I believe that the accessory post is live when the ignition is on, but the BATT post is not until you run from the battery.

Your Totron is easy to wire. use a Relay and a switch. Run a large gauge wire (10) from the battery to the BATT post on the front block. From the BATT post go to the Hot side of your relay, then the other side to the positive on the light. Run your Ground for the light to the ground post on the distribution block. From the positive block (ACC on) run to your switch. Switch then goes to switch side of your relay. The other side of the switch side of your relay goes to the ground on the distribution block. Make sure that you put a 30 amp fuse between the relay and the battery connection.

As far as where to mount the bar, that is up to you. If you look at FJK's build, he mounted it direct to the aluminum roof and used a grommet to protect the wires where they went through the roof. There are other options out there for Baja Style light bars that you can mount your bar to. Its all personal preference.

 

I thought the post under the hood was only on the 1000s?

Not sure what other options you have planned for the future but a fuse box now that runs straight to the battery migth be easier for future add ons.

I'm suprised it didnt come with a relay and switch, but those are cheap enough, just pick up a waterproof illuminated switch at a parts store and a relay.


Not sure what type of riding you do, but mounting the bar on the roof around here would quickly result in that bar being either scratched, broken or both.

I would mount it to the cage with cage clamps from axia alloy or a similiar mount from UTV inc.

 

They do only come on the 1000's. He just picked up his 1000, so he has the block under the hood.

 

It would help if i would look at the writing instead of the picture in his avatar. Lol. My bad

 

Thanks guys. So 10 ga wire all the way? And switch - needs to be 20 amp? Does the relay have any measure - like amperage or anything?

I ride mostly trails, so if it's on top it will get smacked around a bit. My other was smaller and took a beating but never flinched. I was targeting the cage for just this reason though. Will have to experiment with the clamps I bought with it.

 

Those may work if you modify them slightly as the mounting hole is in the wrong direction. If they dont, let me know, i have a set that will work for you that I designed and made for my light bar but never used. If you want, I will shoot a picture of them for you.

 

I made my own simple bracket out of some 1 1/4 strap so I could use the roof mounting holes and ran the wires thru the cage.

 

This shows how NOT to do it.

The post that the HOT wire is running from runs through the ACC position on the Ignition switch. That means that when your light bar powers up, you are drawing the full current of the light bar through your ignition switch. This is BAD.

The far right post that says "BAT" is where you want to run to. You run the 10ga wire from the battery to this post. Follow my first post. By doing this, you will isolate the lights from your ignition system and prevent it from overloading your ignition switch. At this point you can power your light switch from the ACC of the ignition (using the left two posts) as it will draw far less current than the lights directly. That is why you use a relay.

 

Be sure to use a sealed switch if you ride in the sand dunes at all.
My AutoZone switch lasted 1 day before it quit working.

 

Just a thought...

http://www.rzrforums.net/utv-inc/124510-utv-inc-polaris-rzr-xp-1000-rigid-30-led-light-bar-mounts-oem-cage.html

http://www.rzrforums.net/utv-inc/119057-xp-1000-under-hood-terminal-power-cable-kit.html

Good luck with install. Post up some pics when complete.

(And, you will have to excuse Matt1524... he's all about "pictures", and ignores the text. :rofl3::rofl3: But... he IS good for quality service & killer prices on lights. If, you ever find yourself needing more.)

 

You can mount it just under the front of the roof like this. All you need to do is make a couple of mounts out of 1" flat bar drill a 3/8 hole one one end and 1/4 on the other about 3" apart. You will need to make a little bit of an S bend in it youll see when you look at it. Remove the bolts that hold the cage together 1 at a time and bolt on each bracket the attach the lightbar with the 1/4 allen bolts that currently hold on the factoty mounts.
As far as wiring goes the first one i had i used a relay the next and now my current one a wired directly to the 20amp carling rocker switch. Same as Utv inc and ottaraw sell. I run mine for hours at a time with no problem


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FYI.....they make mounts for the light bar using the factory roof locations....no need to drill anything. Also, run a separate fuse block or direct from the battery for that light.

 

Who makes them and for what bar? Mine cost about $1 and puts the bar in a very well protected position.

 

I used the UTV Inc 30" factory light bar brackets. Was a piece of cake to install.

 

Finally got time to finish the wiring, sorry for the confusion on my earlier post.

 

Looks good but you normally want the fuse close to the battery.

 

OK - here's a crude wiring diagram - please critique it...

 

Yep. That works. There may be some debate on where the fuse goes, but your diagram is good.

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Debate on fuse location - as in, it could go between the battery and the batt terminal on the distribution block?

THANKS for the feedback

 

Yes. I have yet to hear a valid excuse as to why. My boss is an electronics design engineer, so I am going to ask him about best practices when I get back home tonight.

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Is there a way to wire it to my high beam switch without screwing things up??????

 

Yes, tap into the yellow wire on the back of your factory switch to power the relay switch terminal.
That's how I did mine.

 

You run the fuse as close to the battery so it protects the wire in case of a short. If you have a short in the wire ( like wire rubbing on frame until insulation is gone) between the battery and the fuse you will burn that length of wire and possibly your vehicle. So the closer to the battery the safer.


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The distribution block should be fused at the battery. That fuse will protect the block and wire running to it from burning.
You should put a fuse between the block and the equipment your running. As close to the block as possible.


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Updated diagram - shows two fuses in the system now, one by the battery and the other close to the block and between the block and the relay.

Look good?

 

Looks good, but you don't really need a 30a switch if your using a relay. My switch is 10a.

 

That is true. The switch side of the relay is low amp, so a 10a switch is plenty.

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Only 1 fuse is needed, the one closest to the battery.

 

Light bar draws 13amps at 12V... based on this description found on Alibaba.

So probably a 15 amp switch...

 

You wont need a 15 amp. That's what the relay is for. The relay handles the big load, all the switch does is activate the relay with a low amp circuit. My calculations using Wattage were close. I calculated 15 amps.

 

All your switch is running is the relay which won't pull much amperage.

 

As others have said, only 1 fuse needed between the battery and the block. The ACC side of the block is fused with a 20 amp fuse under the drivers seat.

 

Where is everyone getting their 10 AWG fuse holder? I have been to every auto part store in town and all they have is 12 AWG