Can you put the jack on a spacer like trailer level squares or wood bigger then a 2X4 so you can use the totally lift capacity of the jack? Have looked at that jack and though it would let high enough on the trail to change tires.

 

Unfortunately not. It will barely fit under the frame of the car on its lowest setting. So, I can't shim it up on the base. I hope there's a way, this was a pricey jack

 

That's a trail jack for emergencies only. Go get a floor jack.

 

I realize that, but I don't have a floor jack yet. This was a test run and I cant get my car up enough to pull a wheel... that's why I am on here asking for advice. Can't bring a floor jack on the trail

 

Floor jack will not do it without two 3x3 blocks on the pad. I would use that jack if I had it. Always put jack stands under a machine for safety.

 

Then put in under the A arm close to the tire as it will fit.

 

I have the same jack. Ideally you'll put it under the trailing arm or a-arms to lift a single wheel off the ground. Use blocks of wood under it to raise it up before extending it. Nifty little trail jack. Expect to only get one use out out of a cartridge.

 

Thanks for this....I just put it under my a-arm ( wont fit under trailing arm) and got it to lift up off ground enough to get tire off. Like I said, this is mainly a trial run for use on trail. Will get proper garage jack soon.

Tried to do a lift in the front but ran into same issue. Got it barely under my front a-arm, but jack would not get me off the ground. Can I somehow tie my suspension so it wont extend when car raises or is that a bad idea?

 

They make an air hose adapter for it to use at home with air compressor or on trail with 12v air compressor.

 

I would NEVER use that jack for home use, it is way too unstable. It works fine for trail emergencies only.

 

million dollar trail jack, and dont have a $89 harbour freight floor jack lol

 

Those little $89 jacks are totally worthless. Not near enough travel to be useable. Now go up to the several hundred $$ and can get something useable. Best is a good quality floor jack with an extension under the jack pad.

 

Guess I would have to have one to play with. Would like to have it for when need to work on a machine away from house. Now it is jack, safety stands, spacer under jack, lift again to get wheels off ground. I think it could use a bigger foot print on the ground. Bolted to larger piece of metal.

 

I have a UTV high lift for the trail. Floor Jack for home.

 

I think that you should reconsider your pro eagle if it can’t jack the rzr up. That is crazy.

I have used many times, and currently use a highlift UTV jack with great success. Can also use for clamp, spreader or winch in emergencies.

 

Good to use at home, for a variety of tasks.

Amazon.com

For certain tasks, its nice to either just use the ramps if youre not taking tires off, or if you are taking a tire off, you drive up on the ramp and then get the jack under the A- arm or trailing Arm, if you dont have a low profile floor jack.

 

get a sizzor jack , 20 bucks at home depot , works at home or on the trail , or 55 bucks at rockey mountain atv , and it includes a mount for it on the car .

 

damn guys... the OP asked a question and most of what he's gotten is a lesson on how to google floor jacks. I agree using that jack is not ideal, but how about we help the OP instead of criticizing. we all started somewhere.

You can use a ratchet strap to tie up the control arm, but take very good care here... a bad strap or bad placement can cause severe injury or worse if the strap breaks. get the strap setup, crank it down tight, then lift the car just little and make sure the strap is holding.

If it is id pull the wheel/tire off. hopefully you have some scrap lumber, bricks, cinder blocks etc to put under the ball joint or rotor, lower the car back down onto the blocks. drill your hole, then put everything back.

 

If you do not have enough room to shim the jack higher you can use a ratchet strap to tie the suspension up to keep it from extending as you jack it up. If you go down this route use a high quality preferably 2 inch strap to tie that up there will be allot of sprung tension so be very confident your tie points are solid and will not shift.

 

People recommending scissor jacks should try them on THIS car. The scissor jack is not really usable on the Pro A-arm. Works fine on the trailing arm. And I don’t know how you could use a high lifter jack on this car. Floor jacks are fine for shop use, with a stack of blocks so not ideal, but not practical for in the wild.

