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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Is there anything I can do turbo-wise for say 2K from one of the major manufacturers? What's available that would give me boost, but not necessarily 10-13psi with full blown intercoolers, oil coolers, cutting the bed, etc. Is there something worth considering that I can build on over time that might give me an initial 15-20hp jump, which could then be tuned and improved upon? I don't want to spend cash on bolt-on parts (sans turbo) that I'll have to sell or throw away in 12 months time. -I'm sure I'll get plenty of forget-it-Dude...just save your money until you can buy one. Well that option is obvious....just wondering if it's all-or-nothing deal, and if this can be a staged project.

One thing I've noticed looking at the power graphs is that turbos and supercharges give the extra HP beyond 5000rpm; up into the 6 and 7000 range is where the real power is made. What are the options for lower rpm HP? Maybe that's where BB shines. I guess I need to look closer at the BB charts and compare. I'm sure people will have good input on this though....

Thanks.
 

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it would be a home run for any vendor that could produce a bolt on 20-30hp kit for a low price.
Lots of people would jump on it I bet.

I also bet they would soon want more HP and want to upgrade to a higher boost kit...
 

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The cheapest kit I have seen is an ebay kit for $2800.

Mike
 

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I also bet they would soon want more HP and want to upgrade to a higher boost kit...
Maybe, Maybe not.. You guys out in the Dunes are a little different then a lot of us. You need all the wide open power you can get to climb those dunes fast. I got to drive/ride in a 89Hp turbo RZR With a dragon fire LT kit. Very fun, But to tell you the truth in our area its simply to much.. So much power it just spins all four wheels. Its like driving on ice. Most of our riding is tight trails and some hill climbs. Not a ton of places to run wide open for very long. I'd like a little more low end grunt and a little extra A$$ for some of the larger hills. But I have no need at all to run 70mph. don't really need a motor that shines at 7k rpms either lol.

I think your stuck :( Best option right now for a 15-20 Hp bump is a Big Bore kit. Take your 2 and add 2 more :(
 
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I also bet they would soon want more HP and want to upgrade to a higher boost kit...
Maybe, Maybe not.. You guys out in the Dunes are a little different then a lot of us. You need all the wide open power you can get to climb those dunes fast. I got to drive/ride in a 89Hp turbo RZR With a dragon fire LT kit. Very fun, But to tell you the truth in our area its simply to much.. So much power it just spins all four wheels. Its like driving on ice. Most of our riding is tight trails and some hill climbs. Not a ton of places to run wide open for very long. I'd like a little more low end grunt and a little extra A$$ for some of the larger hills. But I have no need at all to run 70mph. don't really need a motor that shines at 7k rpms either lol.

I think your stuck :( Best option right now for a 15-20 Hp bump is a Big Bore kit. Take your 2 and add 2 more :(
I have no trouble at all on the trails with mine..the power is very controllable..yes if I hammer it it is going to spin,but there's no need for that on the trails unless I am just goofing off....but it makes boost part throttle and definitely has more low end grunt than it did before..plenty IMO.

Funride-What dyno graphs are you looking at? ONe thing to consider is were the dynos wheel dynos and if so were the clutches locked? If the clutches weren't locked that will probaly skew the results and make it look like it only makes power at or near the RPMs it is clutched to shift out at...the power isn't like a light switch. THat was a concern I had with the turbo..luckily it doesn't wokr that way. Yes for max performance it seems they like to be clutched at 6800 or so...but it isn't mandatory..you could clutch it lower and still make plenty of power.
I can cruise down the trail at 30 mph making a few psi at 1/4 throttle or so..roll into it to say 1/2 throttle and it makes 5-7 and pulls away nicely. Without the turbo I'd have to be at 1/2 throttle or better running 30 and and 30 going WOT on a stock machine it wouldn't accelerate like it does at 1/2 throttle with the turbo.
Easing along at say 10 mph...no boost obviously as the load is low..come up to a hill and say go half throttle or so though and it will make boost but it is very controllable. Alot of that will vary by how much boost you are runnning...now if I was running 20 psi it might very well be uncontrollable for the trails..but not at 10 or less IMO.
 
