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Turbomike
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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2017 rzr turbo. I drive it on forest service roads in the mountains of Wyoming. It is never jumped or in more that a foot of water. Basically I drive it like a Jeep to explore back woods. It has about 3200 miles on it. Oil and fluids are changed regular.
A few days ago I was driving down a dirt road about 30 mph and it died. Just like it I had turned the key off. Coasted to a stop and restarted it and drove a couple miles and it did it again. Seems to do it after I drive 15-20 miles. It never misses or no loss of power. I’ve had it at the dealer and they checked codes, analyzed the gas, checked fuel pump. They couldn’t find anything wrong. Sprayed some electrical connector cleaner on maps and fuel injector caps and replaced plugs.
It acts just like I turn the key off and as soon as I turn it back on, it runs. Even before I come to a complete stop. Could it have something to do with the ignition switch or a relay?
I drove it 100 miles and it ran great then last night it stalled on me several times. I checked map wiring to see if there might be a break in wires I could fix with pigtail kits. I wiggled the wires hoping to make it stall but nothing. I’m out of ideas other than spending big bucks having the Polaris mechanic go over wiring with a fine tooth comb.
I’m desperate for suggestions. I used to build cars from the ground up but anything with a computer and map sensors and such are somewhat intimidating.
Help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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I have a 2017 rzr turbo. I drive it on forest service roads in the mountains of Wyoming. It is never jumped or in more that a foot of water. Basically I drive it like a Jeep to explore back woods. It has about 3200 miles on it. Oil and fluids are changed regular.
A few days ago I was driving down a dirt road about 30 mph and it died. Just like it I had turned the key off. Coasted to a stop and restarted it and drove a couple miles and it did it again. Seems to do it after I drive 15-20 miles. It never misses or no loss of power. I’ve had it at the dealer and they checked codes, analyzed the gas, checked fuel pump. They couldn’t find anything wrong. Sprayed some electrical connector cleaner on maps and fuel injector caps and replaced plugs.
It acts just like I turn the key off and as soon as I turn it back on, it runs. Even before I come to a complete stop. Could it have something to do with the ignition switch or a relay?
I drove it 100 miles and it ran great then last night it stalled on me several times. I checked map wiring to see if there might be a break in wires I could fix with pigtail kits. I wiggled the wires hoping to make it stall but nothing. I’m out of ideas other than spending big bucks having the Polaris mechanic go over wiring with a fine tooth comb.
I’m desperate for suggestions. I used to build cars from the ground up but anything with a computer and map sensors and such are somewhat intimidating.
Help would be greatly appreciated.
I fixed an issue like this on my girls L300 not too long ago. It was her CPS sensor failing. Would run fine when cold outside, but as soon as the sensor itself got too hot, it would malfunction and the car would shut off. No codes either, and the sensor ohm’d out alright because I could only test when cold of course.

You may want to check that sensor and if it’s easy/inexpensive to replace, then try it out. My bet is one of the sensors failing under heat stress intermittently. Eventually it will fail every time, as it’s just starting its way out.

Btw- I’m referring to the crankshaft position sensor, but there is a camshaft position sensor as well.
 

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When the engine quits, does the dash go dark or stay lit? Headlights and PS when it happens?
 

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Turbomike
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88 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
All stays on. I’m thinking also it could be a worn belt, over 3k miles on it causing crank position to get off some?
 

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If you mean the timing chain, I don’t think so. You’d see other issues before this.

Come to think of it, my MAP sensor in my bricknose 460 was going out and would do exactly this too. It wasn’t the heat though, it’s just that it was a REALLY old sensor. Would drive fine for a week, then would go out three times in a row. Engine would die and start back up again, die again later.

I believe these use a MAP sensor right?
 

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Had this problem on my fathers 2016 RZR 1000XP HL. It ended up being the connection behind the dash for the ignition. A tab had been bent from the factory. Took 3 years and ~600 miles of mud riding to begin. Dealer had to go through the whole ignition system starting at they key checking all the connections, making sure they were good.

Hopefully its something that simple - best of luck
 

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Turbomike
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88 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Was that the on off switch? That’s what it acts like. Turn key off then starts right back up. I think there is a relay on the ignition switch also ???
 
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