I've seen a lot of posts asking how to chop cages. So I thought I would start a thread with some instructions and link people to the info and pic's already on the forum. If you know of any other threads with good info or pic's of the process, link them here. I figured out how to do this using some of the photo's from Dr.Chop threads, though they where light on explanations. So I've tried to pass on what I have learned to make it easier for those wanting to chop their own.
Here's some instructions. I don't have any pictures from when I did it, but if you use these instructions and the pictures from the Dr. Chop thread you'll be able to figure it out. I'm assuming that this is for someone with a little know how and access to some tools. Obviously it would be a lot quicker and easier if you had access to various fab shop tools, but I'm assuming you don't or you wouldn't need instructions. Good luck.
Here's a couple pictures of mine chopped
Things you'll need:
1. 5' Tubing (1-1/2" if I remember correctly) that'll just fit inside the stock cage
tubing(you only need about 1' if you go w/option 2)
2. masking tape
3. sawzall or angle grinder with zip disc & grinding wheel
4. come-a-long, porta power or bottle jack that will work horizontally
5. welder
6. sanding wheel of some kind
7. flat black paint to match the cage.
8. a friend
Step 1.
Use the masking tape to mark the cage where you cuts will be made, the tape allows you to make straight cuts and act as a guide. Option 1: For me I simply cut the cage just above the cross bar and just below the angle braces for the cross bar. Option 2: You can also cut below the angle braces and cut out the section where the factory seat belt braces are. The second option is a little easier but then you can't use the factory belts. Once the cuts are made you can loosen off slightly the front and top cage bolts. This will allow you to drop the back of the cage down. If you chop more than 4.5-5" you may need to grind the tabs off the front cage bungs. You'll need to take off the front peice of the cage to do this. Check the height and make sure it's good for you before you cut too much out. This is where the friend is helpful. You can take out more if you like but make sure there's room for your head and a helmet.
Step 2.
Sand a couple of inches above and below the cut to bare metal. Use grinding wheel to bevel the edges (helps with weld later). Cut 2x 4+" peices of tubing. Slide into the cage tubing half way and tack weld into place.
Step 3.
Now the hard part and where you really need the friend, using the porta power to spread the upper tubes of the cage apart. You will need to put a weld or something so the porta power doesn't slip off the two upper tubes. You can also use a come-a-long to pull the two lower tubes together (if you didn't remove the cross bar and made your cuts below the angle braces, use the come-along way). Get the upper and lower tubes together over the inserts you tack welded in place. Now back away and make sure your cage looks straight. If everthing looks good you can now weld them together. The beveled edges give the weld more contact surface and makes for less clean up afterwards.
Step 4.
Clean up your welds either with the sanding wheel or grinder.
Step 5.
[This step is not needed if you did not cut out the cross bar in step 1.] Cut a fish mouth or curve into one end of the remaining tubing that will nicely butt up against the side where you just welded. If you don't have a tubing notcher, this can be done with a grinder. Remember that your side tube on the cage is not straight up and down, so the upper side of the notch will be deeper than the bottom. Make sure that the new cross tube fits nicely against the side tube and is level. Now messure very carefully the tube length so that when notched it will fit tight against the other side of the cage when level and then notch it the same way as the other side. Do not take too much off at a time. It is better to test fit several times than to end up with too short a tube. Once your happy with the fit, bevel the edges. Tack weld into place. Check everthing again, if your happy with it finish the welds.
Step 6.
Clean up all surfaces with sanding wheel or grinder and then paint once the metal has cooled.
Don't forget to cover your RZR with something flame retardant when welding!
Here's the original thread where I gave the above instructions on how to pull off a chop.
