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I know this is a never-ending discussion, but I’m going to ask for more input from those that have experience. Quick background - I have an ‘18 XP 4 Turbo with a stock engine running 32” tires with bead locks and 30” paddles at the dunes. I was experiencing very high belt temps at the dunes (240+) so I spent the money for a full AirDam setup. Very unfortunately, I have definitely not had the positive experience that most have with their AirDam clutches. With Adam’s suggestion, I have tried several weight combinations and springs. I even sent my primary and secondary back to Adam so I was without my machine for 6 weeks. Adam is very busy so I will give him a break, but things are not progressing like I hoped they would. I am still experiencing very high belt temps (210+) after a 1/4 mile wide open run on the pavement. I ran it without the cover on and temps are much cooler. I am currently using a Blow Hole, but I’m wondering if adding a CVT Blaster II would make enough difference to justify the cost. I don’t but the 40+ drop in belt temps which they claim on their website, but I would be willing to give it a try if others have had good results with it. I appreciate any advice and experience you have to share!
 

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I know this is a never-ending discussion, but I’m going to ask for more input from those that have experience. Quick background - I have an ‘18 XP 4 Turbo with a stock engine running 32” tires with bead locks and 30” paddles at the dunes. I was experiencing very high belt temps at the dunes (240+) so I spent the money for a full AirDam setup. Very unfortunately, I have definitely not had the positive experience that most have with their AirDam clutches. With Adam’s suggestion, I have tried several weight combinations and springs. I even sent my primary and secondary back to Adam so I was without my machine for 6 weeks. Adam is very busy so I will give him a break, but things are not progressing like I hoped they would. I am still experiencing very high belt temps (210+) after a 1/4 mile wide open run on the pavement. I ran it without the cover on and temps are much cooler. I am currently using a Blow Hole, but I’m wondering if adding a CVT Blaster II would make enough difference to justify the cost. I don’t but the 40+ drop in belt temps which they claim on their website, but I would be willing to give it a try if others have had good results with it. I appreciate any advice and experience you have to share!
I run the same setup with Adam’s clutch. 32 on dirt, 30 in dunes. First I’d get rid of the blow hole it is hurting you in wide open situations such as dunes and desert riding. Now if you’re a trail guy spending a lot of time under like 6500 rpm the blow hole works. Adams clutch in particular pulls and moves much more air than stock, so you’re definitely suffocating it causing higher temps.

In open desert with 32” I run cover on, have cvt blaster and the mo flow exhaust. I never see belt temps over 200 unless outside air is really hot, like 90+.

In dunes I tend to run no cvt cover. My belt temps are always below 200 as well without the cover. With cover, I’ve seen my temp get up to 218. That’s running hard in the middle of the dunes on a long ride. Before Adam that simply wasn’t possible as I’d be over 230 almost instantly and 240+ was easy to hit after 5 mins of dunes and that’s when belts tend to break. So with Adam I’m no longer in those extreme heat ranges. Can it still get hot sure but a lot of that has to do with type of riding, cvt cover on or off, outside air temp, and finally tire weight. They heavier your tire weight combo is the more stress it puts on the drivetrain, thus higher belt temps.
 

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I would definitely blame the big tires. What tire and wheel combo are you running?
 

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Dstew if your profile is correct you have a 2017 XP 4 Turbo and OP has the 2018 XP 4 Turbo, I believe you two have different gear ratio's stock with the advantage for bigger tires/wheels going to you with your lower gearing. I have 0 experience here just going off of forum armchair quarterbacking. That and the blowhole restriction at wide open could be the difference between your temps and OP, add into that if his wheel tire combo is significantly heavier. Just some ideas
 

