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So are u telling me I have to purchase a diffent head unit and amp?
And I have had my RZR Less than a month, might explain why I have not hurd of these issues, but I am slowly figuring them out

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Oh congrats man! You could probably get away with the head unit, but I’d venture to say that you’ll need a different amp. At least those are easy to swap out. Sounds like mtautosports has a lead on something that might work for you. First I have heard of this and would be great news.
 

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Yes, With the Powerbass Amps. I run the Glove Box SSV sub, 4 MB Quartz Door speakers and 2 pods at the feet with JL 6 1/2’s in the pods
Thats great news. Can you explain what exactly arc audio unit is doing to filter the sound out? Is it actually just processing the audio and taking the high frequency out of it as it sees fit?
BTW, is it the PSM unit you’re running?
 
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Yes, Running Ride Command as head unit and PSM Arc Audio unit. It’s a digital Sound Processor that you can pre program via computer or there are some pre Programmed parametrics and crossovers that are built in that you can use. Without question a fantastic unit! The built in crossover in the Ride Command unit is terrible, if you want any bass at all you have to have a signal processor of some kind and the Arc Audio covers both high end and low end crossovers because volume is what you need when your riding so it’s important to find something that will do that!
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Oh congrats man! You could probably get away with the head unit, but I’d venture to say that you’ll need a different amp. At least those are easy to swap out. Sounds like mtautosports has a lead on something that might work for you. First I have heard of this and would be great news.
Thanks!! The only thing I regret is waiting so long to get one
MOST DEFINITELY going to be purchasing a amp compatible for the RZR, and looking into also doing a Voltage Regulator upgrade and keeping a spair to get me back home. This forum has been great to figure out the week link on these toys...

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Discussion Starter #29
Yes, Running Ride Command as head unit and PSM Arc Audio unit. It’s a digital Sound Processor that you can pre program via computer or there are some pre Programmed parametrics and crossovers that are built in that you can use. Without question a fantastic unit! The built in crossover in the Ride Command unit is terrible, if you want any bass at all you have to have a signal processor of some kind and the Arc Audio covers both high end and low end crossovers because volume is what you need when your riding so it’s important to find something that will do that!
Do u still recomend the Audio Prossecor with just 2 speaker in the rear? Not trying to get too carried away with the stereo system in the RZR, just some music for the rides. I actually feel I should have just purchased some 6" speakers instead of the 8" ones, I did not relize how big they were

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Yes, Running Ride Command as head unit and PSM Arc Audio unit. It’s a digital Sound Processor that you can pre program via computer or there are some pre Programmed parametrics and crossovers that are built in that you can use. Without question a fantastic unit! The built in crossover in the Ride Command unit is terrible, if you want any bass at all you have to have a signal processor of some kind and the Arc Audio covers both high end and low end crossovers because volume is what you need when your riding so it’s important to find something that will do that!
Okay, I see.
So, is it the Powerbass amp, or the PSM unit that fixed the Dynamix noise you were having? Sorry I’m not understanding exactly.
 

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I had installed a stereo all jl audio (marine speakers, marine amp and sub ) and a mtx Bluetooth remote head unit, I stayed away from ride command as a head unit. My system sounds great with no feedback or problems.


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Correct if you stay away from the ride command unit it’s a non issue! I’m kind of Car Audio Holic so for me it was about making it work. Correct the PSM is what killed the noise for me! You can try the MB Quartz set up With the Bluetooth module and just completely bypass the ride command If you want to save a few dollars And just stream your phone to the Bluetooth module that plugs into the amp and not have to add a whole other head unit!
 

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Correct if you stay away from the ride command unit it’s a non issue! I’m kind of Car Audio Holic so for me it was about making it work. Correct the PSM is what killed the noise for me! You can try the MB Quartz set up With the Bluetooth module and just completely bypass the ride command If you want to save a few dollars And just stream your phone to the Bluetooth module that plugs into the amp and not have to add a whole other head unit!
I agree! I went with the ride command as a head unit and had noise, i also didn’t like the way it acted when using phone for playing music blue tooth. I went with what works.


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Discussion Starter #36
Correct if you stay away from the ride command unit it’s a non issue! I’m kind of Car Audio Holic so for me it was about making it work. Correct the PSM is what killed the noise for me! You can try the MB Quartz set up With the Bluetooth module and just completely bypass the ride command If you want to save a few dollars And just stream your phone to the Bluetooth module that plugs into the amp and not have to add a whole other head unit!
I am definitely like u and want to make the ride command work, so it sounds like I need the PCM, along with I am assuming a 350 watt amp since my speakers are rated at 300.. were can I find the PCM at?


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Discussion Starter #39
Couple things you’ll need! Are you going to run just 2 speakers?
That is the plan for now. I might add 2 more up front at a later date. Will the 350 watt amp be enough, or do u think I need to go bigger? Still trying to figure out if I want to purchase the PCM unit and a amp, or just purchase a separate head unit and get away from the Ride Command 100%

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If so, you want to run your Ride Command adapter off the Amp 2 connection. This will allow you more full range and bass and then fading capabilities which you have control over the Bass, Mid and Highs where Amp 3 has no control and is just full range which is why it sucks for a sub without a processor.

Also, there’s a regulated adapter you should use that will prevent the really bad popping noise when the car turns off. The fang lights stay on and so does the electrical feed to the ride command and when it turns off there is a loud pop every time unless you use the adapter!

I will look into the PSM and see if I can get ya a deal, I can look at the Amp, the XL355-DM for you too if you’d like!
 
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