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The One and Only
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Found this on the web while researching for my self. Please feel free to delete it if there is a sticky somewhere I missed:

Only thing I would change below is I'm using 10ga and 12ga wiring. Also most likely no fuse to the switch as I will probably use the acc on the block instead that is already fused behind the seat.
http://www.visionxusa.com/documents/LPWiring.pdf



Autozone:
Part numbers (from receipt):
Relay: 12vdc 40a ( chepaer than 30a ) 004324 $5.99
Fuse Holder 12ga 30a Max: 032351 $3.25

I wired mine up this way last night and it worked well. Updated below from scribbles to a cleaner diagram. Hope it helps someone else. * One thing I would add is you probably want to ground out the distribution block with a 10GA ground wire to the frame. I'll include that in the diagram later.
 

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The One and Only
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Thought I would post a picture of what it looks like so far. It is almost all there.

 

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Those big wires are overkill for that particular light.

Use this..
Wire gauge calculator : Denning Electronics

Remember *MOST* LED lightbars use voltage regulators. So they have a large voltage range. Lets say 8-24 Volts. That 12" bar probably pulls no more than 3-5 Amps. Use a volt meter to determine that.

This gives you a large range for wiring. In a rzr, wiring from the dash to the bumper is no more than 5 Feet.

12 Volts X 5 Amps = 60 Watts.. 60 Watts for 5 feet, minimum wire size is 20G. 14-16 G is more than sufficient for the light it self.. (battery to 30, light to 87)

As far as the coil in the relay, you can use the smallest wire you can find.. You won't find one too small that can actuate it.

And don't forget your Diodes!

Good info on relays.

Relays
 

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So would a 12" totron cree light bar need a relay or is a 20 amp switch with 14 gauge wiring sufficient?? I could see a 30"+ bar needing a relay but wandering about a 12"??
 

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So would a 12" totron cree light bar need a relay or is a 20 amp switch with 14 gauge wiring sufficient?? I could see a 30"+ bar needing a relay but wandering about a 12"??

I run relays on all of my bars, BUT!!! the 12" and smaller bars you can get away fairly safely with a good 15-20 amp switch and no relay. I use the carling switches in my machine.
 

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The nice thing about relays is the control.

You can locate the relays in locations where bigger wires can be hidden then use control wires to activate the switch.

Running a small two conductor wire from a low amperage switch (2-5 amp) (smaller) to a relay for control opens up a lot.

Put some of these under the hood.. Control them with small switches.

Good prices for relays and sockets. They also carry fuse blocks that are water resistant.
Relays
 

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As you can see 30 is connected to 87a in a normal state. 87a is referred to as a normally closed point. There is a connection between 30 and 87a when the control switch is off. When you energize the coil with the control switch, 87a becomes open or not connected to 30, allowing 30 to connect to 87 known as Normally Open point. 30 is known as the "common" connection.
 

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Using this wiring and configuration, The wires you hook to 30 and 87 are the only wires that need to be size/load dependent. Lets say a 12 inch bar pulls 3 amps with a 5 foot run + run to battery for a total of 12 feet. Math says 18G wire but I always run one size bigger for duty rating. So 16g Wire would be perfect size for your connections on 30 & 87.

Now for the connections to 85 & 86. Those can be any size you want. 85 will connect to chassis ground. 86 will come from your control switch. This can be any size. There is minimal load for coil energizing. Make sure to use fuses for any connections to the battery. Always put the fuse at the battery.

Wire to switch can be a 1 amp fuse. Wire to 30 from battery can be a 5 amp fuse for a 12 inch bar application.

Using this drawing..
85 is Ground
86 is switched power. (control switch from dash)
30 is A+ (Battery Positive with fuse) Known as the common point of contact in relays.
87 is Load. (lights or whatever) Known as Normally open point of contact in relays.

Good rule of thumb when purchasing wire.. for Low voltage applications, always get wire with the most amount of strands. It doesn't flow through the wire, it flows on the outside of each strand.
 

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Nice


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Diodes??


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If anyone's interested... Vision X has a LED Light Bar harness with heavy duty switches and relay and everything ready to roll for $40.00...

Or Polaris has one that uses the polaris relay/fuse and polaris OE looking switch for $60.00.. Part number #2879859..

For $60 that's cheaper than just buying a light switch from Polaris..so not a bad deal IMO.
 

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I found a 20amp lighted switch 12 volt 10 bucks googled it you don't need a relay for 20 amp or less


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Whats the point of the relay? If you are using a fuse box like the one below, do you need a relay?

 

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I found a 20amp lighted switch 12 volt 10 bucks googled it you don't need a relay for 20 amp or less
The OTRATTW Carling switches are less than $10 as well.
Quoted to correct myself. The OTRATTW switches aren't under $10. They are roughly about $15/ea.

Just curious why all the legit lightbar companies include relay's in there harnesses?
If the light bar draws enough amps, your switch isn't built to take those amps, etc which will cause issues with burning up your switch and/or wiring, etc.

Whats the point of the relay? If you are using a fuse box like the one below, do you need a relay?
The relay allows you to use the switch with a low power signal instead of having to send all those amps through your switch which would be a problem for larger light bars, etc. Say you install a 40" LED bar that is 30 amps for example. The whole 30 amps would have to go through that switch if there wasn't a relay. That won't work so you use a relay to operate your item/device using a low power signal.

I'm using a Blue Sea 5026 ST fuse box as well, the one with 12 fuses. I'm still running two relays for my front & rear LED light bars. So I would recommend it unless you are only doing some small lights. The fuse box and relay are two different issues really.
 
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