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Holz BBK would be a good option too though..I struggled with that choice myself...I just couldn't get past the cost of the BBK for the power gain...I don't recall the exact cost, but I do rememer if I factored in the having to send in the cores(ie price it out without sending cores) the cost is actually about the same,maybe even more than a Turbo kit with pistons..yes you can send in the cores and cut cost but in my mind that is still a factor in cost...having to send back my parts...they aren't free..if that makes sense.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I also bet they would soon want more HP and want to upgrade to a higher boost kit...
.... So much power it just spins all four wheels. Its like driving on ice. Most of our riding is tight trails and some hill climbs. Not a ton of places to run wide open for very long. I'd like a little more low end grunt and a little extra A$$ for some of the larger hills. But I have no need at all to run 70mph. don't really need a motor that shines at 7k rpms either lol.
Hummm. This is what I was thinking. I like to punch it and rip on straights and fields, but realistically it's not all that often I see 7K on the tach....Sounds perfect for the dunes though. Wish we had some dunes....

But as Tuf says, I bet it would be a fun and highly profitable upgrade for 20hp increase. I don't want to rebuild a perfectly fine engine. I want the factory reliability.

Wonder what a non-intercooled, low pressure supercharger would do.
 
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I also bet they would soon want more HP and want to upgrade to a higher boost kit...
.... So much power it just spins all four wheels. Its like driving on ice. Most of our riding is tight trails and some hill climbs. Not a ton of places to run wide open for very long. I'd like a little more low end grunt and a little extra A$$ for some of the larger hills. But I have no need at all to run 70mph. don't really need a motor that shines at 7k rpms either lol.
Hummm. This is what I was thinking. I like to punch it and rip on straights and fields, but realistically it's not all that often I see 7K on the tach....Sounds perfect for the dunes though. Wish we had some dunes....

But as Tuf says, I bet it would be a fun and highly profitable upgrade for 20hp increase. I don't want to rebuild a perfectly fine engine. I want the factory reliability.

Wonder what a non-intercooled, low pressure supercharger would do.

You won't ever see 7k on the tach on a stock machine...:rofl3:
Seriously though..the RPMS you do see stock is because of how it is clutched...
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Funride-What dyno graphs are you looking at? ONe thing to consider is were the dynos wheel dynos and if so were the clutches locked? If the clutches weren't locked that will probaly skew the results and make it look like it only makes power at or near the RPMs it is clutched to shift out at...the power isn't like a light switch. THat was a concern I had with the turbo..luckily it doesn't wokr that way. Yes for max performance it seems they like to be clutched at 6800 or so...but it isn't mandatory..you could clutch it lower and still make plenty of power.
I can cruise down the trail at 30 mph making a few psi at 1/4 throttle or so..roll into it to say 1/2 throttle and it makes 5-7 and pulls away nicely. Without the turbo I'd have to be at 1/2 throttle or better running 30 and and 30 going WOT on a stock machine it wouldn't accelerate like it does at 1/2 throttle with the turbo.
Easing along at say 10 mph...no boost obviously as the load is low..come up to a hill and say go half throttle or so though and it will make boost but it is very controllable. Alot of that will vary by how much boost you are runnning...now if I was running 20 psi it might very well be uncontrollable for the trails..but not at 10 or less IMO.
Rod...Good description of what it's like on the trails. TY. Graph link below. From the looks of the graph, it makes nearly identical power up to 4500. But like you said, there's clutching issues. I really don't want to take this engine apart right now and rebuild it with a BBK. It's brand new.

Gotta say, a turbo RZR with tracks in the winter sounds like a lot of fun :)


Edit: Here's a link to the graph so you can use the magnifying option and zoom in on the numbers: http://www.mountainperformance.com/images/RZR Dyno Curve-flat.jpg

Also just noticed that this is for a superchager from Moutain Performance, but it's still forced induction. Turbo must be very similar, but maybe not as much low end, due to minor lag? Boost numbers seem about the same, maybe less boost.
 
