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How to Chop Your Cage.

95K views 46 replies 25 participants last post by  Dragboat 
#1 · (Edited)
I've seen a lot of posts asking how to chop cages. So I thought I would start a thread with some instructions and link people to the info and pic's already on the forum. If you know of any other threads with good info or pic's of the process, link them here. I figured out how to do this using some of the photo's from Dr.Chop threads, though they where light on explanations. So I've tried to pass on what I have learned to make it easier for those wanting to chop their own.

Here's some instructions. I don't have any pictures from when I did it, but if you use these instructions and the pictures from the Dr. Chop thread you'll be able to figure it out. I'm assuming that this is for someone with a little know how and access to some tools. Obviously it would be a lot quicker and easier if you had access to various fab shop tools, but I'm assuming you don't or you wouldn't need instructions. Good luck.

Here's a couple pictures of mine chopped








Things you'll need:
1. 5' Tubing (1-1/2" if I remember correctly) that'll just fit inside the stock cage
tubing(you only need about 1' if you go w/option 2)
2. masking tape
3. sawzall or angle grinder with zip disc & grinding wheel
4. come-a-long, porta power or bottle jack that will work horizontally
5. welder
6. sanding wheel of some kind
7. flat black paint to match the cage.
8. a friend

Step 1.
Use the masking tape to mark the cage where you cuts will be made, the tape allows you to make straight cuts and act as a guide. Option 1: For me I simply cut the cage just above the cross bar and just below the angle braces for the cross bar. Option 2: You can also cut below the angle braces and cut out the section where the factory seat belt braces are. The second option is a little easier but then you can't use the factory belts. Once the cuts are made you can loosen off slightly the front and top cage bolts. This will allow you to drop the back of the cage down. If you chop more than 4.5-5" you may need to grind the tabs off the front cage bungs. You'll need to take off the front peice of the cage to do this. Check the height and make sure it's good for you before you cut too much out. This is where the friend is helpful. You can take out more if you like but make sure there's room for your head and a helmet.

Step 2.
Sand a couple of inches above and below the cut to bare metal. Use grinding wheel to bevel the edges (helps with weld later). Cut 2x 4+" peices of tubing. Slide into the cage tubing half way and tack weld into place.

Step 3.
Now the hard part and where you really need the friend, using the porta power to spread the upper tubes of the cage apart. You will need to put a weld or something so the porta power doesn't slip off the two upper tubes. You can also use a come-a-long to pull the two lower tubes together (if you didn't remove the cross bar and made your cuts below the angle braces, use the come-along way). Get the upper and lower tubes together over the inserts you tack welded in place. Now back away and make sure your cage looks straight. If everthing looks good you can now weld them together. The beveled edges give the weld more contact surface and makes for less clean up afterwards.

Step 4.
Clean up your welds either with the sanding wheel or grinder.

Step 5.
[This step is not needed if you did not cut out the cross bar in step 1.] Cut a fish mouth or curve into one end of the remaining tubing that will nicely butt up against the side where you just welded. If you don't have a tubing notcher, this can be done with a grinder. Remember that your side tube on the cage is not straight up and down, so the upper side of the notch will be deeper than the bottom. Make sure that the new cross tube fits nicely against the side tube and is level. Now messure very carefully the tube length so that when notched it will fit tight against the other side of the cage when level and then notch it the same way as the other side. Do not take too much off at a time. It is better to test fit several times than to end up with too short a tube. Once your happy with the fit, bevel the edges. Tack weld into place. Check everthing again, if your happy with it finish the welds.

Step 6.
Clean up all surfaces with sanding wheel or grinder and then paint once the metal has cooled.

Don't forget to cover your RZR with something flame retardant when welding!


Here's the original thread where I gave the above instructions on how to pull off a chop.
The above instruction have been revised however. http://www.rzrforums.net/general-rzr-discussion/54762-chop-top-post.html

Another thread with some basic instructions. http://www.rzrforums.net/roll-cages-safety-equipment/48254-cage-chopping-question.html

This one has great photo's and some instruction on doing a RZR4. http://www.rzrforums.net/general-rzr-discussion/60955-chopping-rzr-4-cage-tomorrow-any-advice-2.html

Some more good photo's chopping an S. http://www.rzrforums.net/rzr-s-specific-discussion/24491-went-see-dr-chop-today.html

Good write up w/pic's. http://www.rzrforums.net/rzr-xp-4-900-specific-discussion/83873-cage-chop.html
 
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#8 ·
another question on doing a RZR4 after cutting the rear and the canter tube are you guys cutting the top tubes where they mount to the front or just flexing it down until it slides over the other 4 tubes placed inside the rear tubes?
 
