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Is there any affect on warranty claims or anything like that? Or is the quality just that much better
 

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I’m a fan of Polaris belts, myself. I’ve had little to no belt trouble out of any Polaris machine I’ve owned, which has been several, starting back in 2008 with the original 800 RZR. All I’ve ever used is factory Polaris belts. Everybody’s opinion and results vary. I think belt life has a lot to do with how the machine is being used and treated, and a lot less about what name is on the belt. Just my .02
 
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I use Hunter Works HD belts. But I agree with HS it is how you treat your machine on belt life.
 

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There has been a reason for me, they simply last longer and hold up better than anything else I've ran. As far as warranty goes, they're probably not going to warranty belts or clutches anyway, so I wouldn't be too concerned with it.
 

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1200 miles on HW thick Gen1 belt last year towing and constant use. Still serviceable, but I replaced with Gen 2 thick belt and white washer for this year. Zero low speed noise and smooth engagement. High speed whistle, but going away as belt wears in. I did loose some top speed, but I don't drive it 80+ anyway. HW does offer standard belt for that.

No matter what belt you use, clean clutch/belt often and use rollers on secondary. If you can make it last a year or 1000 miles, I would call that successful and keep using that belt.
 

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I hear good things about the hunter works but am hesitant to install a washer in the primary just to run it, so my advice is OEM.
 

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Must run washer on new HW works Belts!!!!
New belts are designed shorter on purpose. Must run washer. Designed to prevent low speed whistle all seem to have stock. Without it belt will over travel and do damage while eating itself. Updated belts come with the washer for this reason. Not the same belts you bought months or year ago. Do your homework... Save the headaches and enjoy
 

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I hear good things about the hunter works but am hesitant to install a washer in the primary just to run it, so my advice is OEM.
I understand, not everyone wants to do anything extra. So that is good advice for like minded folks. I was hesitant myself, but the need for durability after eating two OEM belts first 75+ miles was enough dollars for me to try anything other than another blow me fast OEM belt. You will get hundreds of different views on this. Same can be said for anything from oil filters, storage boxes and tires. OEM is not bad. Kinda shuts the door on options if that's your limit.
 

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Must run washer on new HW works Belts!!!!
New belts are designed shorter on purpose. Must run washer. Designed to prevent low speed whistle all seem to have stock. Without it belt will over travel and do damage while eating itself. Updated belts come with the washer for this reason. Not the same belts you bought months or year ago. Do your homework... Save the headaches and enjoy
The 1K belts come with the washer, not the Turbo. He does sell a separate washer for the turbo, but it is not included, nor required.

His NA belts seem to work good for a lot of people, I wouldn’t trust his turbo belt as far as I can throw it tho, and that’s about as far as mine made it.
 

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I’m an oem fan myself. 1150 miles on my original. All higher speed trails. 40-70mph. Mix of sand hard pack. No mud or dunes. But lots of hard acceleration out of corners. Then hard on the breaks 😂
 

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OEM belts seem to be worth it, I’m 1000 miles with no issues on a 19 xpt4. Including 5 weekends at the dunes with cheap heavy paddles! Unfortunately my spare is not a OEM
 

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I understand, not everyone wants to do anything extra. So that is good advice for like minded folks. I was hesitant myself, but the need for durability after eating two OEM belts first 75+ miles was enough dollars for me to try anything other than another blow me fast OEM belt. You will get hundreds of different views on this. Same can be said for anything from oil filters, storage boxes and tires. OEM is not bad. Kinda shuts the door on options if that's your limit.
It’s not about doing extra. It’s about interchangeability. Do I want to commit to pulling the plate on the primary if I switch brands on a belt though? Nope. No other manufacturers require it. Might be better to manufacture the belt to not require the washer and I would definitely give it a try.

by the way, it took a lot of tinkering to finally get my SLP clutch sprung and weighted the way I like it. Really makes me hesitant to pop it open and space the primary spring one bit.
 

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No argument, Tuning is a PITA! That changes everything and is not applicable to the question once you go down that road. Everything from wts, springs and helix is a never ending hunt. Changing belt to a different brand or even a new verses older belt all come into play and throw off what you felt was right yesterday once you start tuning. Add temps and elevation change and you will be pulling your hair out and dreaming about it every night. I got off that road years ago on sleds, but have considered trying again recently on my TRE to get a little more pull on top.

If you had the clutch apart for tuning it seems strange to hesitate on the washer. I mean, after the first time you take the clutch apart it's a 10 minute job with cover off to add or remove the washer. 15 min if you are cleaning the clutch and checking every bolt 3 time. It's the easiest part on the clutch I have ever touched. In your situation with tuning you should stick to any one belt and not change brands or part numbers. Get that much of the worry off your plate.

Having the washer does not require removal to use any other belt. It just wont perform at it's max travel. So any spare belt from your buddy gets your ride done and back to camp if you have a belt failure without touching the washer.
 

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I have nothing against the OEM belt other than the price. I'am on my 3rd Hunterworks belt on my turbo s. 3500 on the first 4000 2nd, and working on 3rd. For me they have held up great.
 
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