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I know this is a never-ending discussion, but I’m going to ask for more input from those that have experience. Quick background - I have an ‘18 XP 4 Turbo with a stock engine running 32” tires with bead locks and 30” paddles at the dunes. I was experiencing very high belt temps at the dunes (240+) so I spent the money for a full AirDam setup. Very unfortunately, I have definitely not had the positive experience that most have with their AirDam clutches. With Adam’s suggestion, I have tried several weight combinations and springs. I even sent my primary and secondary back to Adam so I was without my machine for 6 weeks. Adam is very busy so I will give him a break, but things are not progressing like I hoped they would. I am still experiencing very high belt temps (210+) after a 1/4 mile wide open run on the pavement. I ran it without the cover on and temps are much cooler. I am currently using a Blow Hole, but I’m wondering if adding a CVT Blaster II would make enough difference to justify the cost. I don’t but the 40+ drop in belt temps which they claim on their website, but I would be willing to give it a try if others have had good results with it. I appreciate any advice and experience you have to share!
Have you checked belt overtravel?


 

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Dstew if your profile is correct you have a 2017 XP 4 Turbo and OP has the 2018 XP 4 Turbo, I believe you two have different gear ratio's stock with the advantage for bigger tires/wheels going to you with your lower gearing. I have 0 experience here just going off of forum armchair quarterbacking. That and the blowhole restriction at wide open could be the difference between your temps and OP, add into that if his wheel tire combo is significantly heavier. Just some ideas
I do have a 17. I thought the 18 had the same gearing as a 17, I could be wrong though. If you're correct and it has even higher gearing than the 17, then yes that would aid in higher belt temps as well. In which case, the ultimate fix would be to regear the rear diff. Something I've been wanting to do myself so I can run 32" paddles safely.

Regardless, I still think the blowhole is hurting his temps. The airdam setup moves some serious air with larger fins on both the primary and secondary than the OEM clutch has.

I'm also willing to bet his tires are pretty heavy, which with higher gearing is a recipe for disaster. Airdam while the best in the business, can still only compensate so much.
 

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17 XP4 was lower geared than the 18 XP4, yes.

Gear reduction didn't help me.
Removing the blowhole didn't help me.
No clutch kit has helped me.
Venting the clutch cover didn't help me.
A primary clutch fan didn't help me.
Never pulled the trigger on Airdam, but I don't see it helping me either, especially after reading this post, and another member's recent experience as well.
I have no overtravel or alignment issues.

I have zero belt temp issues until I hit WOT, then the belt temp goes up about as fast as the speedometer (slight exaggeration). It will stay below 180 damn near anywhere or in any condition, and it cools down fast too with the blowhole and vented cover, but I just have an anomaly of a machine that nothing has solved the problem on. Hope you don't have one too. I've probably beat the topic to death across 10 other threads, but, let me know if you find something that actually works!
 

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That sounds like classic overtravel, have you done the test on the road then and not in the air like my video?
It does indeed sound like "classic" overtravel....and I've done the test everytime I've had my secondary off which is at least 30 times, on the road, in the garage, anywhere it's been driven, and I still mark it every time. I've also replaced the secondary clutch, since I thought maybe it was just screwed up from the factory, no change. This is how the marks look, nothing has touched the radius, or the center hub by what I see. Do you see it differently?





 

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Could be way off base here but if you've ruled out clutches, have you tried someones working clutch setup on yours and yours on theirs? Possibly heat transfer from out of true engine output or xmsn input? not sure if there's bearings there (engine output, xmsn input) either that could be worn?
 

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Could be way off base here but if you've ruled out clutches, have you tried someones working clutch setup on yours and yours on theirs? Possibly heat transfer from out of true engine output or xmsn input? not sure if there's bearings there (engine output, xmsn input) either that could be worn?
I wouldn't dare ask me friends to let me try their clutches on my cursed machine lol, but I have replaced the secondary, and completely rebuilt the primary, so I've basically had two different clutches throughout the process. I don't think what your saying is impossible, but unlikely, I would see that sort of issues generating other issues as well, like overheating,or burnt gear lube, which i haven't seen any signs of at all.
 

