you need a scope that can read mill sec its a pulse thing not a voltage...it can have volts and still not work

 

Why do you think it is the fuel injector? Is the AFR reading really lean?

 

Yes, the AFR goes to dashes while it's stumbling.

I was thinking a low wattage light bulb might tell me if voltage is being sent. Anyone know what voltage is actually supplied to an injector.

I tried 2 controllers with the same results. I've ordered a new injector but it would be nice to somehow tell if it's working.

I guess if the motor runs better it's working :doh:

 

it should have batt volts...but! dont know what sig their system uses it could be less but most use 12 v

 

I think you are on the right track...
The engine is obviously getting air from the turbo.
If it runs fine without boost it is getting spark.
So the third required ingredient, fuel, must be the missing link.

Are you running a mix of race fuel? The right mix?

 

I added 4 gallons of #100 to what was left in the tank.

To hear the engine run in the garage it sounds fine. Stumbling on boost didn't start until I ran it up and down the driveway and then took out to Hodge road.

I find it odd turbo's don't boost until they are loaded. But I was getting the 5 psi they come set for.

 

you can take a small 12 volt light bulb even a test light conect it to the inj harnes (with inj disconected) crank motor over and you should see a pulse of the light bulb that will verify a sig coming to the inj... they make a light tester called a noid light but dont waste your money for this test they are cheep thought

 

I am guessing here as I haven't worked on one of their systems, but:
Johnnycat, I don't think that method will work on the injector he is talking about as it needs a boost signal to be firing.
I do know on our systems you can take the injector out (plug the hole) and start the RZR. Add a small amount of pressure to the boost signal line and you can see the injector spray fuel. (or Johnnycat's method may work with the pressure added). Be sure to limit the pressure in the boost signal line if you try this.
I am guessing that the RZR has to be running, and have boost pressure to see any fuel from the injector. Depending on the base level for extra fuel, the RPMs may need to be raised. This test may not work at all depending on the programming of the controller.

 

Lets go over a few points and see what you have .........

1st - You did drill out the plug in the throttle body for the 3rd injector didn't you ??
If not - Fuel won't be injected into the air stream. This is for the early style of throttle body. Not an issue for the 2nd gen throttle body's - As the 3rd injector is in the adapter.

When in doubt - Read the instructions. In particulair -- The field guide. (I didn't have instructions as mine was a pre-production kit). So - I can't refer you to any further instructions.

Is your Aero-Commander receiving the the proper injector signal ??

This is covered on page 1 of the field guide about half way down.

My question to you -- Start the engine with the transmission in neutral .. ..

What is your idle RPM ??

Watch your A/F and note the ratio -- Let idle for 2 minutes .. .. Gives the sensor time to heat and give acurate readings ..........

Now - We'll test for the boost signal .. .. And this will be displayed on the Aero-Commander .. ..

Blip the throttle -- What does the Aero-Commander display ??

Compare what you are seeing with the field guide.

I hope you haven't made any changes to the Aero-Commander to this point. Changes should be made only after you have taken the RzR out and have become familiar with the Turbo System.

While you are bliping the throttle also look at the A/F guage. What is the reading ??

A helpful tip on the 3rd injector wiring -- The air intake tube lies over the top of the wiring. Install the injector using the slightest amount of lubricant on the o-ring. Rotate the injector over until it stops - This will give clearance for the wiring and will not come in contact with the air intake.

Also when installing the air intake - Lift up on the tube as it protrudes above the bed while installing the air cleaner. This will also lift the tube off the injector wiring and the fuel rail.

Answer these questions and lets see where you are at .........

Dave

 

didnt think of that...plus was trying to not have it started....hmmm take a vacume hand pump some have a press side to mimik a signal? or the good ol fashin way blow on it (hose attached that is)....lol i dont think id run it for more that a few sec thought.... you guys and the added controller....lol

 

Another helpful tip --

On the boost air line -- If you've used ty-wraps ....... Do not pull tight !! Obviously this will pinch the air line and restrict the boost signal.

Same goes for the boost air line going to the dash guage.

As far as seeing any boost on the dash guage while in your garage running the motor and bliping the throttle -- At best you will only see 1 pound of boost.

Racing fuel -- Not needed at factory boost setting. Run it if you like -- I do on occasion as I can adjust my boost and do so for some measure of safety.

Also only use Unleaded racing fuel - Oxygen sensor will soon fail if using Leaded fuel.

Dave

 

also watch what kind of race gas some of it can swell or eat inj seals and fuel pumps....

 

Another item to check -- --

You had to join the boost signal air line from the Aero-Commander to the throttle body air line - Using a male to male silver air push-on fitting. Make sure that both air lines are held securely by the barbed male end respectfully.

If there is not a tight connection on both air lines using this barbed fitting -- The Aero-Commander will not see the boost signal from the intake and will not apply the proper boost fuel curve - Hence you will be exceedingly lean.

Back to bed - Maybe now I can go to Sleep !!

Dave

 

20 bucks says your fuel pump is marginal..call chad at wasteland and buy his pump..dont listen to other bs about pumps.... that pump rocks and goes in stock location,,,

 

Received the new injector and installed today. Ran up and down driveway, same results. Stumbling and dashes on the A/F gage at boost.

Picked up a fuel pressure gage at good ole Harbor Freight. Only reading 25 psi. I think someone said it should be 38 psi. Anyone know???

They also had an injector test kit containing several lights with injector pin connections. 2 fit my 3rd injector plug and neither one light when the controller signals it's receiving boost :sad: I did verify they light when 12 VDC is applied to them.

I did not see if the other controller would illuminate the test lamp yet, but it exhibited the same stumbling problem at boost so I'm not getting my hopes up.

 

What does Aerocharger say?

 

I've got an e-mail out to Brad. Not sure if he's in town.

Andrew did leave me a message today but with the time difference too late to call him today. Will try in the AM.

The fuel pressure could explain why I'm having trouble with the ratio # across the board.

Not being able to see a signal to the injector also bothers me.

I'd have to replace the pump as Mike said to raise the fuel pressure correct?
Also Mike, do you have a fuel gage still?

 

Told ya. U owe me twenty

 

Mike got it right.
The pressure should be well above 25. That may be the first thing to fix if you trust the gauge.
With any luck it will be the only thing you need to fix. And it is an easy one.
I can tell you that an MCX kit will go lean with under 30 PSI.

 

Yes

 

Yes. On my iPhone at casino call me 209 blow me

 

what you gave up on the Forum Casino?

 

i think id also test it with a good gage not a cheep one but their only off a few psi so sounds low....did yout try to fake a press signal to the controller? see if that kicked in the 3rd inj

 

The kit wasn't cheap, it's actually a nice gage with all kinds of attachments.


- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

I did "fake" the signal to the controller and actually run the engine up, didn't get the test light to flash :sad:

 

just used to my snap on bend me over set....lol

 

Snap On. Now your talking big bucks.

I friend of mine inherited a huge Snap On roll away with everything up to 1 1/2". It was to die for.

 

Dumb question do you have to bleed the fuel rail on a RZR to purge air like you do on some cars, could this cause low presure?

 

That IS a very good question. I have run it quite a bit since hooking up the line but doing some sort of bleeding procedure I have not.

 

its not a return system so it could do that...but it would bleed its self after a few sec of running now the 3rd inj would need some sig to bleed it since it only works under boost... dirt or something could of goten in the line...or could be crushed or kinked someplace too that would lower the press some...

 

When I added a third injector it started working right away... so the air in the line must purge pretty quickly...
I also had to cut the fuel line to put in a tee, so it was empty.... the first start took a few extra cranks, but it fired right up.