to where it should be.
 

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Wow, as much as I have seen everyone talk about how hard it is to adjust these, it was super easy. So, now I read (key on, not running).73 and running .74. However, the check engine light is still on. Also, from what I can tell, the wires arent frayed from the plug to the bottom harness where they turn and run to the ecu. I didnt check past that yet. However, the purple (signal?) wire looks to have a splice in it and a wire running to the Tmap sensor. Could that be the issue? Maybe it isnt holding anymore? Guess I could wiggle it and see. I disconnected the battery to see if it will clear the code now that I adjusted the TPS. It idles with ease as well now at around 1125 ish....
 

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The code will most likely clear. It's not that difficult, just patience and a basic understanding of how it works. Disconnect the battery and let it set for 30 minutes or so. That may clear the code. Some times just cycling it, as in just driving it will clear the code. Let us know if the codes clear, you get a differnt code or they just stay clear. Go take a ride!!!
 

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Well, so far the code cleared and it runs good. It will be awhile before I take it for a ride. When I do, I will update this thread. Thanks for the help N0OSV....
 
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