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17 XP4 was lower geared than the 18 XP4, yes.

Gear reduction didn't help me.
Removing the blowhole didn't help me.
No clutch kit has helped me.
Venting the clutch cover didn't help me.
A primary clutch fan didn't help me.
Never pulled the trigger on Airdam, but I don't see it helping me either, especially after reading this post, and another member's recent experience as well.
I have no overtravel or alignment issues.

I have zero belt temp issues until I hit WOT, then the belt temp goes up about as fast as the speedometer (slight exaggeration). It will stay below 180 damn near anywhere or in any condition, and it cools down fast too with the blowhole and vented cover, but I just have an anomaly of a machine that nothing has solved the problem on. Hope you don't have one too. I've probably beat the topic to death across 10 other threads, but, let me know if you find something that actually works!

What did the gear reduction do for you? What change did you notice? What was the final reduction, 22% one?

Asking because I'm considering doing one.
I have a 2018 xp4 turbo with dynamix. I have the blowhole with a rzr back gauge. I bought a new CVT intake tube just to do a comparison due to extreme belt temp problems like yourself. Found the blowhole had minimal affect on temps. While over 6500 I didn't see a HUGE difference, maybe 5 degrees hotter with it in, but when I slowed down with it in, the temps drop way faster than not having it.
I also did BMP's cyclone primary fin cover, and didn't notice a big difference to justify the price tag.
no overtravel or alignment issues either, I have checked
I had AA's clutch kit with high load helix, shit was a waste, belt temps do better with the stock clutch kit and stock helix. I spent a weekend trying all different weight combo's, taking out AA's helix to swap with stock.
Found that the dam stock clutch setup did better than the aftermarket kit. (again I have the shity 18 with high gearing, this could be why the kit sucks for me)
I will punch it and watch the temps climb over 230 as I hit 65mph+,flat ground, no elevation change.

your not the only one with anomaly of a machine, lol

but back to my question, I'm very curious what gear reduction did change or do. Thanks!



I have a question......
I have an ‘18 fox edition.....
On my digital screen when I select the temperature display via the menu button while driving during an aggressive high speed ride my temp read out is at like 215ish.....is that engine temp or belt temp?
If it’s engine temp, is that too high?
 

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Aspiring Perfectionist
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That’s engine temp, 215 is ok.... if you see 220-225 you should start backing it down


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If you are having issues at the higher RPMs you may want to check out our MoFlow. It is an additional exhaust that we developed based on feedback that the racers we work with were having CVT heat issues at high RPM's for an extended amount of time. Here is the link to the MoFlow on our store. http://desertcraft-us.3dcartstores.com/XPT-MOFLOW-CVT-Exhaust_p_97.html

Let us know if there is anything that we can assist you with
 

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craigstumph
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Just slow down when your belt gets too hot and let it cool. Find out how hot your belt is by using a belt temp gauge. Here are some to look at.

 

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@Bebert @socalbighead did you guys ever make any headway or find the magic cure?
I just did the AA snap ring delete kit, my snap ring failed on me again, so I had enough of it and replaced it. Secondary opened up so much it rubbed on the clutch cover :oops:
Definitely had some over travel issues

I also did the Hunterworks primary washer/spacer in addition to the factory black one (speed limiting spacer)

I will update when I get a chance to run it and see what the belt gauge says !
 

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Aspiring Perfectionist
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I just did the AA snap ring delete kit, my snap ring failed on me again, so I had enough of it and replaced it. Secondary opened up so much it rubbed on the clutch cover :oops:
Definitely had some over travel issues

I also did the Hunterworks primary washer/spacer in addition to the factory black one (speed limiting spacer)

I will update when I get a chance to run it and see what the belt gauge says !
I just ditched the sanp ring delete kit for the 19+ OEM hardware not too long ago lol, I never felt that snap ring delete kit put mine exactly where it needed to be and was somewhat inconsistent, the 19+ hardware costs about $9, and it sets the tension ans position perfect too, and it is simply a longer bolt with a machined spacer and the same inner thrust washer. Just tore into a buddy's RZR today and his snap ring had failed and his secondary was rubbing the cover as well, and the inner hub of his secondary was polished shiny from the over travel, very surprised he hadn't blown a belt yet, he has the 19+ hardware on the way.

I know those aren't my issues, but they are definitely problems that would cause very excessive belt heat!

