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Hey guys, I just got my C&D clutch and going to install it tomorrow. Any of you guys who already installed one, do you have any advice on what to do, or what not to do. I have read the posts, and it sounds kinda straight forward. But I would like to hear any hints or advice if you all have it. Thanks in advance and will post once it is installed.
 

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Make sure you use a Scotch bright pad and scrub the Silicone off any new parts and blow the dust off the old stuff! Clean is mean;) Also wash the Belt in soap and water and let dry!
 

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I found when removing the nut non both the crank and the clutch you can use an impact wrench but when reinstalling them, no impact. Just a ratchet maybe 25-30 ft lbs. The nuts are real soft I stripped one of them.
 

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I found when removing the nut non both the crank and the clutch you can use an impact wrench but when reinstalling them, no impact. Just a ratchet maybe 25-30 ft lbs. The nuts are real soft I stripped one of them.
The primary clutch bolt on the crankshaft is 40 ft. lbs.
The secondary bolt on the transmission is 17 ft. lbs.
 

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Well I tried to post earlier today but my computor was being bitchy. I figure you got it done so I won't go through it all. but for others there are some videos on youtube for the cvt/clutch and also buggypartsnw under BPNWinfo has some good articels on cvt and clutches. I've been getting a lot of info from other places than 170 owners. The motor in our little buggy is a spin off of the GY6, I'm trying some gy6 hp electric parts and well see what happens. I will report back!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well I got the clutch installed. Pretty straight forward. Didn't have to remove fuel tank. Me and a buddy worked on it together and it wasn't that bad at all. Only problem we ran into was after it was installed and ALL back together, it would grind going into forward and reverse. Would stall as soon as you gave it any throttle. Called Colby at C&D racing (very cool guy) he trouble shot it for me and said that is sounded like the clutch was already engaged. So we had to take it ALL apart again and take the clutch back out and put a little more grease on the pins and that was the problem. Clutch now engaged and it works great. No more grinding or stalling.
All in all this is a pretty easy instal, just time consuming. If you do install one of these clutches, I highly recommend once the clutch is installed, put the rear on jack stands or floor jack...leave the cover off and start the engine and put it in gear and give it throttle and watch so see if the belt and clutch engage befor putting it all back together. Going to test it out this weekend at Sand Mountain NV and will report back.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Still waiting for the final test. I got the clutch installed, but did not see the results that I was hoping for. Called Colby at C&D racing and told me that it is my aftermarket intake robbing me of intake. He says the stock recalled air intake actually works way better than the aftermarket ones! So I am still waiting for Polaris on my recalled airbox. So I will post once I get it. Also Colby said to run the stock jets 100 main and goto a 35 pilot jet with the stock air intake then I will see the results I was hoping for..... I will keep ya posted.....2 months and still no parts from Polaris...go figure!!!
 

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Sorry about dragging up another old thread, but were you guys right about needing a impact gun to get the nuts off the variable and clutch. My battery powered unit wouldn't do it so I had to borrow a buddy's compressor and his impact wrench.

Did any of you have any problems with the pins/rollers sticking in the helix grooves? Mine are sticking about a third of the way up (and yes I greased them). I didn't want to force things or file them down without checking with someone that has already done it. I also plan on calling the supplier in the morning.

I also noticed that the new red spring is a lot shorter than the stock spring - is this normal?

Thanks!
 
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