The above instruction have been revised however. http://www.rzrforums.net/general-rzr-discussion/54762-chop-top-post.html
Another thread with some basic instructions. http://www.rzrforums.net/roll-cages-safety-equipment/48254-cage-chopping-question.html
This one has great photo's and some instruction on doing a RZR4. http://www.rzrforums.net/general-rzr-discussion/60955-chopping-rzr-4-cage-tomorrow-any-advice-2.html
Some more good photo's chopping an S. http://www.rzrforums.net/rzr-s-specific-discussion/24491-went-see-dr-chop-today.html
Good write up w/pic's. http://www.rzrforums.net/rzr-xp-4-900-specific-discussion/83873-cage-chop.html
Here's some instructions. I don't have any pictures from when I did it, but if you use these instructions and the pictures from the Dr. Chop thread you'll be able to figure it out. I'm assuming that this is for someone with a little know how and access to some tools. Obviously it would be a lot quicker and easier if you had access to various fab shop tools, but I'm assuming you don't or you wouldn't need instructions. Good luck.
Here's a couple pictures of mine chopped
Things you'll need:
1. 5' Tubing (1-1/2" if I remember correctly) that'll just fit inside the stock cage
tubing(you only need about 1' if you go w/option 2)
2. masking tape
3. sawzall or angle grinder with zip disc & grinding wheel
4. come-a-long, porta power or bottle jack that will work horizontally
5. welder
6. sanding wheel of some kind
7. flat black paint to match the cage.
8. a friend
Step 1.
Use the masking tape to mark the cage where you cuts will be made, the tape allows you to make straight cuts and act as a guide. Option 1: For me I simply cut the cage just above the cross bar and just below the angle braces for the cross bar. Option 2: You can also cut below the angle braces and cut out the section where the factory seat belt braces are. The second option is a little easier but then you can't use the factory belts. Once the cuts are made you can loosen off slightly the front and top cage bolts. This will allow you to drop the back of the cage down. If you chop more than 4.5-5" you may need to grind the tabs off the front cage bungs. You'll need to take off the front peice of the cage to do this. Check the height and make sure it's good for you before you cut too much out. This is where the friend is helpful. You can take out more if you like but make sure there's room for your head and a helmet.
Step 2.
Sand a couple of inches above and below the cut to bare metal. Use grinding wheel to bevel the edges (helps with weld later). Cut 2x 4+" peices of tubing. Slide into the cage tubing half way and tack weld into place.
Step 3.
Now the hard part and where you really need the friend, using the porta power to spread the upper tubes of the cage apart. You will need to put a weld or something so the porta power doesn't slip off the two upper tubes. You can also use a come-a-long to pull the two lower tubes together (if you didn't remove the cross bar and made your cuts below the angle braces, use the come-along way). Get the upper and lower tubes together over the inserts you tack welded in place. Now back away and make sure your cage looks straight. If everthing looks good you can now weld them together. The beveled edges give the weld more contact surface and makes for less clean up afterwards.
Step 4.
Clean up your welds either with the sanding wheel or grinder.
Step 5.
[This step is not needed if you did not cut out the cross bar in step 1.] Cut a fish mouth or curve into one end of the remaining tubing that will nicely butt up against the side where you just welded. If you don't have a tubing notcher, this can be done with a grinder. Remember that your side tube on the cage is not straight up and down, so the upper side of the notch will be deeper than the bottom. Make sure that the new cross tube fits nicely against the side tube and is level. Now messure very carefully the tube length so that when notched it will fit tight against the other side of the cage when level and then notch it the same way as the other side. Do not take too much off at a time. It is better to test fit several times than to end up with too short a tube. Once your happy with the fit, bevel the edges. Tack weld into place. Check everthing again, if your happy with it finish the welds.
Step 6.
Clean up all surfaces with sanding wheel or grinder and then paint once the metal has cooled.
Don't forget to cover your RZR with something flame retardant when welding!
Here's the original thread where I gave the above instructions on how to pull off a chop.
The above instruction have been revised however. http://www.rzrforums.net/general-rzr-discussion/54762-chop-top-post.html
Another thread with some basic instructions. http://www.rzrforums.net/roll-cages-safety-equipment/48254-cage-chopping-question.html
This one has great photo's and some instruction on doing a RZR4. http://www.rzrforums.net/general-rzr-discussion/60955-chopping-rzr-4-cage-tomorrow-any-advice-2.html
Some more good photo's chopping an S. http://www.rzrforums.net/rzr-s-specific-discussion/24491-went-see-dr-chop-today.html
Good write up w/pic's. http://www.rzrforums.net/rzr-xp-4-900-specific-discussion/83873-cage-chop.html