I had seen a few posts of toolbox installs on the back of RZR's. Some had the Dewalt DS300 or 400. They also had to modify the box by grinding down the sides to make it fit in the small wedge space Polaris gave us.
So I had went to Home Depot to try another toolbox after learning about the Dewalt, and wanted to try the Rigid toolbox to see if it would fit without modification. Well that went south after bringing it home. But i liked the box and the stacking options it had. Along with the weather seal it on the lid. Not fond of the orange color, but it was a small sacrifice.
So i had come up with this idea. Adding rubber bumpers as feet. Anyone with a toy hauler has these on their gate. bought them of of Amazon for $18. The Rigid lower box was $39 and the top box was $29.
. View attachment 455745
. View attachment 455753
This is my bottom box.
it is slight wider that 21.5"
. Top box
this is what i used for the top box.
. rubber feet
this is what i used for the feet. just like a toy hauler tailgate bumper
.
what i like about these is that all the latches are lockable with a padlock. i dont think the Dewalt i had seen are.
they don't feel flimsy, and seals well against the weather. locking the bottom to the top is easy and simple. the top box does not have a center handle like the lower box, but they do have 2 side handle that double as handles and can be used to stack and lock another box on top.
drilling into it was real easy. the plastic feels soft and not brittle.
after adding the rubber feet, the box clears the sidewall of the bed nicely and feels sturdy.
the top of the tool boxes are even with the rear roll bar and does not obstruct any rear view.
cant say about the Yeti as i do not have one. but i can open the box with my cooler in place. its alittle tight but the latches do not need much room to unlatch.
BUT i have a top box. so when i need to get to it, i have to remove the the top. and its still easy to do with the cooler in place.
Ok thanks. Can you post a pic on the quick release handle (taken apart) that goes in the lock and ride hole. I have a highlifter and would need to take the whole box out to open the ridgid box lid. I Need to see if I can do that easily or if I would have to take the fitting out of the lock and ride hole.
Here is what the ridgid box looks like in a highlifter. I can open it around 1/2 way. The left snorkel hits the lid first.
Ok thanks. Can you post a pic on the quick release handle (taken apart) that goes in the lock and ride hole. I have a highlifter and would need to take the whole box out to open the ridgid box lid. I Need to see if I can do that easily or if I would have to take the fitting out of the lock and ride hole.
I'm trying this setup with my yeti 35. If you go with the rubber bumpers the lid hits the top box and really limits your ability to open the cooler. I've played with some spacers between the rubber bumpers and the bottom of the box. If you take the handle off the top box and get the height just right you can get the cooler lid open about 6 in before you hit the box. Should be enough to get out anything in there .
This looks like an awesome idea plus the ISOTA mounts make it very practical. My only question is how much space does that leave you between the Rigid box and the back of the RZR box? How big of a cooler can you fit back there?
Love this setup Wish it would fit the large rigid box. I took the wheels off and have it mounted on rubber mats, then I use the small box on top. But it opens from side latches that are right where the bracket bolts on.
I ordered mine last Friday, said it was going to be delivered on the 6th. I have the tool box and the rubber feet already, just waiting on the brackets. I’m excited to get them to free up some space in the bed. Will give my review on them maybe next week!
I liked the Rigid toolbox as well, I thought I would be able to shave off the outside to make it fit down in the bed as well, but my original plan was to drill thru the bottom to use the lock and ride holes to secure it. When I realized the holes were outside of the toolbox I had to go to plan B. I went with a piece if plywood that I cut to fit. Actually in the end, I went with a couple of pieces glued together to make it thick enough, I wanted to avoid adding to much weight. I had to give up the hand tightening for nuts as well I could not get my hand down there. I have to use a socket and extender to get down and undo it to remove the toolbox but it is nice and clean install.
Got to have one, I got a $50 Home Depot card for Christmas, just ordered the feet ( found them for $12 on ebay ). I will be calling for brackets very soon. Thanks a bunch, I have been needing something like this for a while. I never brake down but I am always having to help everybody else on the trail.
I was very hesitant to do it because it was a little expensive and had to buy parts from a few different places. But I did it and WOW! I love how much space this saves. Plus I fit all the same tools from my big bulky polaris box into this Rigid Box. I can now actually fit a cooler and an extra fuel tank as well.
@Txjole: I like the blackout look. Do you mind providing a little more insight? I guess the large Rigid logo section is a sticker that can be easily removed? What about the locking hinges and top handle?
I don't have this yet, but if this look can be easily replicated, I may go this route!
@Txjole: I like the blackout look. Do you mind providing a little more insight? I guess the large Rigid logo section is a sticker that can be easily removed? What about the locking hinges and top handle?
I don't have this yet, but if this look can be easily replicated, I may go this route!
a) He removed the orange tabs from the locking hinges
b) Wrapped the top handle with black paracord or similar material
c) Painted the large orange surface. Can't tell if he sanded the area or if it is a sticker (I don't own the toolbox).
Perhaps someone that has the box can tell if it is indeed a sticker?
Thank you very much for your response. I bet it is not an easy job!
I have never plasti-dip anything, but I will give it a try. Lots of taping to do.
Not sure how to do the small locking hinges, so I may remove them completely.
Is there a need to sand the large name plate? Any reason you didn't plasti-dip the handle as well (Assuming you went through the pain of doing the locking hinges)?
LOL - My OCD kicked in since I saw the first few photos in the thread! On my way to Home Depot to get this box and give it a try.
1)I use the SPRAY plasti-dip (could have use standard black spray paint) so I
just masked around the logo.
2)Orange bands on buckles I snipped off with a pair of dikes
3) no sanding the logo, 3 coats of plasti-dip
4)did not plasti-dip (or paint) the handles A)major wear spot and doesnt do
good on rubber. B) I made a cut hoping the orange was a band I could get
off with one cut, it's not.
If I had to do over I would go the same route I did, they turned out nice. I got both boxes for $39 combined do to a Home Depot Black Friday ad mistake. So screwing them up and not using them was always an option.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Polaris RZR Forum - RZR Forums.net
3.1M posts
141.7K members
Since 2007
A forum dedicated to Polaris RZR enthusiasts! A great place to find rides, meet people, and exchange ideas / parts/ rzrs!