#9 · (Edited)
You need to cut the 2 upper tubes where they meet up with the center bar. I think I had to cut off 1 1-2 inches off the 2 tubes.

250rah don't you live in the Phx area? If so I'm pretty sure I'm going to be chopping 2 rzr4 cages sometime in the next 2 weeks. You could come over and check it out first hand.
 
#10 · (Edited)
if you do it on a weekend let me know I am stationed in el centro ca but my family lives in wickenburg and we visit frequently. the 2 tubes you cut were the fron or rear tubes that met the center bar? how are the front tubes coming off the very front of the cage do they bend down or are they requiring them to be cut off the front>
Sorry if the questions seem dumb but I dont want to screw this up.
 
#11 ·
Sorry the ones you cut are the ones in between the front bar and center bar. I made my cuts right where they connect to the center bar.

Not sure what day I'll be doing the chops. I can get you some better pictures if you want. I plan on raising my front bar up a couple inches to allow better viewing for the dunes.
 
#14 · (Edited)
Just moved these instructions on chopping a 4 over from another thread. The credit for this goes to Familyman. http://www.rzrforums.net/members/familyman.html

Ok so I chopped my cage 4.5 inches last year. My dad and brother both recently bought rzr4's and needed to chop their cages too. We did them this last Saturday. We ended up cutting 6 inches out of the rear.

To start remove the seatbelts to get them out of the way. If you have the nets on then you'll want to remove the clips that are by the seatbelts. Unbolt the 4 bolts on the cage bungs above the front seats. You will take care of the windshield section last.

View attachment 38103 here you can see where we made the first cut. We measured out 6 inches. 1 3/4 inches above the bend and 4 1/4 below the bend. View attachment 38104

For the 2 center vertical bars we cut out 3 inches. 7/8" above the bend and 2 1/8 below the bend. You want to make all these cuts level so that they line back up afterwards.

When cut Iike this all the bars will line up perfectly when you lower it. No spreading necessary. Cut the 2 rear intrusion bars right below the upper horizontal. View attachment 38105
Once you've made these 6 cuts the rear section of cage can be lifted off. You'll want to grind down where the intrusion bars were welded to the horizontal bar. They will get welded on in a slightly different spot. Measure vertically 14 1/4 inches from the rear lower horizontal bar up. You'll want to cut those 2 intrusion bars at 14 1/4 high. Make these cuts completely level.

At this point take your sander or grinder with a flap disk on it and take the paint off around all the joints that will need to be welded up. measure where the intrusion bars will line up and take the paint off at that spot too.

To reattach the cage you will need. Some short pieces of 1 1/2 inch tubing. You will 6 pieces about 4 inches long. Insert each of these pieces into the 1 3/4 verticals. These will need to be tack welded in place as they don't fit tight. Only leave them sticking up about 3/4 of an inch. These sleeves will provide a good backer for the weld and allow you penetrate the larger tubing fully without blowing it out.

Set the rear section back on. You may need to trim these sleeves slightly to let the cage drop completely.

Once in place Make sure it is sitting level side to side and weld the 4 verticle tubes up. The intrusion bars will need to be tweaked slightly forward and pushed up tight to the horizontal bar. Weld them up. Here is what the rear to front will look like at that point. View attachment 38106

From here out I deviated from my chop. I never liked leaning the windshield hoop back more. So we cut the front upper bar just on the outside of the 2 front to back tubes. This allowed the windshield to stay vertical and rotate the upper section down to line up with the rear. Use your last 2 sleeves in thes joints. Before welding make sure to line up and bolt on the 2 cage bungs that you took apart at the beginning. View attachment 38122
Ididnt take a picture of this part till after we were done welding but by the above picture you should get the idea.

Finish welding all your joints up. Grind them down close then use a flap disk to get it nice and smooth. If you have a couple minor imperfections in your grinding you could bondo it so that it looks good for paint.

Now stand back and admire your good work. View attachment 38109 View attachment 38107 View attachment 38110 View attachment 38111

The factory hard top fits perfect after this and all the clamps line up exactly. There is still plenty of headroom in the rear seat for a full size adult. These cages that we chopped are going to get painted white before too long. The whole project takes about 3-4 hours depending if you have help or not. We added dash bars that UTV inc made for us as well to give a custom look and add some strength.
 
