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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Read on, There seems to be some, only some big bores that are seeping or leaking coolant, please read the following to correct this problem, also yes the copper gasket that comes with the big bores can be reused in an emergency, but it is always rec amended to replace it, specially on a boosted system , but be very careful to get it clean and use some scotch bright and then recoat with copper kote ,let itdry at least 1 hour before reassembling it you might even want to use a second quote on it that would be encouraged .

Here is a very important thing not to overlook, Stop: before removing the head bolts for whatever reason , we have found the following to work out very well, clamp off the cooling system on the water pump side and on the t-stat side with radiator clamp tool, then with a wet and dry vacumn attach the suction to the water pump side turn on the vacumn and remove the t-stat housing to allow all of the fluid in the engine to be removed, make sure all fluid is extracted before removing the head bolts! Why? Because the coolant will find its way down to the lowest point of the motor and you will encounter hydro lock when trying to reinstall the bolts from the existing fluid, this will cause you not to have the correct torque on the bolts and cause leaks!

If you don’t have a wet & dry vacumn then you need to make sure you get the coolant remove from the engine prior to removing the head bolts!

The next thing, with the big bore and the copper gasket you need to torque it down to 59 FT LBS : I know the book states 43+ or - 3 and then a ¼ turn but with the copper gasket it needs a little more also if your are running a boosted system this is a must! Follow the tightening sequence found in the manual just substitute the torque to 59 FT LBS make sure you are using a good torque wrench or you will else strip the threads or not get them tight enough. And if there is any coolant in the threads you could also strip them you need to check them with a q tip or something that will reach down into the bolt threads to check and see if it is dry this is very important, we have tested this and found it to fix all the leaks we had encountered. If you need any other help you can always contact us via email [email protected] or use our 800 number listed on the web site , good luck and happy trails.

Also make sure you discard all of the coolant if any is remaining and dispose of it, it can cause damage or kill pets if they can get to it.
 

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I have dumb question but why don't you blow out the bolt holes with compressed air? I am not trying to be a smart a$$ I have never worked on my Polaris engine but I have worked on many other engines and that can be a problem when the head bolts go into blind holes.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That's not a dumb question, it makes sense, you could blow out the bolt holes, the reason we had described to do it by vacuuming it out, was to avoid getting coolant down in the crank etc, but one could make sure at minim that they do blow out the bolt holes and change the oil when done anyway, we always recamend to change the oil when removing the cylinder and head. thanks for the reply
 

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Guys, I have found after putting in the aluminum flakes radiator stop leak, the base gasket does NOT leak anymore. I think it has also fixed the head gasket from leaking into the cylinder ater it cools. I have put about 4 hours of HARD riding in 95 degree weather on it now. Just thought I would let you know if anyone else wants to try it.
 
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