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Funride-What dyno graphs are you looking at? ONe thing to consider is were the dynos wheel dynos and if so were the clutches locked? If the clutches weren't locked that will probaly skew the results and make it look like it only makes power at or near the RPMs it is clutched to shift out at...the power isn't like a light switch. THat was a concern I had with the turbo..luckily it doesn't wokr that way. Yes for max performance it seems they like to be clutched at 6800 or so...but it isn't mandatory..you could clutch it lower and still make plenty of power.
I can cruise down the trail at 30 mph making a few psi at 1/4 throttle or so..roll into it to say 1/2 throttle and it makes 5-7 and pulls away nicely. Without the turbo I'd have to be at 1/2 throttle or better running 30 and and 30 going WOT on a stock machine it wouldn't accelerate like it does at 1/2 throttle with the turbo.
Easing along at say 10 mph...no boost obviously as the load is low..come up to a hill and say go half throttle or so though and it will make boost but it is very controllable. Alot of that will vary by how much boost you are runnning...now if I was running 20 psi it might very well be uncontrollable for the trails..but not at 10 or less IMO.
Rod...Good description of what it's like on the trails. TY. I'd tried to attach a copy of the graphs I was looking at, but it wouldn't take. Think it was a .GIF or something strange. I'll convert to .jpg and post it. From the looks of the graph I was looking at, it makes nearly identical power up to 4500. But like you said, there's clutching issues.

I really don't want to take this engine apart right now. It's brand new.

Gotta say, a turbo RZR with tracks in the winter sounds like a lot of fun :)
Yeah wheel dyno graphs on a CVT machines without the clutches locked..i'm not so sure about.
Anyway..for the heck of it let's say that is accurate(would depend on what turbo kit and how it spools) but le't say it is accurate. Have you noticed what your RPMs do,even on a stock clutched machine, when you need a little more power? Hard to load the engine very much at all below 4500...the CVT just won't let you..load it and it downshifts..
Which is also presicely why dyno results with unlocked clutches are IMO not going to tell the whole story.
I'm not trying to sell you a turbo kit..my only interest is I had the similar concerns..I was worried it wouldn't help the low end grunt and the power would be like a light switch...I was pleasently suprised that it did help the "low end"( I went from having to swithc to low on the trails for every hill I came to when it was stock to rarely ever using low with the Turbo) and the power is controllable..of course what I like and feel is controllable the next guy may hate..
I wasn't crazy about the idea of sending in my brand new engine parts for a BBK ..another option was buying some used,but "serviceable" parts off e-bay or something to send in for cores. But I get it...you don't want to tear into a perfectly good engine.
Good luck with your choice...I know you probably aren't in a huge hurry and will research everything well and think it all through thoroghly.
 
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ON the subject of a lower boost Turbo kit...IMO you probably wouldn't be able to save much just by running less boost...many of the components would still be needed...guess you could do without the intercooler..other than that the basics would still be required..
As someone mentioned the TSI kit is probably the lowest cost..if you think you might be interested in that kit...just make sure you research it so you know what to expect..
 
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BTW,a little off topic but something to maybe consider.. if I had to pick one thing I didn't care for about the Turbo set up...it would have to be that it is louder than stock...not alot louder unless you have your foot in it..but it is loude. Might have to talk to Rayce and see if there are any options to give up a few ponies and quieten it down some..guess I am getting old. lol
 

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nitrous! best bang for your buck! very safe these days too!
 
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nitrous! best bang for your buck! very safe these days too!
I've been there..Nitrous sure is fun..can get addicting...but like the old saying goes.."it gets old having to get bottles filled". For the occasional Drag Racer,or maybe even the dunes? Nitrous is nice..you can stack it on top of the turbo too :ride:
But for someone who wants better power oout on the trails the thing to consider with N20..it won't help with part throttle...most basic kits are designed to only come on at or very near WOT..and many also only come on above a preset RPM..
 

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part throttle power is irrelevant, if you want more power, just push the pedal farther!!! the nice thing is it can be turned off too! i was just stating the bang for your buck theory. $600 for true 20hp! nothing else comes close.
 
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since the supercharger is connected to the crank, the boost level is dependant on engine rpm.
True...the SC..is tied to the crank..but as you know a turbo is also RPM dependant...gotta have enough exhast flow to spool it...a/r ect and matching the turbo to the engine will of course determine how it spools..same thing applies to a centrifugal SC...except it isn't dependant on exhaust flow but drive ratio..also they eat HP via parasitic drive losses,all SCs do......now if we were talking a postive displacement type SC(ie Twin Screw..see Whipple/Kenne Bell}...the game might be different...with a PD SC it would be possible to make full boost just above clutch engagement RPM..with the right PD set up you could see full boost faster than your right food could get to the floor..:scared2::ride: Not sure that would be a good thing on the CVT set up though..and stock cranks and the driveline definitely woudn't like it...it would likely put the big bore kits out of business as the first mod though..
 
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