#22 ·
It won't be snug. Need to drill holes in the cage on both sides of the cut and make the 1 1/2" sleeves about 12" long. Then clamp the cage at the connection, butt weld @ the connection and plug weld the holes to tie the sleeves to the cage. Makes more sense when you're doing it.

sent from my giant Galaxy Note
 
#23 · (Edited)
This could be a silly question but I'll ask anyway; cause well, I haven't welded anything that's mattered in 20 years...
So, is there any reason why you wouldn't want to weld the holes first to hold the sleeve in place first?

Also, is the term for that rosette welds or do I have that confused with something else?

Thanks... if one of you 'experts' up here in New England wants to test on my cage; come on over... I've got a welder; some cuttin' tools and some cold Vodka (and beer)... and some good BBQ...
 
#28 ·
If I use option 2 method will a heavy duty ratchet strap work (10,000# rated). Also, if one tube moves and the other don't what is the cure for that?
Just getting prepared for problems I will have that no one else will.
Best guess, the ratchet strap should work. They should move evenly unless one side is weeker than the other, perhapse to some damage. some guys also cut the upper cross bars and spread them to ease the aligning of the bars and then reweld them with a sleeve. Check out a few of the links and deside which way would be best for you.
 
#30 ·
Thanks for this info. I absolutely love the way this looks and am seriously considering it. Just have to figure out if me and some buddies can tackle it, or if the local fab shop could do it. I have a couple of questions about chopping though. I don't have a roof or stereo yet, but plan on them in the future. I really like the EMP roof and the SSV works stereo with add on speakers. If I chop the cage, will I still be able to use either the roof or the stereo? Thanks for starting this thread and any help that is given.
 
#32 ·
Thanks for this info. I absolutely love the way this looks and am seriously considering it. Just have to figure out if me and some buddies can tackle it, or if the local fab shop could do it. I have a couple of questions about chopping though. I don't have a roof or stereo yet, but plan on them in the future. I really like the EMP roof and the SSV works stereo with add on speakers. If I chop the cage, will I still be able to use either the roof or the stereo? Thanks for starting this thread and any help that is given.
The way I chopped my cage, my stock Polaris roof still worked, not sure about th EMP? You might have to redill the mounting holes depending on the style of chop you choose to do. As for the stereo, after the chop head room might be an issue if you install a roof mounted stereo.
 
#33 ·
Brac, thanks for your response. I was thinking about an overhead stereo. How much chop do you think I could do and still use an overhead stereo? I am only thinking about 4", I just want to get rid of the horrible rake that Polaris put in the cage. I like the look of the cage when it is more level across the top. Thanks again.
 
#34 · (Edited)
Brac, thanks for your response. I was thinking about an overhead stereo. How much chop do you think I could do and still use an overhead stereo? I am only thinking about 4", I just want to get rid of the horrible rake that Polaris put in the cage. I like the look of the cage when it is more level across the top. Thanks again.

I don't know, there are not a lot of stereo installs up here as there's no desert. Mostly trail riding/hunting so no need for a stereo. I would find someone with the stereo you interested in and measure how far it hangs down below the cage. Then sit in the rzr with a helmet (so you'll have the option, depending on where and how you ride) and have some one meassure the distance between the helmet and bottom of the cage. The subtract the clearance for the stereo with a 1-2" minimum clearance between the stereo and the helmet.

Or you can go with an indash unit and speaker pods on the cage behind your head and then chop till your hearts content. Still a good idea to measure from top of your helmet to the bottom of the upper cage above your head and leave 1-2" clearance though.
 
#35 ·
Being that I have PoPo doors that mount/fit exactly to the front cage bungs, and the new cages have the slotted metal between the bung halves, I'm thinking the best way to chop my cage would be to grind off the welds from the attachment points at the top of the front hoop to allow them to rotate down without changing the angle of the front of the cage. Either that or grind out the welds from the bung to pipe at the bottom of the front hoop and then modify and re-weld to facilitate the chop without changing the door mounts, which would also retain proper fit of my roof that wraps down the vertical tubes of the front hoop.

I appreciate opinions/thoughts before I start hacking on my two week old 570!
 
#36 ·
Being that I have PoPo doors that mount/fit exactly to the front cage bungs, and the new cages have the slotted metal between the bung halves, I'm thinking the best way to chop my cage would be to grind off the welds from the attachment points at the top of the front hoop to allow them to rotate down without changing the angle of the front of the cage. Either that or grind out the welds from the bung to pipe at the bottom of the front hoop and then modify and re-weld to facilitate the chop without changing the door mounts, which would also retain proper fit of my roof that wraps down the vertical tubes of the front hoop.

I appreciate opinions/thoughts before I start hacking on my two week old 570!
The front pillars don't change at all. There is enough play in the joint to just lay the upper peice back a bit and then retighten, depending on how agressive of a chop you want to do.
 
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