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Discussion Starter #1
I have a Rugged Radio and intercom that I want to install in my new toy. I have the bracket sold by Rugged.

If anyone has been down this path before me, I'd appreciate your input as to any tips or things to avoid.
 

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Im an electrician and I installed mine in my 2019 turbo s ,install was easy and works perfect.what kind of questions do you have?
 

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I have a 2020 Turbo S 4 and installed mine myself. Am happy to answer any questions. The only issue I had was that the included antenna cable is too short to run the antenna at the back of the rig like I did on my XP1K. I ride in areas with lots of low hanging branches so I try and avoid having the antenna on the roof. Was able to get it to reach to one of the roll bars behind the rear seats and that seems fine as it still is protected. Other than that it is an easy install. Just use colored electricians tape to tape both ends of your comm wires so you know which one is driver vs. passenger. That isn't even a big deal as you can just swap where they are connected on the back of the unit as it is fairly easy to get to. I drilled holes and used grommets and routed my wires all through the center tunnel section so that it looked nice. Just make sure you run your antenna away from any power wires you might be running for anything else. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thank you Jeffster in advance.

Questions:
  • Did you ground your antenna to the frame with a ground strap?
  • Did you install a switch or do you have to turn the comms on with the switch on the front of each unit?
  • Did you install a filter?
  • What size screw did you use to secure the top of the mounting bracket to the glove box opening?
  • Did you secure the radio at the rear or is the mounting bracket enough to hold it?
  • What did you do with the small LED light over the cup holders?
  • Did you connect all the cables to the comm and radio before or after you mounted the radio/comm in the opening?
I'm sure I'll have more as I get into it.
 

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Thank you Jeffster in advance.

Questions:
  • Did you ground your antenna to the frame with a ground strap?
  • Did you install a switch or do you have to turn the comms on with the switch on the front of each unit?
  • Did you install a filter?
  • What size screw did you use to secure the top of the mounting bracket to the glove box opening?
  • Did you secure the radio at the rear or is the mounting bracket enough to hold it?
  • What did you do with the small LED light over the cup holders?
  • Did you connect all the cables to the comm and radio before or after you mounted the radio/comm in the opening?
I'm sure I'll have more as I get into it.
I'll offer up my experience;
  • Did you ground your antenna to the frame with a ground strap? Yes
    • I also ground the radio/intercom to the frame
  • Did you install a switch or do you have to turn the comms on with the switch on the front of each unit? Switch
  • Did you install a filter? Yes
  • What size screw did you use to secure the top of the mounting bracket to the glove box opening? I don't remember (1/4-20 x 0.75" approx), but I used a black bolt, washer and locknut
  • Did you secure the radio at the rear or is the mounting bracket enough to hold it? Bracket holds the equipment good. No extra support needed.
  • What did you do with the small LED light over the cup holders? Zip tied it to the cables behind dash.
  • Did you connect all the cables to the comm and radio before or after you mounted the radio/comm in the opening? I left enough slack to connect to the radio before mounting.
  • Don't forget to route your antenna cable separate from the other cables.
    • I ran the headset cables through the center hull and came out through seat belt openings
    • I ran power on driver side along frame. I suggest getting Rugged's 2-1 Power Cable Adapter.
    • I ran antenna on the passenger side along frame.
It's not hard really. Good luck.
 

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Frazr nailed it, I would have given you the exact same answers except for the switch. I did not use a switch as I am out of space on my dash for switches at the moment as I have a bunch of other stuff using those slots in the center and the left of the steering wheel. I may at some point though if I can free up something. I absolutely had to ground the antenna. I ran it without and I could transmit just fine, but couldn't hear anyone.
 

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I didn’t ground the antenna but need to. Also my exhaust is so loud that when I get on it i get the mic to pic it up.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
2 days into it. OK, I do work slowly and sleep late... So I'd say 12 hours into it.

Routing the power, antenna, and headset cables takes time and was not easy to do. I'm 66 and that could be part of the problem. Borrowing a fish tape was a good idea.

I never did find a good path for the antenna on the passenger side of the car. The power on the driver's side was not much better. I ran the headset cables in the center tunnel and came up through the seat belt holes - nice and clean.

Inserting the faceplate/mounting bracket with the comms installed did not work - had to loosen the i-com from the mounting plate so that the assembly would clear the glove box opening. The bottom lip of the mounting plate wants to be on the inside of the glove box opening. The angle of the dangles just would not line up. Because of that, I then had to reach up and around to re- insert the screws on the "L" brackets to the mounting bracket in order to secure the i-com. Then reach up and tighten the 10mm nuts on the side of the i-com. The good news is that the comms are not going anywhere.

At this point, everything appears to be in working order but I'm left with a bundle (big wad) of wires at the rear of the comms that need to be secured somehow. Securing the filter is my main concern because it is the heaviest component.

I still need to work out what to do with the USB port and LED cup holder light.
 

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Nice job! Yeah I just zip tied that bundle and then secured it up high behind the dash so that it was out of the way. For the light I let it dangle as it provides a nice minimal amount of light down toward the cupholders. For the USB I left it zip tied just enough so that I could easily get to it to do updates, but it is mostly hidden as well. I may do a cleaner install later but was in the middle of relocating due to work so was short on time.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yeah, the switch and filter cables add a lot of inches. I thought about cutting them down but that adds connectors. I think the fewer connectors the better.

I did have the foresight to attach a rubber-insulated wire hanger on the bracket that drops down from the top of the dash: where the glove box originally attaches at the rear. If I can reach it, that will be where I hang the "bundle".

I think I'll take the USB and its grommet and just drill a new hole below the ignition key. It should look factory. As for the LED... meh.
 

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Yeah on my XP1K with PIDD 2.0, I drilled a hole in the glove box and routed the USB cable through that so it was hidden and still easily accessible for updates. I am going to be separated from this new RZR for a little bit, so will give me some time to think about how I want to do it on this one so that it looks clean.
 

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Sounds like you did great. Routing the cables is a process and takes some time to find the right path. What USB are you guys talking about?
 

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The ride command one (or PIDD before that). It just sort of hangs down behind the radio once you remove the center storage box.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Project is complete - was a lot more difficult that I thought it was going to be. I wish I knew then what I know now. Upside is that I could talk with the wife in the Jeep for about 5 miles distance in the city - so happy about that. Crystal clear to boot.

There are a lot of subtle nuances to installing the comms. To write it up will take some effort. I did take some pertinent pix though.

I won't bother doing the write up unless someone asks for it.

For now, I'll just include the pix.
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Putting the easy install face plate was not sl easy either. No instructions or info, kinda run and gun amd figure it out. I added the Comms switch makes it nice, but funny adding the comms switch is not inline with the radio install instruction for running only direct to battery.
 
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