That is awesome! Any pictures of how you swing the arm out of the way, and how it is held up? I have looked into this myself. Great mod!!!

 

I'll go out and take a pic of it.

Took mine off today. Then took a 275 pond guy for a ride. When we got to the back of the shop thought we were going to tip over, was not a very good feeling. Is it better to jump with or without the sway bar?

I have yet to jump mine yet so I wouldn't know. But also, like I said, it won't be disconnected for high speed playing or when I drive on the street. Only when rock crawling all day.

 

Took mine off today. Then took a 275 pond guy for a ride. When we got to the back of the shop thought we were going to tip over, was not a very good feeling. Is it better to jump with or without the sway bar?

 

Here it is connected on the bottom. Both sides look the same.

Then how I clip it up when disconnected. Just drilled a 3/8 hole in the bracket up there.

 

Nice and simple! I always wanted to do a hitch pin, but never thought about using one on each end like that. Smart idea, and thanks for sharing!

 

hitch pin is only at the bottom at the control arm. There is no way to use a pin for the upper mount where the link mounts to the bar.

 

Okay, so looking at the last picture I assume you are performing this action on the right rear corner. If you are able to leave the top bolt installed on the swar bay end link and rotate it up to pin it on the other bracket, then you must have a different a-arm guard design or none at all. The top of the end link pivots in a way that the arm would swing forward and back, parallel to the rzr. If it swings back, it would hit the shock and upper a-arm. If it swings forward, it would hit the a-arm guard (if using EMP, FUTV, etc). That is what would happen on my 2012 RZR4 with EMP guards anyway.

Just curious. I suppose a guy could notch out a section of the a-arm guard to let the end link pass through.

Definitely think this is a great budget mod. Great job, and thanks for all the info.

 

Okay, so looking at the last picture I assume you are performing this action on the right rear corner.

No no no. If you only disconnect one side and hook that side to the bracket under the bed then you will rip that bracket off as soon as you start driving because it would still be connected to the other side and would try to move up and down with that wheel.

BOTH SIDES have pins in the lower mount at the control arm. Both sides must be removed and pinned up under the bed.

 

Hey I got a 2012 Xp and I see the rear sway bar but not sure about the front. Can anyone provide pics of the front and also how to disconnect and strap it up outta the way please.

 

The XP has no front sway bar. For the rear I just rotated it up and bungy strapped mine to the frame when i needed articulation back before I got progressive springs..now it's in the junk pile

 

Hummmm I need to do some research for my XP... I have been looking for something like this.

 

Pretty fast and easy. Keeps the bar out of the way and no fears of the bungie falling off. Tried the bungie thing on a Jeep and that ended badly with a ripped inner sidewall of a new 35 inch tire.

 

I like it... have you ran it hooked back up using the hitch pins? Just wondering how those pins will hold up as far as the wire clips staying closed. Does that make sense? Actually just looked at your photo and it seems the link end is held in pretty good between the tabs so you shouldn't get much if any side to side movement.

 

Yea, no side load on the wire clips at all since the end link is mounted between 2 tabs.

Only down side is a small amount of rattle on the street when hooked up because the hitch pins are standard and the hole in the end link is metric. Doesn't bother me with all the other noise from the rig. But to make it perfect, a metric pin would need to be found or made but I don't think you could ever get all the play out of it.