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I have a 17 XP Turbo with 32" tires and 32" sand tires. I first installed the Blowhole and loved it. What I really liked about it was have fast the belt would cool down when at a stop. I did find out at higher speeds around 35 mph and up the Blowhole did not work as well as I was hoping. I then installed the Blaster ll. I have the blaster ll on an on off switch. Having both on I can push my ride hard and keep the belt temp in a safe zone. I don't let the belt get over 210. The nice part with both fans going when I stop I can get the belt temp to drop quickly. If I had to choose one it would be the Blaster ll. I really do like having both because of the high volume of air going through the clutch. My clutch stays so much cleaner now.
The last thing is in my opinion you have to have a belt temp gauge. I feel the Razorback is the best on the market.
 

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I have a 17 XP Turbo with 32" tires and 32" sand tires. I first installed the Blowhole and loved it. What I really liked about it was have fast the belt would cool down when at a stop. I did find out at higher speeds around 35 mph and up the Blowhole did not work as well as I was hoping. I then installed the Blaster ll. I have the blaster ll on an on off switch. Having both on I can push my ride hard and keep the belt temp in a safe zone. I don't let the belt get over 210. The nice part with both fans going when I stop I can get the belt temp to drop quickly. If I had to choose one it would be the Blaster ll. I really do like having both because of the high volume of air going through the clutch. My clutch stays so much cleaner now.
The last thing is in my opinion you have to have a belt temp gauge. I feel the Razorback is the best on the market.
Your belt never gets hot because that car never leaves the garage. There is no way a car that clean ever leaves the pavement. :grin
Very nice, very clean. I wish I had that kind of time.
 

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I have a 17 XP Turbo with 32" tires and 32" sand tires. I first installed the Blowhole and loved it. What I really liked about it was have fast the belt would cool down when at a stop. I did find out at higher speeds around 35 mph and up the Blowhole did not work as well as I was hoping. I then installed the Blaster ll. I have the blaster ll on an on off switch. Having both on I can push my ride hard and keep the belt temp in a safe zone. I don't let the belt get over 210. The nice part with both fans going when I stop I can get the belt temp to drop quickly. If I had to choose one it would be the Blaster ll. I really do like having both because of the high volume of air going through the clutch. My clutch stays so much cleaner now.
The last thing is in my opinion you have to have a belt temp gauge. I feel the Razorback is the best on the market.
Your belt never gets hot because that car never leaves the garage. There is no way a car that clean ever leaves the pavement. :grin
Very nice, very clean. I wish I had that kind of time.
This ride has 1750 miles. To be honest I am not one to look for mud puddles but a few time you could not tell what color the Polaris was from how dirty it was. I do a full detail after every really dirty ride to check over every thing.
 

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17 XP4 was lower geared than the 18 XP4, yes.

Gear reduction didn't help me.
Removing the blowhole didn't help me.
No clutch kit has helped me.
Venting the clutch cover didn't help me.
A primary clutch fan didn't help me.
Never pulled the trigger on Airdam, but I don't see it helping me either, especially after reading this post, and another member's recent experience as well.
I have no overtravel or alignment issues.

I have zero belt temp issues until I hit WOT, then the belt temp goes up about as fast as the speedometer (slight exaggeration). It will stay below 180 damn near anywhere or in any condition, and it cools down fast too with the blowhole and vented cover, but I just have an anomaly of a machine that nothing has solved the problem on. Hope you don't have one too. I've probably beat the topic to death across 10 other threads, but, let me know if you find something that actually works!

What did the gear reduction do for you? What change did you notice? What was the final reduction, 22% one?

Asking because I'm considering doing one.
I have a 2018 xp4 turbo with dynamix. I have the blowhole with a rzr back gauge. I bought a new CVT intake tube just to do a comparison due to extreme belt temp problems like yourself. Found the blowhole had minimal affect on temps. While over 6500 I didn't see a HUGE difference, maybe 5 degrees hotter with it in, but when I slowed down with it in, the temps drop way faster than not having it.
I also did BMP's cyclone primary fin cover, and didn't notice a big difference to justify the price tag.
no overtravel or alignment issues either, I have checked
I had AA's clutch kit with high load helix, shit was a waste, belt temps do better with the stock clutch kit and stock helix. I spent a weekend trying all different weight combo's, taking out AA's helix to swap with stock.
Found that the dam stock clutch setup did better than the aftermarket kit. (again I have the shity 18 with high gearing, this could be why the kit sucks for me)
I will punch it and watch the temps climb over 230 as I hit 65mph+,flat ground, no elevation change.

your not the only one with anomaly of a machine, lol

but back to my question, I'm very curious what gear reduction did change or do. Thanks!
 

