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Lightbars stopped working suddenly

19K views 21 replies 10 participants last post by  Tdwolf  
#1 ·
I have front and rear light bars and they both stopped working. The front LED bar stopped working first and I was trying to troubleshoot it. Somehow in the process, the back lights stopped working too. I can't figure it out for the life of me.

I got a new light bar for the front thinking there was something wrong with the bar itself but when I hooked it up, still no light (and I tested the new light bar off the back wiring and confirmed the bar actually works, so that's good). I tested the wires going to the front light bar and there was 25 volts coming through. When I connected the positive and negatives to the new light nothing. And with everything connected, the voltage was only about 15 volts. Weird. Anyway, then I was messing with the back lights and all of a sudden poof! The backlights shut off and the light switches on the dash turned dark (instead of being lit up red). Any ideas about what I did wrong? Did the switches blow?
 
#4 ·
I'm sure about the 25 volts and all the lights work. Why? Is that too low? It's the same amount of voltage that's powering the back lights (although they are much smaller so maybe they don't require as much voltage?) I don't know. Does the fact that there's voltage coming out at all (albiet only 25 volts) a sign that it's not a fuse?
 
#10 ·
It's not running directly from the battery. I just tested the light directly on the battery terminals to make sure it was working. The front and back light sets both have their own on/off switches. Here are pictures of the battery, fuse box, and relay switch if that helps at all. Thank you.
 

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#11 ·
One more important thing to note. The wires powering the light bar are reading 25 volts but as soon as I connect the light bar to those wires, the voltage drops to about 14 volts. Is that the sign of a ground issue or a restriction somewhere in the circuit? If so, why is there 25 volts and then it drops when a load is connected?
 
#14 ·
Unless you have 2 batteries wired in series, I'm going to say you have voltage regulator problems or worse. You definately should not be getting 24 volts from a single 12 volt battery with the engine not running!
 
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#15 ·
make sure your voltmeter isnt telling you mV. if you are running one 12v battery and nothing else you wont get more than 14ish volts (engine running). check your voltage at each wiring transition you should have 12 volts. going into your relay from the main power source and a 12v trigger. if you have good power going into the relay and the bar isnt coming on swap the relay with the rear one you have and i bet the light comes on.
 
#18 ·
^^^^^^^ What he said ^^^^^^^

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#19 ·
Looks like the wiring for that relay is getting all its power from the low current accessory power point... hard to tell, but since there is no power wire to the battery direct post other than the winch (and the wire to the battery), where is the light bar getting its main power from? There isn’t any extra wires in the picture of the battery, so it is getting all its power from the ACC post which is low current for triggering relays, and shouldn’t be used to power the actual light bar. I can’t believe more fuses haven’t blown, but perhaps something else is now fried since your getting 24 volts, which it should never be on a 12v system.

And people wonder why RZRs burn up on the trail... [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]


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#22 ·
UPDATE
Hey, sorry for the long-overdue update. I got everything working by replacing the wiring harness and switch (got a replacement wiring harness off Amazon for like $20). I think the original problem was a loose or corroded wire somewhere downstream that was causing the voltage to drop. I was being a dummy with the voltage--I had my multimeter set to AC current, not DC. When I correctly set it to DC, it was showing 12v current (as everyone already knew). So, I appreciate everyone's help and feel good that I was able to troubleshoot and fix the problem.