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That’s my plan is to make a hood scoop. Just got to get around to doing it. Actually gonna take the original plastic piece and form aluminum around it basically while cutting out the back middle piece of the plastic hood. Then cutting out the lower plastic piece and hope then that cool air will flow down into and try and compensate for all the hot air coming from the radiator. I’ll post pics when it’s done.
 

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That’s my plan is to make a hood scoop. Just got to get around to doing it. Actually gonna take the original plastic piece and form aluminum around it basically while cutting out the back middle piece of the plastic hood. Then cutting out the lower plastic piece and hope then that cool air will flow down into and try and compensate for all the hot air coming from the radiator. I’ll post pics when it’s done.
Nice, I was thinking Long the same lines but maybe forming a new one out of fiberglass using the stock hood as a mold,,,,
 

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  1. will do, It was actually cold here this weekend so I postponed attacking the heat issue. Will surely post pics if I go for making a scoop.
 

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I have wrapped all of my lines with 1/2" neoprene and that helps a lot with the radiating heat when not moving. However stopping the air flow from the front will help the most. My Shock Therapy gets here tomorrow and I'm planning on working on a mock-up to deflect the air or block off the "funnel" that leads into the cab, maybe both. Bring on the cardboard and duct-tape. I plan to use a high powered carpet fan and shoot it through the radiator so I can test the air flow without having to put all the shocks back on and go screaming down the road.

I'll be very interested in that hood scoop if it works with the windshield like @Shhhway mentioned. Kinda wish they had flat black. The carbon is cool but might be too cool for me :)
 

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I have wrapped all of my lines with 1/2" neoprene and that helps a lot with the radiating heat when not moving. However stopping the air flow from the front will help the most. My Shock Therapy gets here tomorrow and I'm planning on working on a mock-up to deflect the air or block off the "funnel" that leads into the cab, maybe both. Bring on the cardboard and duct-tape. I plan to use a high powered carpet fan and shoot it through the radiator so I can test the air flow without having to put all the shocks back on and go screaming down the road.

I'll be very interested in that hood scoop if it works with the windshield like @Shhhway mentioned. Kinda wish they had flat black. The carbon is cool but might be too cool for me :)
Agreed on all points. I currently have duct tape blocking most of the tunnel and it is pretty stupid how much it is helping,,,, a lot!
 

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Agreed on all points. I currently have duct tape blocking most of the tunnel and it is pretty stupid how much it is helping,,,, a lot!
Question for you guys - When I was installing a bunch of accessories on my pxp 4 I ran a bunch of wires up against those radiator lines. Do you think the heat from the lines is enough to melt those or mess them up somehow? If so I may need to reroute some shit. Let me know your thoughts. Thanks!
 

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Question for you guys - When I was installing a bunch of accessories on my pxp 4 I ran a bunch of wires up against those radiator lines. Do you think the heat from the lines is enough to melt those or mess them up somehow? If so I may need to reroute some shit. Let me know your thoughts. Thanks!
I think you are fine, I also have run wires through the tunnel and would not expect it to be an issue. I think you are good although using some type of casing would be recommended
 

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Question for you guys - When I was installing a bunch of accessories on my pxp 4 I ran a bunch of wires up against those radiator lines. Do you think the heat from the lines is enough to melt those or mess them up somehow? If so I may need to reroute some shit. Let me know your thoughts. Thanks!
It wouldn't ever hurt the next time you're in there to use lots of zip-ties and hug the wiring harness already installed. I'm a freak about nothing ever moving so I estimate the weight of my zip-ties in my Pro to be about 15 lbs. haha

I actually exchanged the wiring harness on some installs with 12 AWG wire. I think most products only require 18 AWG but why not go HUGE. Also, this allows me to power two lights on the same run and not overwhelm the wire or build too much heat. At least that is what I'm hoping haha - I'm no electrician. I realize those 2 lights would then be on the same rocker.

The wire that I got is rated for burial so I'm hoping it holds up to the crazy conditions that we find ourselves in. WIRE

Because I absolutely hate pulling the interior of the RZR out I've ran extra wire to the back of the RZR and then up inside the cage on both sides. This way I don't have to run it later. Hoping this saves time in the future.
 

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It wouldn't ever hurt the next time you're in there to use lots of zip-ties and hug the wiring harness already installed. I'm a freak about nothing ever moving so I estimate the weight of my zip-ties in my Pro to be about 15 lbs. haha

I actually exchanged the wiring harness on some installs with 12 AWG wire. I think most products only require 18 AWG but why not go HUGE. Also, this allows me to power two lights on the same run and not overwhelm the wire or build too much heat. At least that is what I'm hoping haha - I'm no electrician. I realize those 2 lights would then be on the same rocker.

The wire that I got is rated for burial so I'm hoping it holds up to the crazy conditions that we find ourselves in. WIRE

Because I absolutely hate pulling the interior of the RZR out I've ran extra wire to the back of the RZR and then up inside the cage on both sides. This way I don't have to run it later. Hoping this saves time in the future.
Too funny! Smart though, I wish I would have run additional wires as well but I think I may when I go in to address the heat. I hate pulling the console, total pain in the butt!
 

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Too funny! Smart though, I wish I would have run additional wires as well but I think I may when I go in to address the heat. I hate pulling the console, total pain in the butt!
There are a few screws that I intentionally leave out when putting the console back. The second time around went really fast. The part that I'm hating now is removing the front seats because of the seatbelts. I'm not smart and just remove the bolt. I take the belt out of the locks and that will make any crazy person curse. Next time though I'll be removing the bolts. I think this would only be an issue if you have the 6-point harness since it goes through the seat. BUT, with the seat completely out the console is not very bad after the third time.
 

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well maybe I'll tackle the console tomorrow, I got side tracked and installed the underglow kit today :rolleyes:
 

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well maybe I'll tackle the console tomorrow, I got side tracked and installed the underglow kit today :rolleyes:
Haha - Yeah I get side tracked all the time too. Shipping says the springs are due in on Wednesday now. Guess it gives me time to find another shinny object to focus my time on ha
 

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I have wrapped all of my lines with 1/2" neoprene and that helps a lot with the radiating heat when not moving. However stopping the air flow from the front will help the most. My Shock Therapy gets here tomorrow and I'm planning on working on a mock-up to deflect the air or block off the "funnel" that leads into the cab, maybe both. Bring on the cardboard and duct-tape. I plan to use a high powered carpet fan and shoot it through the radiator so I can test the air flow without having to put all the shocks back on and go screaming down the road.

I'll be very interested in that hood scoop if it works with the windshield like @Shhhway mentioned. Kinda wish they had flat black. The carbon is cool but might be too cool for me :)
got any pics? i want to wrap mine too. what materials did you use? Thanks!
 

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got any pics? i want to wrap mine too. what materials did you use? Thanks!
Sadly I have no pics however I bought 3 rolls of this Neoprene and stuffed the entire center console with it. Cut it into strips of course. I also put a layer on the back wall that you remove to get to the air box behind the rear seats. I simply used push darts to attached them. I went too short for the darts. These were poor quality but got the job done - just look for longer ones. They would be better off 50% longer. I tried to find nice Polaris ones but obviously was tired and didn't care anymore.
 

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Of all the insulation that I've done this placement was the most noticeable. No more do my pop cans or drinks get hot. I cut the piece of neoprene down to 12" X 4" and tucked it in. There is enough room to go up the forward side without getting in the way. I still prefer using an insulated water bottle or a yeti to keep a pop can cold because I like my drinks ice cold. However, this small project worked wonders for the drinks that are not insulated.

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