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17 XP4 was lower geared than the 18 XP4, yes.

Gear reduction didn't help me.
Removing the blowhole didn't help me.
No clutch kit has helped me.
Venting the clutch cover didn't help me.
A primary clutch fan didn't help me.
Never pulled the trigger on Airdam, but I don't see it helping me either, especially after reading this post, and another member's recent experience as well.
I have no overtravel or alignment issues.

I have zero belt temp issues until I hit WOT, then the belt temp goes up about as fast as the speedometer (slight exaggeration). It will stay below 180 damn near anywhere or in any condition, and it cools down fast too with the blowhole and vented cover, but I just have an anomaly of a machine that nothing has solved the problem on. Hope you don't have one too. I've probably beat the topic to death across 10 other threads, but, let me know if you find something that actually works!

What did the gear reduction do for you? What change did you notice? What was the final reduction, 22% one?

Asking because I'm considering doing one.
I have a 2018 xp4 turbo with dynamix. I have the blowhole with a rzr back gauge. I bought a new CVT intake tube just to do a comparison due to extreme belt temp problems like yourself. Found the blowhole had minimal affect on temps. While over 6500 I didn't see a HUGE difference, maybe 5 degrees hotter with it in, but when I slowed down with it in, the temps drop way faster than not having it.
I also did BMP's cyclone primary fin cover, and didn't notice a big difference to justify the price tag.
no overtravel or alignment issues either, I have checked
I had AA's clutch kit with high load helix, shit was a waste, belt temps do better with the stock clutch kit and stock helix. I spent a weekend trying all different weight combo's, taking out AA's helix to swap with stock.
Found that the dam stock clutch setup did better than the aftermarket kit. (again I have the shity 18 with high gearing, this could be why the kit sucks for me)
I will punch it and watch the temps climb over 230 as I hit 65mph+,flat ground, no elevation change.

your not the only one with anomaly of a machine, lol

but back to my question, I'm very curious what gear reduction did change or do. Thanks!
I did 53% low gear and 12% H, so in high with 32's I'm about 3% lower than stock with 29's. Low gear is amazing for the rocks I do, and the high gear reduction was just meant to offset the larger tires without sacrificing a ton of top end speed or making RPM higher at cruising speeds, and make the machine behave like stock in high range.

It's been a while since i looked into it, but if i remember right, It's hard to do more reduction in H without using the optimum 10% gears, and they're expensive, straight cut, and noisy. The ace 325 gearset will net you the 12% reduction across all gears by itself, quite a few good threads I've been a part of floating around on it, my build thread, Joe's "Ultimate crawler transmission", and my "gear reduction master sheet". But ultimately, it wasn't the cure for my belt temp at WOT like you're experiencing as well.

I've also recently found out that Airdam's typical setup puts the engagement RPM way high, around 2800, and that's not something I can live with. Adam apparently has a softer spring for lower engagement, but he says it doesn't do much to help the belt, and after the OP's report in this thread, I'm no longer sold on the Airdam setup overall either. So, i'm still at the drawing board to figure it all out. I've been though at least 15, probably more, spring and weight combinations through it all, haven't seen dramatically different results with anything. Been in contact with multiple sources from several clutch guys about it throughout the process....no one has the answer, most just say that i SHOULDN'T have the problems i do, everyone just likes to think it's overtravel, and as you can see from my post above, it's not....yet here I am, and apparently you are too! I'm continuing to look into the scenario, and I'll keep you posted if I find anything.
 

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I'm glad to see I'm not the only one having problem with the belt temps im on my 8 belt on my 2017 xpt4
 
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