Do update please, If you have the same problem as me, that washer probably won't do much to keep the temps down, but I'd be so incredibly happy to hear that it did I wouldn't be able to contain myself lol.
 

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I just ditched the sanp ring delete kit for the 19+ OEM hardware not too long ago lol, I never felt that snap ring delete kit put mine exactly where it needed to be and was somewhat inconsistent, the 19+ hardware costs about $9, and it sets the tension ans position perfect too, and it is simply a longer bolt with a machined spacer and the same inner thrust washer. Just tore into a buddy's RZR today and his snap ring had failed and his secondary was rubbing the cover as well, and the inner hub of his secondary was polished shiny from the over travel, very surprised he hadn't blown a belt yet, he has the 19+ hardware on the way.

I know those aren't my issues, but they are definitely problems that would cause very excessive belt heat!

Do update please, If you have the same problem as me, that washer probably won't do much to keep the temps down, but I'd be so incredibly happy to hear that it did I wouldn't be able to contain myself lol.
Well no worries, belt temps still suck. Got on it, hitting around 55-60 mph and belt goes to 220 with ease if I keep on the throttle.
Maybe the spacer will help with overtravel, but nay nay on belt temps. So ?‍♂
 

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Well no worries, belt temps still suck. Got on it, hitting around 55-60 mph and belt goes to 220 with ease if I keep on the throttle.
Maybe the spacer will help with overtravel, but nay nay on belt temps. So ?‍♂
Damn it man! We really gotta figure this crap out....I think me, you, and @Bebert all have the same problem, and all with 2018 XPT4's oddly enough....I'm going to be messing with it some more in the coming weeks, I don't have high hopes, but I'll sure let you know If i find anything, we're the oddballs in this whole problem, which makes it hard to talk to any clutch experts or anything because all just agree that it's a problem we "shouldn't" be having, but I've sourced to the depths of the inerwebs and asked at least 5 different clutch "experts" about it, and after going through the same long, drawn out conversation with all of them, it's always the same conclusion....they just don't know, or they say we've overlooked something, or are doing it wrong....I've been through everything in my clutches so many times I can't even keep track...you'd think I would've just gotten lucky by this point..but no...same old problem every time, and pretty much nothing in the clutches changes it to any noteworthy degree...which really keeps pointing that the problem is elsewhere....but I don't know where else it could be!
 

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Add one more 2018 XPT4 to the list, mine. I haven’t spent as much time trying to fix it yet, but watching the belt temp hit 240-250 easily in the sand was frustrating. I added the belt temp gauge same time I went to 32“ dirt tires so no clue what temps were on stock bighorns. I run the turbo 4S clutch parts (springs/weights/helix) for the 32’s and it will creep right past 220 no problem. Also running the AA snap-ring eliminator kit and a ZRP primary cover (just in case, stock bushing was fine). My sand setup was 28” paddles on stock clutch. Have about 700 miles so far, most of those on the original stock belt (now on a hunterworks), have not broken one yet even with a week at the Oregon dunes fighting high temps the entire time. My buddy did blow a belt on his stock (other than paddles) 2018 XPT4 same dune trip, but doesn’t run a belt temp gauge so no idea how hot his was getting. Maybe ignorance is bliss...

In my mind it feels like airflow, shifting to low and running it hard would bring the temps right back down in the sand but that becomes a pain with the limiter and trying to keep up.

Next step is opening up the exhaust port on the inner clutch case to try and get more air out I guess?
 

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I just ditched the sanp ring delete kit for the 19+ OEM hardware not too long ago lol, I never felt that snap ring delete kit put mine exactly where it needed to be and was somewhat inconsistent, the 19+ hardware costs about $9, and it sets the tension ans position perfect too, and it is simply a longer bolt with a machined spacer and the same inner thrust washer. Just tore into a buddy's RZR today and his snap ring had failed and his secondary was rubbing the cover as well, and the inner hub of his secondary was polished shiny from the over travel, very surprised he hadn't blown a belt yet, he has the 19+ hardware on the way.

I know those aren't my issues, but they are definitely problems that would cause very excessive belt heat!

Do update please, If you have the same problem as me, that washer probably won't do much to keep the temps down, but I'd be so incredibly happy to hear that it did I wouldn't be able to contain myself lol.
Do you have the part numbers for the 19 parts? Is it just everything that goes on the shaft after the secondary?
 