 

You can see there is nowhere to place a jack under the a-arm

 

I did not mean to be a debbie downer to the O.P. Sorry about not adding more detail to my post. I do like your jack because it is awesome. I agree you can strap up the suspension, but what if you need to jack up and work on the suspension? Example would be replacing front axle on the trail, a-arm etc. I think on the trail you should have a jack that will lift the RZR off the ground. Yes I know you can winch to another car, etc. I chose the high lift UTV version and have had or tried them all. (Well not the Co2 version you have)..

I just jacked up a rzr the other day for a guy and helped him swap axles.

Helped another straighten radius rods by using as a spreader so he could drive back to camp.

@shilo020
I would put a high lift jack in the upper loop on the front bumper. 10 seconds both wheels would be hanging in the air. You can also buy all kinds of hooks and such for them. Can hook into frame, wheel and etc. I am telling you guys.... a high lift jack of some form or other, has saved my butt many times over the years off-roading. That is why I always recommend them. Yes they are heavier, but I plan to loose 20 lbs. to offset the additional weight!

Just my humble opinion.

 

I did not mean to be a debbie downer to the O.P. Sorry about not adding more detail to my post. I do like your jack because it is awesome. I agree you can strap up the suspension, but what if you need to jack up and work on the suspension? Example would be replacing front axle on the trail, a-arm etc. I think on the trail you should have a jack that will lift the RZR off the ground. Yes I know you can winch to another car, etc. I chose the high lift UTV version and have had or tried them all. (Well not the Co2 version you have)..

I just jacked up a rzr the other day for a guy and helped him swap axles.

Helped another straighten radius rods by using as a spreader so he could drive back to camp.

@shilo020
I would put a high lift jack in the upper loop on the front bumper. 10 seconds both wheels would be hanging in the air. You can also buy all kinds of hooks and such for them. Can hook into frame, wheel and etc. I am telling you guys.... a high lift jack of some form or other, has saved my butt many times over the years off-roading. That is why I always recommend them. Yes they are heavier, but I plan to loose 20 lbs. to offset the additional weight!

Just my humble opinion.

How long is your high lift 46" or ?

 

Hooking to front bumper would have been a good idea if I hadn’t hung my lights there

 

Bummer.

 

42” was the right fit for my machine. Mounted under rear window.

 

I cut a 4x4 about 6" shorter than the distance between the ball joints, cut an angle on each end to fit up against the lower control arm, you could cut a slot in the ends so the a-arm could fit down in it

 

I want to make something like that. Do you have a picture?

 

Jack it as high as you can, block it at that height, release the jack, lower the jack and put another block under your jack and jack it up higher. Be sure your blocks are stable as this isn't the best method, but it will work with what you have. Like others have said, get a floor jack when you can. Makes life much easier and you can find them at decent prices. As I have learned in life, most the time it's about having the right tool for the job.

 

Im liking Smokermarks idea with the cut-to-fit 4x wood chunk.

hi lift jacks can be dangerous in their own right. Need some training , so you dont get the jack handle to smack you upside the head. Youtube or google it.

I have had a couple, still have one in the garage.... and mostly they got used for decoration rather than actual use. (42s/tons rock crawler and hunting truck)
Pretty much if there was a bottle jack , I would try to use it first before getting the hi lift out/dismounted.

 

The adapter should hook up on the distal cross member on the lower a-arm so it can’t slide up and have a down facing bar so the jack can’t slide on the adapter. This would work for bottle and scissor jack. And actually floor jacks too.

 

Huge weight difference in the jacks too. Hi-lift 36” UTV is 30 lbs. My prize aluminum scissor jack out of a ‘87 Maxima is less than 5 lbs.

 

True on huge weight differences. I am still sold it is worth it for all the flexibility of clamp, spreader, winch and jack. Like I said earlier, I plan to lose 20 pounds to offset the weight!! Haha

 

We need something like this. You engineers and fabricators make this better please.