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I have heard that they do interfere with the scraper. However I can you for a fact even if you have to remove the scraper they are well worth the trade off. I have been running them for almost 3 years now, the same set, and I have put them to the test on some of the gnarliest trails anywhere. They have a lifetime warranty and you will not have to worry about ball joints again.
 

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Yes you will have to remove the wheel scrapers or modify them for the upper ball joints to fit. I talked with Todd Keller and he said in 2018 Pol started adding these wheel scrapers and they do need to be removed or modified for his upper ball joints to work. Mine bolt on so they are easy to remove , but Todd said on the 2019 models they are one piece and may have to be cut or modified
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks Max H , mine is a 2018 also so I may just remove them but it would not take a lot to modify them I don’t think.
Did you remove yours or modify them?
 

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I would just remove them. I dont think they really do much and they dont have them in the back anyway , only the front...so they cant be that important. Also none of the pre 2018 models had them and I never had a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks Max H
My thoughts also on the not being in the back.
I am just going to remove them and truth be known it will make cleaning the caliper area better.
 

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2600 miles on my Keller's in 2 seasons in Tennessee and WV with zero issues. I pull them apart every winter to clean and re gease them. I'm running them on aftermarket atv fourplay a arms on my rs1 with scrapers removed. I never tried them with scrapers on because I'm running a streamline big brake kit and couldn't leave the scrapers on anyways. My opinion is it's the only ball joint to run if you are wanting a real ball joint upgrade. Most all others still use the clip style and the clip is normally what fails. Spend the money once and service them once a year and they should out live your rzr.
 

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After ordering all 4 Keller ball joints , I had a few questions so I called and talked with Todd Keller. I have to say he seems to be a really honest vendor. I am impressed at the time he took and willingness to explain his product and even how he got started. I am glad I called him it was very informative

When I was looking to order new ball joints I did a lot of research and Keller is no doubt the king as far as I could find. One ball joint that does not get a lot of play is the Frap reverse load joints. They are about half the price and have very good reports. I know DBRS1 has had good results as well.
So While I had Todd on the phone I asked him about his thoughts on the FRAP Italian joints. He said they are a good product and a good option for someone that cant afford his joints. He has recommended them to some customers in the past.
They are in NO WAY a Keller and he clearly stated that .. but for 50.00 bucks each ...for a much stronger option over factory it is good consideration.

I am glad I went with the Keller's and even more so after talking with Todd and hearing his open honest approach with his product and his customers !
 

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He is a very good guy and stands by his product. I will be using his "Mega" ball joints on the new build ?
 

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I most definitely was very impressed with the correct load fraps. I put some serious hard miles on 2 different sets with zero issues. For the money I think the frap blows all the other non Keller ball joints out of the water. It's the only one that actually addresses the issue of the clip taking all the load. I went with Keller's when I did my atv fourplay stuff because I knew I wanted something I could absolutely abuse without having any worries.

On a side note I also run Keller's u joints in my drive shaft and they have been Rock solid as well.
 

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Hmmm...now I am going to have to check out his u joints....Thanks a lot DBRS1 :grin

I seriously think my RZR addiction is getting out of control .....:tools1:
 

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He uses the Spicer joints and machines out bronze cups that slide into the caps to do away with the little needle bearings. Plus they have a grease zerk. Another thing to note about Keller ball joints is make sure you have a rubber tipped needle greaser adapter for your grease gun.

And trust me every time I say I think I'm finally done buying things I come up with some stupid reason to buy more things or better things lol. I swear it's a sickness or a disease!
 

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Thanks that's good info ...question I have the metal grease tip with the correct angle to fit the Keller grease points ...but it is not rubber tipped ..is it really needed ?. Can you give me a little more info on the one I need ? ...when you have time , no rush

Thank you
 

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It doesn't have to have a rubber tip it just requires a shit load of pressure to be able to inject the grease without making a mess. I found the rubber tip makes a nice tight seal with little pressure. I tend to run a bit thinner grease on my rzr. I run Kendal super blue in my wheel bearings, Keller u joints and Keller ball joints. I'm a maintenance crazy guy that way over maintenances my rzr. After every ride it's gets every fluid changed except engine oil and that's every other ride. I grease everything daily or at least once b4 the weekend depending if it's a mud hole out or not.
 

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It doesn't have to have a rubber tip it just requires a shit load of pressure to be able to inject the grease without making a mess. I found the rubber tip makes a nice tight seal with little pressure. I tend to run a bit thinner grease on my rzr. I run Kendal super blue in my wheel bearings, Keller u joints and Keller ball joints. I'm a maintenance crazy guy that way over maintenances my rzr. After every ride it's gets every fluid changed except engine oil and that's every other ride. I grease everything daily or at least once b4 the weekend depending if it's a mud hole out or not.
Perfect ....thank you, I now have more questions specifically about grease ...but I will wait until tomorrow.
 

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You need a needle point grease tip like: https://images.app.goo.gl/g1EmGNccvh1DryuT7

Green waterproof tractor grease, I use it on everything
Thanks Joe ..It seem there are a few different Green water proof grease options .
What brand do you use ...is it petroleum based or full synthetic?

Do you use this on the sway bar bushings as well?

Other than sway bar bushings and CV joints I have always used Bel Ray blue waterproof grease. Is the Green better or just a different option?

When I talked with Todd Keller he said he ships them with Lucas red tacky. He also said many people use Molly CV grease and it works well. RCV axles recommends Molly cv grease in their ball joints . Any reason not to use Molly in the ball joints ?

Thank you
 
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