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Do you have the part numbers for the 19 parts? Is it just everything that goes on the shaft after the secondary?
Essentially, yes. But the inner silver washer is common between the two

PN# 7557154 & PN# 7519286 is what you need for the secondary bolt & washer. They’re both under $4 each, 16 & 17 on the parts diagram at Rocky Mountain ATV

643254
 

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Add one more 2018 XPT4 to the list, mine. I haven’t spent as much time trying to fix it yet, but watching the belt temp hit 240-250 easily in the sand was frustrating. I added the belt temp gauge same time I went to 32“ dirt tires so no clue what temps were on stock bighorns. I run the turbo 4S clutch parts (springs/weights/helix) for the 32’s and it will creep right past 220 no problem. Also running the AA snap-ring eliminator kit and a ZRP primary cover (just in case, stock bushing was fine). My sand setup was 28” paddles on stock clutch. Have about 700 miles so far, most of those on the original stock belt (now on a hunterworks), have not broken one yet even with a week at the Oregon dunes fighting high temps the entire time. My buddy did blow a belt on his stock (other than paddles) 2018 XPT4 same dune trip, but doesn’t run a belt temp gauge so no idea how hot his was getting. Maybe ignorance is bliss...

In my mind it feels like airflow, shifting to low and running it hard would bring the temps right back down in the sand but that becomes a pain with the limiter and trying to keep up.

Next step is opening up the exhaust port on the inner clutch case to try and get more air out I guess?
Obviously airflow always helps, but I feel it’s just a band aid to this problem. Clutches generate heat obviously, but we’re generating abnormal excessive heat from somewhere and need to figure out where it’s coming from, or why

I ran a vented clutch cover for a while, and an blower, and a primary clutch fan, all together and each individually by itself... all help to a small extent, but since the root cause is still excessive, it’s just not an actual fix. I ran with the clutch cover off too to experiment, it does keep the temps down, but only because it can dissipate heat almost instantly, if you watch the belt temps with the cover off, you’ll still see them creep up way higher & faster than they should be with no cover on ( I saw 180 with the cover off after about a 2 minute run, that shouldn’t happen ). It sucks that you guys all have the problem too, but I’m glad to find people to actually discuss it with that understand what’s goin on.... hopefully we can figure this crap out.

643255
 

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Awesome, thanks man!

Essentially, yes. But the inner silver washer is common between the two

PN# 7557154 & PN# 7519286 is what you need for the secondary bolt & washer. They’re both under $4 each, 16 & 17 on the parts diagram at Rocky Mountain ATV

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So i ordered this kit. Got everything from my local dealer for 225 after tax. They offer a 20% discount on all OEM parts
Man i sure hope this is the answer to the high belt temps on my 18 turbo 4
Needed a new belt, so even if i dont see better belts temps, it will still be kinda worth it..haha

Has anyone tried the kit yet with any luck? better temps on their guage?

Thanks
 

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Aspiring Perfectionist
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So i ordered this kit. Got everything from my local dealer for 225 after tax. They offer a 20% discount on all OEM parts
Man i sure hope this is the answer to the high belt temps on my 18 turbo 4
Needed a new belt, so even if i dont see better belts temps, it will still be kinda worth it..haha

Has anyone tried the kit yet with any luck? better temps on their guage?

Thanks

It’s not been awesome as far a fitment and sealing so far....talked to some guys on Facebook who toasted clutches because it didn’t seal and let water in... jury is still out if it actually helps with cooling at all lol
 

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This might be a stretch, but has anyone checked the run out on the crank shaft, and transmissin input shaft when the clutches are off with a Dial Indicator Gauge? The amount of money spent on clutch parts with no result has me thinking the problem isn't in the clutches themselves. The heat spikes described in this thread can only happen with a lot of additional friction/mis-alignment. After so much clutch work, it may be worth looking beyond the clutches if only to check off another box.

I have a 2016 Turbo 4, so RZR problems are my forte! Hence, my screen name. Polaris did step up and revise the 2016 clutch with the slider inserts that they stole the design from 3P, but it works so I can't fault them. I also run an AA Clutch kit with AA performance helix, Blaster II with MoFlow set up on an Alba temp gauge that has a built in thermostat that I have set at 140 degrees. I'm going to jinx it here, but.....I have never broken a belt with this set up, ever. I do put on a new belt at the beginning of each dune season, but belt heat and breakage is never a concern of mine.
 

