Front diff cage breaks because it is plastic and too much torque at once can crack it. This usually happens because someone is jumping in AWD or stuck in a hole at high rpm and then engages AWD. The cage is very easy to replace the whole job including removing the diff from the car can be done in less than an hour. The best replacement is a billet one, these start at $170 and uo depending on manufacturer.

 

How do you know when its broke, what are the symptoms ?

 

I think mine was broke when I bought mine new because my AWD never worked properly. Took it apart and the spague carrier was broke. So I replaced it w/ a stock spague carrier. Broke it again on second ride. Replaced it again w/ the Dragonfire Racing unit and broke it on first ride. Now i've been told the whole front diff needs to be replaced because I have a bad pinion bearing probable and it is a non-servicable part ($960.00).

 

I wouldn't let any of this stop you from buying a RZR or a RZR-4. There are lots of machines that have not had any differential problems. I have had two RZRs with thousands of miles and no problems with the diffs. (even with a turbo that doubles the stock HP).

Knock on wood! LOL

 

X2

No problem at all and I'm in and out of AWD on every ride.

 

Only problem i have had on my RZR is the pinion shaft seal leaking, It was most probably bad from factory as it was missing the keeper spring. However while apart i did change out the plastic cage woth a billet one for insurance, my plastic one was still fine after 1300 miles of rock crawling, trail riding and dunes.

 

We will see how the front diff responds to the Weber power. I usually run my car in 2 WD. I like to slide out the rear around turns.

 

Mine made a popping sound the other day when the front end broke over a muddy,straight up bank (giving it heck!) but AWD still works good, so hopefully i didnt break anything...

 

How and why the front diff breaks?

Because they are made of plastic! :cussing:

I will be buying the best billet cage out there. If it goes, I'll just explode the front diff and get it over with.

 

How should the RZR be transitioned from 2wd to AWD? At a standstill or on the fly while moving?

 

I dont want to sound like your mom but please read the owners manual from cover to cover, I know the manual is very boring to read but it explains the operation and more importantly it also gives you clues throughout the entire manual on what to do and not to do to avoid problems and to get the longest life out of you RZR below is a snip-it from the 2008 manual newer or older manuals might be different so read YOURS
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Engaging AWD
The AWD switch may be turned on or off while the vehicle is moving.

Initially, the vehicle's electronic system will not enable the AWD until
the engine RPM is below 3100. Once enabled, the AWD remains
enabled until the AWD switch is turned off. If the switch is turned off
while the demand drive unit is moving, it will not disengage until the
rear wheels regain traction.

Engage the AWD switch before getting into conditions where front
wheel drive may be needed. If the rear wheels are spinning, release the
throttle before switching to AWD.

CAUTION
Switching to AWD while the rear wheels are spinning may cause severe drive shaft and gearcase damage. Always switch to AWD while the rear wheels have traction or are at rest.

 

Safest way is from a stand still. It will not engage if the rpm is over 3500, you will need to let the rpm drop off before it will send volts to the AWD coil in the front diff. Once it is engaged electrically rpm does not matter, it is now down to mechanical overdriving once rear wheels slip.

 

I am also new to this forum.I have one post & this is my first reply.I have a new rzr 4.Check my post under engines & trans., titled rzr4 sputters,backfires...Still though I would not hesitate to buy another one!I have about 50 miles on it so far and it performs very well.The longer wheelbase seems to be a plus.It handles good size whoops with ease and without bottoming out.In fact it only bottomed out once all day.Full on 60 mph drifts around bends on a nicely graded dirt road felt very controllable.All in all the rzr 4 is a very comfortable ride and even though I never sat in the back all who did said it was roomy and comfortable.Fully loaded with 4 200 lb. adults it outperforms my 09 Teryx!

 

I dont know anything about the front differential on the RZR but I would think the plastic cage is like any other bearing separator its just their to hold the bearings in place, keep them spaced out per design, keep them running true not allowing them to cock side ways, if its breaking the cage I would suspect a design problem, not enough rollers, wrong tolerances, bad lubrication I suspect the cage fails because the rollers are not rolling they are skidding or their is not enough of them, soon as they skid they are going to stress the heck out of the cage, a stronger cage would be the perfect band-aid but I doubt its going to fix any design flaws that make the plastic cage fail.

Having seen the quality Polaris delivers my guess is its a mfg tolerances problem, bearings do all kinds of nasty things when installed outside their design parameters they last a life time if kept inside their properly designed parameters and properly lubricated.

If anybody has another guess to the problem please share.

 

Not everyone received a manual with their RZR

 

Then they need to go back to their dealer and get one I was told every unit was shipped with a owners manual, if you bought a used one and the previous owner didnt give you one I would be buying one they cant cost that much.

 

All Owner's Manual available on Polaris site "Polarisindustries.com", under the Rider's Guide.

 

Polaris did a dis-service to RZR owners by not putting a info sticker next to the AWD switch.
Those of us that have Sportsmans know the switch can be used when moving.
However the switch is next to the throttle and you must take your thumb off the throttle to access the switch.
This eliminates the possiblity of engaging the switch under load.