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Aspiring Perfectionist
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This might be a stretch, but has anyone checked the run out on the crank shaft, and transmissin input shaft when the clutches are off with a Dial Indicator Gauge? The amount of money spent on clutch parts with no result has me thinking the problem isn't in the clutches themselves. The heat spikes described in this thread can only happen with a lot of additional friction/mis-alignment. After so much clutch work, it may be worth looking beyond the clutches if only to check off another box.

I have a 2016 Turbo 4, so RZR problems are my forte! Hence, my screen name. Polaris did step up and revise the 2016 clutch with the slider inserts that they stole the design from 3P, but it works so I can't fault them. I also run an AA Clutch kit with AA performance helix, Blaster II with MoFlow set up on an Alba temp gauge that has a built in thermostat that I have set at 140 degrees. I'm going to jinx it here, but.....I have never broken a belt with this set up, ever. I do put on a new belt at the beginning of each dune season, but belt heat and breakage is never a concern of mine.
I indeed have checked runout, both shafts are true as can be. I’ve looked at everything possible at this point, engine and trans mount, numerous alignments, countless clutching setups, new clutches, different belts, fans, vents, etc to the moon... nothing fixes the WOT issue, I’ve pretty much just learned to live with it at this point, but it is getting close to clutch maintenance time again... so I might beat my head against the wall over it some more in the near future.

Keep in mind that 140 you’re seeing is air temp, not actual belt temp. We’re all running infrared gauges that actually read the temp of the belt itself, and from my experience, that 140 you’re getting, equates to about 200 on the belt, which is still very acceptable, but not as big of a difference as it may seem.
 

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I indeed have checked runout, both shafts are true as can be. I’ve looked at everything possible at this point, engine and trans mount, numerous alignments, countless clutching setups, new clutches, different belts, fans, vents, etc to the moon... nothing fixes the WOT issue, I’ve pretty much just learned to live with it at this point, but it is getting close to clutch maintenance time again... so I might beat my head against the wall over it some more in the near future.

Keep in mind that 140 you’re seeing is air temp, not actual belt temp. We’re all running infrared gauges that actually read the temp of the belt itself, and from my experience, that 140 you’re getting, equates to about 200 on the belt, which is still very acceptable, but not as big of a difference as it may seem.
You've piqued my curiosity....have you measured primary center bolt to secondary center bolt, and compared that measurement to one of your buddies that has no belt issues? I'm trying to think of everything outside of the clutches. Is there any end play on your crank shaft or transmission input shaft? I believe you already said that you checked the allignment of the clutches, but perhaps there is movement when in operation. Any video of the clutches in operation? There's enough know how on this forum, somebody's gotta have the silver bullet!

I know the Alba temp gauge reads the air temp, but I really like that it has the built in thermostat to operate the fan. It's just a cleaner set up to me, albeit I know the infrared reads the actual belt temp. I can always adjust the thermostat to come on at a lower temp if I like, but Alba sets it at 140, and I've not had any issues, so I have no reason to change it up.
 

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You've piqued my curiosity....have you measured primary center bolt to secondary center bolt, and compared that measurement to one of your buddies that has no belt issues? I'm trying to think of everything outside of the clutches. Is there any end play on your crank shaft or transmission input shaft? I believe you already said that you checked the allignment of the clutches, but perhaps there is movement when in operation. Any video of the clutches in operation? There's enough know how on this forum, somebody's gotta have the silver bullet!

I know the Alba temp gauge reads the air temp, but I really like that it has the built in thermostat to operate the fan. It's just a cleaner set up to me, albeit I know the infrared reads the actual belt temp. I can always adjust the thermostat to come on at a lower temp if I like, but Alba sets it at 140, and I've not had any issues, so I have no reason to change it up.
I have done extensive measuring and comparing lol, there is absolutely no difference between my machine and my buddies identical machine, have checked an verified with an alignment tool at least a dozen times, verified the inner cover isn’t warped, changed the engine and trans mounts, I have taken video, there’s no movement of the engine or trans under accelerating or from the terrain.

I’ve talked this over and sent video and pictures and countless other comparisons to 4 different clutch “expert” companies, and dozens of people on the forum, posted about it numerous times, everyone goes down the exact same path, and winds up on the exact same conclusion, that conclusion being they have no damn idea what could be wrong.
 
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